This was one of mine that I picked out of the buffer housing, the other was not much better, a little less like ear wax!
The pics on Greg Bell's website don't work anymore so here is a buffer replacement primer for what it's worth. This is on a 45ACP but I think the 9mm is exactly the same.
The buffer is housed in an assy in the front end of the frame:
I have already removed the two screws that screw together from both sides in this pic, you need two tiny flat head screwdrivers to remove it.
Pull out the two pieces that make up the buffer assy:
Then out of the larger piece remove (what's left) of your buffer however you can. I used a small screwdriver for the big bits and then cleaned the remnants out with bore scrubber and Qtips:
When it's good and clean put the new buffer in. Some people say to trim the new buffer a little bit to make the final reassembly easier. I disagree. I say you should suck it up and have a maximum amount of buffer between you and the potential destruction of the frame of a rare gun. Thus, I put the whole thing in there unedited (one side is tapered to fit properly in the front end of the buffer holder.)
Finally, you have to get the assy back in there and hold it against the pressure of the new stiff buffer while you line up the two tiny screws. This part sucks, and I punctured my thumb with a screwdriver doing it on one of them but it's something you only do once every 30 years so suck it up, will ya?
Hope this helps, shot the P9S 45 immediately after buffer replacement back to back with a P30 today. Damn, that roller locked action makes 45 seem like 9mm!!
I love these things!
How do you know if the buffer is bad? Mine has the consistancy of wax when I poke it with a screw driver. Is it suppose to be more like gell or ? I want to shoot it but I want to make sure this buffer is good to go first.
These are new factory manuals, not copies. I don't know if the seller can get more or not. I called the store and the woman that answered said that the seller had ordered them from one of his distributors.
They also shrink with age so just because your buffer isn't falling apart doesn't mean it's still good. When I bought my pistol, the buffer was in one piece and pliable but I figured that a new one would be cheap insurance. When I got the new one, it was about 1/8" (If I remember correctly) longer than the old one. I would recommend replacing any buffer unless you are 100% sure of its age and condition.
Just wanted to thank everyone for the instructions found here for the P9S Buffer Replacement.
Mine looked like the one "seven.sixtwo" has depicted. I know it had never been replaced since I
bought it new in 1978. Haven't shot it in many years and probably won't shoot it much again.
"Brand new Heckler & Koch Maintenance & Repair Manual / Red Book – HK part # 927869.
This is a Heckler & Koch brand factory manual.
This is an original factory Maintenance & Repair Manual for the HK P9S 9mm pisol.
We ship by First Class Mail for $2.99 or Priority mail for $6.00. Payment by credit card, Paypal and electronic checks are accepted through the eBay owned Paypal system. Please call (781) 826-7544 with any questions. We ship to the United States only - NO exceptions."
Also has a couple of these for sale at $47.98:
Heckler & Koch HK P7 / P7 M8 9mm Factory Maintenance & Repair Manual Red Book
"Brand new Heckler & Koch Maintenance & Repair Manual / Red Book – HK part # 927869.
This is a Heckler & Koch brand factory manual.
This is an original factory Maintenance & Repair Manual for the HK P9S 9mm pisol.
We ship by First Class Mail for $2.99 or Priority mail for $6.00. Payment by credit card, Paypal and electronic checks are accepted through the eBay owned Paypal system. Please call (781) 826-7544 with any questions. We ship to the United States only - NO exceptions."
I just checked with the seller and he says that HK is providing him these P9S Maintenance & Repair manuals in a spiral bound format. THE PICTURE IS WRONG!
The red cover spiral bound manual has "BELEGEXEMPLAR" in the upper right hand corner.
BTW, to anyone wondering "What's the worst that could happen?" I give you this...
I'm already working with H&K and others on getting this fixed. H&K can't fix it for me but they're hopefully getting me some information that will help with the repair work. Already they're doing more than I expected they would considering it's a 30yo gun.
Is your gun a .45 or 9mm? This type of issue is common with the .45 models, when people shoot +P or +P+ in a pistol that was designed before those pressure rounds were available.
It's a 9mm. I've probably put less than 200rds through it. I checked the buffer housing for movement when I bought it. There wasn't even a wiggle so I assumed it was good. I still haven't checked it but, at this point, there's no reason to until I strip it for the repair. There's a similar crack on the other side of the frame. I'm lucky in that I have another P9s to compare it to and I noticed that the top of the rail where the crack is has a squared corner rather than a radius. It looks like it might have been peened down.
As you probably already know from talking with HKI, they no longer have any P9S 9mm receivers for you to replace yours with, but if you check Gunbroker, there has been a completely stripped 9mm receiver for sale for quite some time. Good luck. If you need any help with the disassembly or reassembly, let me know.
I'm resurrecting this thread because I'm trying to replace the buffer in my P9S and I'm having some difficulty.
