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Thread: SL8 trigger group install question

  1. #1
    HKPRO PREMIUM PARTNER
    dwillHK's Avatar
    Join Date : Mar 2006
    Location : South FL, USA
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    Default SL8 trigger group install question

    When shooting my SL8/G36 conversion today, I had a lot of problems with the trigger failing to reset after firing. I would have to gently push it from behind to get it to reset. This is a picture of my SL8 internals in my G36 FBI lower. I notice that the rear leg on the left side spring (trigger spring) is on the top of the rod that sticks out of the side of the trigger, while on the right side, the leg of the bolt catch spring is sitting on the bottom of the lower, not on top of the rod on that side. Should it be? The rod sticking out that side seems to imply that it should be, but also the spring leg is toward the outside of the lower not really in line with the recess on the rod, unlike the trigger spring side where it's on the inside, more in line with the recess in the rod that the spring goes on. The setup uses a TN metal trigger and sear, but I didn't see this problem when the parts were originally in a TN lower. TIA.


  2. #2
    Very Senior Member
    CNADNSL8-5's Avatar
    Join Date : Dec 2007
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    The way the springs are is correct. The BHO spring does not sit on the trigger.

    See chopstix kid's post:
    How to convert a G36 lower with SL8 FCG
    SL8/G36 (custom conversion), USC/UMP5 (custom conversion), HK45, P2000 V1, HK78, HKP2A1

  3. #3
    H&K Certified Armorer
    Chopstix Kid's Avatar
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    Location : Michigan
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    I have found that most metal triggers do no return properly with the lighter SL8 trigger spring. Metal triggers seem to fit a bit more snug. As of late whenever I install a metal trigger, I retain the heavier G36 trigger spring.
    Dakota Tactical (07/C2)
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  4. #4
    HKPRO PREMIUM PARTNER
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    Looking in my leftover bag of parts, I have another trigger spring, which looks thicker and is only two loops instead of three as installed. Is that the G36 spring?

    Update: I swapped out the original thin 3 loop trigger spring for the thicker 2 loop spring in my parts bag. I also found a little roughness in the rounded front edge of the metal trigger that swings down into the matching depression in the bottom of the lower, and smoothed it out with a file. It seems to have fixed the issue as the trigger is resetting consistently and there is no longer any hint of drag.

    Thanks to Joe for posting those instructions. Getting the locking lever back in was a major pain, though. The most difficult was getting in the left spring, which has to be compressed somewhat as it goes in between the lever and left side of the receiver.
    Last edited by dwillHK; 06-14-2011 at 12:08 AM.

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