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C93 and CA94 Review and Questions

7K views 18 replies 8 participants last post by  s0b3 
#1 · (Edited)
Haven't been to the range in a while and took my new C93 and new CA94 out.

The C93
Serial number: the lower the better (two or low three digit is good) - C9301 7XX
Serial number location: should be located on top of receiver, not on mag well - top of receiver
Bolt gap: check bolt gap, so a search on here for details on how to do it - the higher in the acceptable range the better, it WILL shrink - .008 after 200 rounds
Finish: parkerized rifles generally seem to be more likely to be good - parkerized
Flash hider: removable, not welded - removable

It ate 200 rounds of wolf polymer without a hiccup. This is right out of the box. I checked and it was well lubed from the factory. I was surprised that it ran that well right out of the box.

It has the not so pretty welds around the trunion. Not the worst but not pretty. Also it has some grinding around the bottom rib of the mag well, seems many had this done but not sure why. Rear sight spins, really tight but it will spin.

So should I send it back to Century and roll the dice or just get the +4 rollers and call it a day? I'm leaning towards the +4 rollers as it's the cheaper option than sending it back and also I don't want Century to potentially monkey up a working C93. 200 flawless rounds right out of the box is pretty good for me.


The CA94
The CA94 was cleaned and lubed by me as it was a little dry. I ran ok with the BMP mag that came with it and another BMP mag I picked up. It ran ok with factory HK curved and straight 30 rounder. The ATI had a few problems. The mags have to be inserted and rocked a little to lock

The mag release button is still stiff. The mag release button doesn't always want to work and will need the paddle at times.

It had a few empties that got stuck between the bolt face and trigger pack, like it tried to eject it but got stuck while the bolt was traveling forward and it wasn't cleared yet.

It went smoother than I expected and what people said about quality mags are true. Glad I picked up some real HK mags before I went out b/c the ATI one I had didn't work. Also I had to remove a lot of the parkerizing so that they would fit as it was really light.

So are the stuck cases fixable with an HK factory extractor spring? Is the mag release work sending back to TB to work on?
 
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#2 ·
The ATI mags will not lock up in my CA89 of course the HK mags both straight and curved work fine. I've not tweaked the mag catch yet but have no plans to return the gun for such work. BTW the paddle lever on mine is really stiff and the travel is limited.
You need to measure the bolt face since there are a bunch of 9mm CA guns with out of spec bolts. The bolt face should measure around .400" instead of .420" ~ .430". This could be contributing to your ejection problems.
 
#3 ·
it could be several things.........as clicker said, check your bolt face dimension. Make sure the extractor is very tight, check that ejector lever is not interfering with the bolt. Also trigger pack/lower housing fitment & angle. Look at the top of your mag feed lips.....if they are getting banged & bent, that is not good either.
Do a search on this/these topics. You'll find alot of info.
Dj
 
#8 · (Edited)
bolt face is 0.40", my crappy calipers don't give me any more details outside hundredths but seem in spec.
extractor is a little loose, not loose like oregonshooters video when rolling the bolt over will lose the round but pushing on the case with a zip tie will cause it to pop out with a little force.
how do i check the ejector lever?
trigger pack/lower housing fitment and angle, what should i look for here?
mag feed lips look fine.

hopefully the paddle release will break in a little more. scottinthegrove, the spring you compressed was the spring on the mag release button right? the paddle itself doesn't have a spring right?

looks like i'm going to add extractor spring to the shopping list along with the +4 roller.
 
#4 ·
BTW, both my CA 9mm guns had very stiff paddle mag release operation. I found that the spring was a little too strong. I used a pair of vicegrips to squeeze the spring down as small as it would go. That compressed the spring enough that function was much easier. The mags still lock in tight.

Look at the top of your mags. If you see "scuff" marks on the top, the mag catch can be holding the mags too high. I had to take a little off the top of the mag catches so my HK and HK contract mags would lock in and be low enough not to drag on the bolt.

I'm with you, if you have a C93 that runs but has low bolt gap, the easiest thing would be to get the larger diameter rollers. I might have missed it, but I haven't seen a post where someone sent their gun back to Century and it was fixed right. The other alternative is send it to an HK smith and have them reset the barrel at the right bolt gap and repin it. Unless you are going to run thousands of rounds through your C93, the large diameter roller fix should last you your lifetime. Congratulations on your purchases. As posted above, there is a lot of information if you use the search feature. If you get stumped about how to search a topic, please let us know.