I was able to get the top buffer housing screw out, but the bottom screw just keeps spinning and I can't get it to come out. I looked at it from the top while turning the screw and I can see a circular screw socket/lug that is spinning with the screw. Problem is, I have no way of keeping that socket/lug from rotating while I back the screw out. I'm starting to wonder if the bottom screw is actually a one-piece screw and socket for the top screw to go into. I already tried pushing it out from the top with a small allen wrench, but the polymer shell of the frame starts to flex outward away from the steel chassis, so I don't think this socket/lug is supposed to be pushed out.
I'm not even sure if the bottom screw needs to be removed completely for the buffer housing to lift out. I tried giving it a tug, but it wouldn't lift out.
You have to have two screw drivers at the same time; one turning one direction on the top, while the other turns the opposite direction on the bottom. Best if you place the frame in a vice or have someone help.
Once you remove the top and bottom screws, you'll need to place the screwdriver sideways in contact with the lugs on top of the buffer housing and pull back. That pressure will allow enough space on the buffer support for you to place a flathead screwdriver at the front of the buffer support and lever it out. Again, a second set of hands is helpful for this step.
Nothing like a little Friday night weapons disassembly.
Once you remove the top and bottom screws, you'll need to place the screwdriver sideways in contact with the lugs on top of the buffer housing and pull back. That pressure will allow enough space on the buffer support for you to place a flathead screwdriver at the front of the buffer support and lever it out. Again, a second set of hands is helpful for this step.
Nothing like a little Friday night weapons disassembly.
When you say "pull back," do you mean towards the rear or front of the gun? I tried pulling it to the rear and lifting the front of the housing and it isn't coming out. Since the opening of the buffer cavity is towards the rear, wouldn't I have to push the housing towards the front of the gun and tilt up the rear?
*update* Got it! The housing just kind of slides forward and up...
You have to have two screw drivers at the same time; one turning one direction on the top, while the other turns the opposite direction on the bottom. Best if you place the frame in a vice or have someone help.
Are the screws timed to release simultaneously and do the screwdrivers need to be turned at the same speed? I have two screwdrivers of perfect size, but the top screw is releasing first, leaving the bottom screw and that free-floating lug spinning and stuck in the frame.
I think I can manage the rest once I get over this little hurdle.
Thank you for the quick response and for always offering your help!
Once you have one screw out, you should be able to push the other one out with a punch. With both removed, the buffer support will be free to be removed.
Still wondering why you didn't come to me first with this? Shameful.
The bottom screw is female, hollow that the top screw goes into. If is spinning free, something is not right it could be split, try light pressure with a very small allen wrench again while you are unscrewing if it does not come out it is split or stripped.
Ahh it all makes sense now. It's not split. I just thought that because it isn't popping out that it was a lug that the top and bottom screw both go into. It sounds like the bottom screw is just caught on the frame somewhere. I'll try again and report back. Thanks.
LOL. I can't help it. I just have to do these things on my own. Even as a kid I wouldn't let a bike mechanic touch my bmx bike or the paintball gun tech touch my paintball guns. Hell, I couldn't have been older than 13 or 14 when I decided to take my dad's rusty .22 rifle and strip and re-blue it. Why let someone else have all the fun?! :biggrin:
I'll have to give it a better poke to see if I can get the screw to pop out. Thanks again James!
Got it. Screw was just hung up on the hole in the polymer shell. Needed to work it a bit more and it finally popped out. Let's give the buffer housing a try next...
I can already see what looks like ear wax crumbles coming out of that area by those lugs. I have faith that I'll be able to get this changed out before tomorrow. I can't wait to shoot this thing with a fresh buffer!
Success. It was a real b**** trying to keep enough pressure on the buffer housing to keep the support from popping out. When the buffer support wouldn't stay seated, the screws could not be aligned. Even if I could get the screws aligned, by the time I tried manipulating the screwdrivers my other fingers would lose strength and the buffer support would pop out again. Probably as frustrating if not more frustrating than the TRS procedure on a USP!
I knew there had to be an easier way, so the light bulb went off and I grabbed this little C-clamp I had in a toolbox to keep downward pressure on the buffer housing. This allowed the support to seat fully without me killing myself to keep pressure on it with my fingers. With the C-clamp doing all the work, my hands were free to align the screws and manipulate the screwdrivers. I used some folded cotton patches to keep the cast steel clamp pads from scuffing the surface of the buffer housing or the bottom of the frame, but having one of those trigger-actuated C-clamps with rubber pads would have been ideal. I was just too lazy to run out and get one. Either way no scratches and the job is done. Can't wait to take it to the range tomorrow for the first time.
I hope by documenting my installation it added to the value of this great and useful thread that seven.sixtwo started!
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
HKPRO Forums
1.9M posts
89.3K members
Since 2000
Actually created in 1999 (the original posts from the first database were lost), we are a forum dedicated to and laser-focused on Heckler & Koch firearms, Heckler & Koch accessories and the owners and enthusiasts that love them! Come join the discussion regarding HK pistols, long arms, NFA arms, HK accessories, HK history and trivia and more.