C93 help
I recently picked up a C93 and had a few small problem's with it. I was hoping that maybe some member's had some easy fix's. My first and main problem is that the action is very difficult to manipulate. I am a small guy so to be sure I had a friend shoot it who had the same complaint. My second issue wich I think is caused bye the first is I have a failure to fire issue with the first round of some mags. The bolt does not move all the way forward to engage the round. Maybe I am loading the mags wrong? But I feel like the problems are related.
How can I make the action smoother and easier to manipulate? I am thinking polish the internals but I am no expert. Thank's.
Check for charging handle gap. Link to how to check. Bolt Gap - Cocking tube gap check for builders and buyers.
Clean it around the lugs in the trunnion. My c93 did have some over spray and grit. I also took off the bolt head off and cleaned out the crappy oil.
I use Tera Gun Lubricant and for me makes a difference.
Always use the HK slap to get it into battery.
It also has gotten smoother after a few trips to the range and cleanings.
I had similar issues with my C93P. I think that the painted bolt carrier just needed to be smoothed out by cycling the bolt. I could see that it was not locking up about half of the time and I would need to push the carrier closed. That's what the serrations on the bolt carrier are for. This was only an issue during the initial release of the charging handle. After a hundred rounds the bolt locks up on every release of the charging handle.
The difficulty charging the pistol was resolved by shortening the cocking extension. In my case, about 3mm. It feels like a factory HK53 now. Sweet. The link above was very useful.
Thank's for the reply's. I am going to break the rifle down clean it up a bit maybe polish up a few spots and grease her up. She only has 100 down the pipe so I will definately give it a few more range trips also. The spacing on the handle seems ok but its a bit tough to pull out. Will give you guys an update afrer I give it a good cleaning and take it out again. Thanks.
How did you shorten the cocking tube, I need to do this but want to do it without breaking welds and redoing it. Did you use a file or something?
I cut it with a bandsaw about one inch from the back end. It took two cuts to get the 3 mm I needed removed. Then I used a 3/8" x 6" bolt to hold the tube straight while I TIG welded the tube back together. Much better operation.
Better listen to the check bolt gap advice before you do any more shooting. Many of these Century guns are poorly assembled and have serious safety issues
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German guns, German girls, German cars, German beer and German dogs.. what's not to like?
The cocking tube is held in by the cocking handle pin.Originally Posted by mwgowin
A few tools you will need:
Small punch and hammer.
Masking tape to protect finish if you are setting it on a bench. I.just hold it in my lap sitting in a chair.
A way to mesure before and after cutting.
File, grinder or other way to make tube shorter.
1. Figure out the gap you have now. You need to be able to lift cocking handle about 1/2" before the tube contacts the carrier. The gap should be about the with of a dime.
2. Remove stock, grip pack and then cock the cocking handle to remove carrier and slide it out of receiver.
3. With the cocking handle in the down position, slide the handle and tube to the rear before the catch notch. Slowly rotate into the notch and look for the pin. The pin on both c93s I have are removed by using a punch from the right side tapping it out to the left. It also holds the cocking handle spring also.
4. Remove handle and spring. Note how the spring tabs fit into slot on the arm. There is also a slot for the other tab to fit into on the cocking tube "head". You will see it better after removal.
5. Slide out tube from receiver.
6. Note slot for spring tab on cocking tube.
7. Remove material (make shorter) by grinding on the end that pushes on the carrier a little at a time. Keep checking OAL. Also keep face square as possible.
8. You should reassemble and test. A trick to the handle spring is to controll the tube with your fingers threw the ejection port. Slide the tube "head" into the support tube, so you can push the spring tab into the cocking tube slot as you put the handle and spring into the cocking tube. Pin will fiish aligning as you drive it back in left to right. The pin is tapered. Small side first.
9. Go slow and remember "gap of a dime".
10. Assemble and disassemble until it is right.
Good luck.
Thanks so much for the guide. I finally was able to pull it apart today after using my adams arms receiver bushing punch to knock the back cap off. It looked like I could just pull the tube out with the use of a punch. I was going to ask because everyone is talking about welding stuff. Then I saw your reply. I will pull the tube out tomorrow and throw it in my lathe. That should make it real easy to measure just how much to take off. I also think after cleaning all the crap off the internals it will work better too. I hosed everything down in WD and I am going to spray it down with simple green and then use WD again before lubing it. I took some video of taking it down with my Gopro 1080p. I had to use an adjustable wrench to turn the bolt to free it from the bolt carrier. Good news is that the bolt itself does not look like it has been ground down on the face at all. After fixing these little issues I will test the bolt gap. Finally, I intend to take some of the stainless bar stock that I have and turn down a one piece krink type brake for the front. My lathe does not do metric to my knowledge so I will have to use a tap. Not a big concern because I can make sure the hole is centered first. That and it is cone shaped so it is not like I will have a baffle strike. Anyone know of a source of a cheap tap that is to spec for the threads? Will update with video later.
Check your threads first. My C-93 has 5/8-24
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