Scott
 
#6 ·
I went with the +4 rollers myself and called it a day. Your rear sight drum is tight turning most likely because the elevation is almost all the way down. If you have a set of electrician's needle nose pliers (they have very skinny noses) you can retract the 2 plungers inside of the drum and just unscrew the outer sight drum even 1 or 2 positions and it should then rotate more freely.
 
#7 ·
My C93 has a serial number <150, park finish, nice welds, never an operational problem of any kind, receiver in spec, scope mounts and stocks fit as they should. The only "problem" is that the stock was ugly, and the finish wasn't great - the gun looked rack-worn when I got it - but since everything else is great I really don't care.
 
#9 ·
I am a bit confused with the C93 serial numbers mine does not start with CA I thought Century is C and Coharie Arms is CA so how can a C93 start with a CA ?
I have a recently delivered C93 with C93005xx the Park on mine is more of an OD green than black or grey. Welds seem to be OK. Fired one mag flawlessly but the jury is still out when you only get 1 mag through it. I was not up for much testing with a fever of 103 that did not break till' later today but I did clean it and lube prior to firing, I did not like what it was lubed with it and it smelt nasty. I'll check out how to measure the headspacing and do that tomorow and hopefully fire some more through it . Yes it looks rack worn on the furniture, the flash hider is removeable and I got to see what is the right way to get a supressor on this. Have not even removed the flash hider to see if it's threaded or just a captive pin or C Pin.
 
#11 ·
s0b3,
For now you can re-bend the extractor spring to tighten up the extractor. To check the ejector lever, cycle the action back & forth slowly by hand. Look inside the ejection port & the mag well & notice the "groove" where the ejector rides. Make sure the ejector clears the bolt head & doesn't interfere at all with it. You can slightly bend &/or file the ejector tip for clearance. When you cycle it back by hand, you might notice a slight binding feeling as the bolt goes back......so.....also, lightly file & polish the ejector ramp in the rear. When you cycle it by hand you will feel how much smoother it cycles after you file & polish the ejection ramp. Make sure your lower is paralell to the receiver & that the front of the lower doesn't have much if any up & down movement. Make sure she is very clean & use Colt grease on the rails & also the contact points where the hammer hits the carrier & where the carrier hits the ejection ramp. Hope that helps.
Dj
 
#12 ·
Awesome. Thanks for the tip on rebending the extractor spring. I bent it a little with needle nose pliers and now it holds the round a lot tighter. I checked the ejector lever and it does not interfere with the bolt. The lower is nice and tight.

I do get a slight binding feeling but unsure what part of the ejector ramp to file/polish. Can you post a pic of the part before I mess things up with my dremel, it wouldn't be the first time.

Also for the extractor spring, what's the official way to remove it? I pried it sideways with a small screwdriver and then slipped it out. To put it back in, I had to use needle nose pliers to twist it back into place once I slipped it in sideways.

Looks like my CA94 has been pretty in spec so far. When I bought it I had the expectation that it would need a few tweaks but guess I am lucky so far.
 
#13 ·
sob3,
to remove extractor spring just twist. to install, place the spring in the bolt head the proper way , then place the tip of the extractor spring on a solid verticle surface & push in to seat the spring. The part of the ejection ramp is the "hump" towards the rear. I never use a dremel for that. Hand filing & polishing with a scotch brite pad. Very carefully & little by little with many hand cyclings in between. Assemble your gun but leave the butt stock or butt plate off so you can get a look at the inside from the rear. Slowly hand cycle the carrier & check your/clearance & operation of the relationship of the carrier to the ejection ramp. Just make sure your lower is secure & not moving around when you do this. If you remove too much material, you'll change the "timing" of the ejection & also may not raise the tip of the ejector high enough either. So your main objective is to basically smooth out, de-bur & polish! Hope this helps.
Dj
 
#16 ·
cool so just smooth it out. it won't ever get to a point where it won't ding correct? that's to be expected and normal, we just want the surface to be as smooth as possible to allow the carrier to glide as freely as it can over it right?
 
#17 ·
Haven't been to the range in a while and took my new C93 and new CA94 out.

The C93
Serial number: the lower the better (two or low three digit is good) - C9301 7XX
Serial number location: should be located on top of receiver, not on mag well - top of receiver
I think you need to include the "1" in your serial. You have number 1700+ not 700+. There are 9300xxx serials out there. We know Century bought 33000 kits and I presumed they planned to have 30000 built with 3000(10%) left for spare parts.

Assuming that is correct, it fits the serial number perfectly by having C93 and 5 digits for the 30000 serials. C93xxxxx.
 
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