Hk P7 PSP IWB Options - Milt Sparks VM-2 or Kramer IWB #3 or Other
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Thread: Hk P7 PSP IWB Options - Milt Sparks VM-2 or Kramer IWB #3 or Other

  1. #1
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    Default Hk P7 PSP IWB Options - Milt Sparks VM-2 or Kramer IWB #3 or Other

    I tried to post in the other forum but these was much traffic there. So I moved the thread here.

    I'm looking for a high quality IWB leather holster for my P7 PSP and will probably buy either the Milt Sparks VM-2 or the Kramer IWB #3.

    Anyone ever used both? Please share your experience. The wait time for the VM-2 is 6 months while 2 months for Kramer. Which holster is of better quality, better fit and more secure holding of pistol?

    I noticed the button-on loops on the VM-2 are far apart while the 2 adjustable loops on Kramer are on top of holster. Milts claimes that with far apart button-on loops, the gun sits flatter. Are there any major difference between these 2 designs?

    Also, Milt offers a "Kydex clip" which allow over-the-top concealed carry but they suggest using a gun belt over the clips for support. I am confused how it works.
    Do you think the "Kydex clip" necessary accessories?

    BTW, I'm lean toward horsehide over cohide. I read horsehide is more durable and of high quality. Do I need to get a dedicated leather gun belt to go with my holster or I can use my regular belt? I don't see myself carry it on daily basis.

    Thank you for yoru feedbacks.

  2. #2
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    Double O's Avatar
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    The Kramer is good, but Versa Max is superior because its body hugging design supports and conceals the pistol better.

  3. #3
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    Paddy McWhipsmack's Avatar
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    I'm watching this forum since I bought a P7 recently intending to use it for concealed carry, but Crossbreed doesn't make a holster for the P7 anymore. Gave me an excuse to get a P2000sk.
    Have a Koch and a smile.

    HK P7
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  5. #4
    Gets the Shakes if No HK Contact in 24 Hour Period
    Talon66's Avatar
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    The attachment points for the VM-2 are outboard of the gun, making for a slimmer profile (relatively speaking of course) and distribute the weight more effectively. The #3 loops are where the gun is and attempts to carry the weight at this point as well as creating more thickness (because the belt rides over the loops and the holster). I've found the difference between these two designs to be most noticeable when drawing the weapon, in that the outboard attachment points have a tendency to provide a more consistent draw. They're both of excellent quality but they're two different designs and it'll depend on which one you prefer. The #3 is, for lack of a better word, minimalist?

    The belt is the foundation of your carry equipment. Get a good quality gun belt. The belt width of your holster loops and the width of your belt must be the same to provide a solid point that doesn't move when you draw. If you doubt this, put it on a timer and see what results you get. In addition to this, a good belt/holster interface is much more comfortable. Don't cheap out on your belt. If you're looking at leather belts, I suggest the double layered leather (eg. Milt Sparks, Beltman and other high quality belts).

    I had to chuckle when I read that one had the P7 and was looking for a holster. A friend asked my opinion about getting a good quality holster for his P7. He ordered a beautiful Del Fatti but used his existing garment belt (some cheap belt not intended for gun carry) and had issues with getting a clean draw to the point that he was yanking away at the gun most of the time just to break it free from the holster. When I looked at his gear and realized that his belt and belt loop interface was less than desirable, he took my advice and his troubles went away. I told him, "You bought yourself a high quality pistol and you cheaped out on everything else? WTF?" He was embarrassed but corrected himself in short order.
    Last edited by Talon66; 05-07-2011 at 11:56 PM.
    "Since when was any of this negotiable?"

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