By popular request...


At this point the BHO should move upwards and spring back downwards. If it does not, check the location of the spring against the BHO lever... make sure it is on the RIGHT-SIDE.

The trigger should also operate full-range freely and spring back into position. If not, double check spring placement.

what is the purpose of the second tab on the left of the trigger? If you were to put both springs on the tabs would it increase trigger pull? Or if you were to only use the BHO spring would this decrease trigger pull? Would the Trigger pull be too light and be dangerous?

Hey chopstix, May I post a link to this on a Canadian forum? I have a stickied thread dedicated to the SL8/G36 and this would be helpful.

 

I honestly do not know the purpose of the second post on the trigger (left-side). You can't get the spring to seat correctly on the post anyhow... so why the trigger has a post on both sides, who knows. Even the factory G36 FCG doesn't mount a spring on it. The SL8 FCG has a lighter pull because the right-side spring has less tension.

Feel free to link to it.

 

The right side hammer spring is actually supposed to go all the way down below the axle and is held down by that small wall in the lower right bottom, the left side is held in as pictured by the axle. I dont think it matters much , It will just add a bit more tension on the hammer spring. The last 5 lowers I got in from H&K have come this way from the factory.I also found an easy way to accurately drill the Axle hole on the burst pack lowers is to lay the G36 lower on its side, lay the SL8 lower on top of it and line it up so that you can slide all of the axle pins through both lowers to connect them . This way you know the rear pin hole is in the right spot, then you can line up your drill bit through the SL8 lower and drill through the G36 lower in the correct spot. Its best if you use a drill press to keep it straight. Then just flip it and do the same on the other side. This is an Awesome pictorial, this should really help clear things up for people. Thanks for taking the time to post it.

 

Nice post, Joe!!
(Did you get my SL8 lever, btw?)

I have done the hammer springs on the wall and on the axle and either way works but for some anal reason I like the extra tension in the hammer achieved by putting them on the wall, like in the USC lower.

 

Nice post, Joe!!
(Did you get my SL8 lever, btw?)

Yep, got it... packaged it up the same day but by the time I knew what hit me, it was Xmas... you'll have the stock SL8 levers back this week.

The right side hammer spring is actually supposed to go all the way down below the axle and is held down by that small wall in the lower right bottom

Yep yep, you are correct. Some of the early few I got were like the photo shown as well as a couple of SL8 lowers were like it too. But yeah, all the new stuff is showing up as you said. I guess I just got used to doing it a certain way... you know, the old dog new trick thing, lol.

 

you can see it just behind the BHO and in front of the sear in the pic. I have mine installed under the pin.

 

Who can do remarking selectors?

 

You can. It's very easy. You wash out the old markings with acetone, and then fill the spot in with Devcon Plastic Welder II or some other epoxy. Then, you assemble the lower and mark off where you want the new markings to be.

Find a pin (push pin, safety pin, etc) or a small nail with a diameter of on multimeter, and heat it up on a candle or something. After bandaging your burns, apply the hot pin to the selector to melt a channel like the one you just filled in.

Any material that melts out of the selector is filed down or cut of with a knife, and the channel is painted with a tiny amount of white paint. Correction fluid will work too in a pinch, And there you go, you have remarked the selector!

 

To cut the wall in the lower the easiest way was to use a sharp chisel and slowly cut away the area needed. This made it look very professional without any marks.

Great tutorial!

 

I found a small set of pliers and a file worked equally well, the plastic tears pretty easy and I was able to make a nice square hole in only a few minutes.

 

I realize this is an old thread, but thanks Chop. This allowed my to get the USC back together with only a minor amount of cursing.

%#@%#@%# locking lever.

 

Based on information submitted for US patents on the G36 I found the following information on the trigger spring. The left trigger spring used to disengage the bolt hold open is also designed for increasing trigger return pressure in adverse conditions. The question of the proper placement of the spring had been asked before, but I did not have a definite answer till now. I added colour to the pic to highlight the parts

Under unfriendly environmental conditions (severe frost which allows grease or oil to harden in the weapon, severe fouling by fine sand, etc.) the restoring force of the trigger spring is sometimes no longer sufficient if the spring is designed for a soft trigger. For this reason the trigger springs of military hand firearms have been designed in such manner that their restoring force is still sufficient even under the severe conditions described. This however, reduces the accuracy of the marksman.

In the embodiment of FIGS. 4 through 6, the trigger weight or the restoring force may be selected according to the environmental conditions to be expected or according to the experience of the user.

The trigger arrangement 81 (see FIG. 7) has a trigger spring which, in FIGS. 1-5, is covered by the trigger. It corresponds to the state of the art and is laid out in such manner that the trigger is "soft". In fact, the restoring force of the trigger spring can be extremely light, because the trigger consists of comparatively light material (plastic), so that the mass forces against which the restoring force must act are slight.

