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Thread: G36 Failure to Feed

  1. #11
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    Thanks Dwill, from your avatar it looks like you've got the standard G36 magwell setup. Have you ever had any problems with your rifle trying to feed?

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by bondmid003 View Post
    Thanks Dwill, from your avatar it looks like you've got the standard G36 magwell setup. Have you ever had any problems with your rifle trying to feed?
    I had some problems with my AR magwell conversion, mostly the bolt not locking back on an empty mag, which is not uncommon with the AR magwell conversion. But, feeding has been fine since I swapped to the G36 magwell. The fit of the G36 magwell is exactly the same as the SL8 magwell, so it's designed to work with the gun, unlike the AR well, which is an aftermarket part.
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  3. #13
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    Same experience here with my SL8/G36. Def go with the G36 magwell. Pmags will be out sometime (but I heard months still) so that will help with the costs. But really for the cost of thowing away the rounds you will, just go buy a real g36 mag for the extra $20 bucks.

  4. #14
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    Conversion vets please chime in...doesn't the receiver's internals need to be widened more for G36 mags than AR mags? Example...SL8 converted initially for AR mags would need further work to fit a G36 mag since the AR mag is narrower? Thanks for the input.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Creeping_Death View Post
    Conversion vets please chime in...doesn't the receiver's internals need to be widened more for G36 mags than AR mags? Example...SL8 converted initially for AR mags would need further work to fit a G36 mag since the AR mag is narrower? Thanks for the input.
    I do know for a fact that a G36 magwell would not fit onto an Sl8 receiver modified for a TN/SW AR magwell, it does need more trimming depending on who did it originally. Any more than that I don't know, I just sent the whole thing to Chop to fix!

  6. #16
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    My SL8 started out with the AR magwell and was later converted to the G36 magwell and don't remember any trimming on the receiver other than cutting out the depression on the side for the AR well. You shouldn't have to trim the bottom of the receiver for either magwell.

  7. #17
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    Yeah, the trimming that was needed to fit the G36 magwell was not deeper into the receiver just further back towards the end of the receiver.

  8. #18
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    In order for AR mags to fit a G36 receiver, ONLY the side with the indent block needs to be milled--plus a little bit on the back section.

    For G36 mags to fit, BOTH sides require milling in addition to the back section. If you are converting from AR mags to G36 mags, depending on how much material was removed, it is generally neccessry to remove more in order for G36 mags to fit as they are wider.
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  9. #19
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    Thanks for the tips guys, I'm thinking I'm going to switch to a G36 magwell as my rifle is also having the problem of not locking back on an empty magazine. I almost thought that was how it was supposed to be as I didn't have a frame of reference. I've been shooting AR rifles for years but thought maybe the Germans designed it not to lock back on an empty mag.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by bondmid003 View Post
    Thanks for the tips guys, I'm thinking I'm going to switch to a G36 magwell as my rifle is also having the problem of not locking back on an empty magazine. I almost thought that was how it was supposed to be as I didn't have a frame of reference. I've been shooting AR rifles for years but thought maybe the Germans designed it not to lock back on an empty mag.
    Last round BHO malfunction has less to do with mags (although weak AR mag springs can cause this) and more to do with the fact that when you put a G36 housing on an SL8, it sits approx 1/16" lower than on a factory G36... which is why most people INCORRECTLY open-up the push-pin holes to get it to fit. As a result, the BHO catch also sits 1/16" lower thus not making enough contact with the bolt-head to catch properly.

    You can either trim-up the internal rails of the receiver 1/16" or trim-down 1/16" off the top of the G36 lower. This will allow the housing to sit correct and thus, operate correctly.

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