In the operating state shown in FIG. 4, the rear shank of the spring 73 rests on the inside of the grip piece 3. The spring 73 lying in this position provides the restoring force, which urges the trigger forward. Thus, the trigger is "soft". This operating state is chosen when favorable environmental conditions are to be expected, or when experienced persons are to use the weapon.

A spring support 79 is located proximate to the rear shank of the spring 73 on the side surface of the portion of the trigger which extends to the safety projection 37. The rear shank of the spring 73 can be deflected upward under force-storing deformation of the spring 73, and be placed on the spring support. This shifting-over can be performed simply, for example, by gripping from above, under the spring shank, with a hook and raising it. Now the spring 73 reinforces the restoring force of the trigger spring (not shown) and the trigger becomes "hard".

This position of the spring shank is shown in FIG. 5. This setting will be chosen in unfavorable environmental conditions, or when the weapon is issued to an inexperienced person, from which there cannot yet be expected a safe handling of the weapon. The desired adjustment can, of course, be made at the factory.

The two adjustments described above (effectiveness of the breechblock barrier and the restoring force acting on the trigger 33) can be made in an extremely short amount of time by an instructed person with the simplest tool. The user of the rifle, however, is not in a position to do this, since there is no handle or anything with which the user might make an adjustment. The rifle is, therefore, always in the adjustment state in which it was issued.

The disengageable breechblock locking described or the switching-on at will of an additional restoring force on the trigger can be performed in common or separately on a weapon which is not equipped with the trigger arrangement according to the invention.

 

Based on information submitted for US patents on the G36 I found the following information on the trigger spring. The left trigger spring used to disengage the bolt hold open is also designed for increasing trigger return pressure in adverse conditions. The question of the proper placement of the spring had been asked before, but I did not have a definite answer till now. I added colour to the pic to highlight the parts

Great addition to this thread!
Even though the pin is notched, have you noticed any difficulty in getting the spring to actually stay on? The pin doesn't stick out far enough and it just doesn't seem stable enough to stay. Anyone try it yet? Maybe I need to go check an actual G36 trigger... maybe the pin is longer?

 

My FCG is set up like the pics in the beginning of the thread. I've got the SL8 and G36 triggers. If I remember I'll try it out.

 

Cool. I've got some G36 FCG's burried in a box somewhere. I'll see what I can find out as well. Side-note, I think Ed omits that left-side peg on his triggers?

 

Just checked (4) G36 triggers. The left-side pin sticks out the same distance as an SL8 trigger.

 

Thanks for the write-up Joe, very well done! 30 minutes and a couple obscenities later, we're rockin and rollin! Now to remark the selectors and I'm good to go.

As for the locking lever, I found what seemed to be a pretty easy way to install both springs. I first pushed the pin in from the left WITHOUT installing the left spring. I then continued your directions to finish installing the other spring. Then I pushed the pin farther to the right so I could squeeze in the left spring with a screw driver and a punch. Pushed the pin back to the left and shazam, done. I found it EXTREMELY difficult to try and line up the pin with the locking lever after installing the first spring per your directions and that by having the locking lever on the pin before installing the springs, I didn't have to wrangle things around as much to line them up.

 

I know this is an old thread but, im just wondering will the SL8 not work with the G36 FCG or is it illegal to have the FCG?

 

Thanks for this man, I have not done one in years and I needed a cheat sheet today!

 

This thread helped me too when I removed and replaced the FCG for a detailed cleaning and a trigger swap.

I know this is an old thread but, im just wondering will the SL8 not work with the G36 FCG or is it illegal to have the FCG?

It's not illegal, but many recommend not using them to play it safe since the ATF makes things up as they go, which may or may not be in your favor if it came to that.

The top of the G36 trigger housing has to have a little material removed to fit into the SL8 receiver (Unless you remove material from the SL8 receiver to fit the slightly taller G36 FCG housing)

You would also need to remove the "auto sear" or hammer actuator found in all G36 trigger packs since the semi auto bolt carrier won't trip it to release the hammer.

 

I'm installing the locking lever (?) and am having trouble properly positioning the spring. I'm a little stumped on the proper positioning of the Bottom leg of the spring (I only have the one left spring).
The top positioning of the spring is clearly shown in the post photo, shown below (again, I only have the left spring). Thanks, and hopefully someone is still following this old thread.

 

Years later and this tutorial was fantastic! As a note, #21 size drill bits were perfect as they are the exact size as the pins. I found the thread below extremely helpful as well for drilling the locking lever pin holes: Need help - HK SL8 Trigger Group Video

 

Yup. Just went through this process myself. Other than fiddling with the disconnect spring more than I wanted, it worked great.