T36 Sear help
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  1. #1
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    Default T36 Sear help

    I've got an FBI Lower w/ SL8 trigger parts installed except for the hammer which is a G36 hammer. The frame is a T36 with a converted SL8 BCG.

    Here's the issue:
    With the SL8 Sear (polymer) and the SL8 hammer, when I charge the weapon, 4 out of 5 times, the sear fails catch the hammer and the hammer falls forward.

    Now, when I install my US made Omega sear (steel) w/ the SL8 hammer, it catches everytime, but the trigger reset is grind-y and sometimes I have to push the trigger forward to reset.

    Currently I have the G36 hammer with the SL8 sear. Trigger pull is not phenomenal but it is reliable. I really like the feel of the SL8 sear and SL8 hammer but I don't trust it.

    Anyone with some input to this is is greatl

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    I'd like to see photos of the fire control group, if possible. I ran an SL8 fire control group in a modified G36 FBI trigger housing, worked great with my converted SL8. When shooting rapid fire, or suppressed, the lighter SL8 trigger return spring wouldn't always reset, so I added the heavier G36 trigger return spring, which corrected the issue, and added a heavier pull which I don't notice much.

    Does your fire control group work with all SL8 parts when tested outside of the weapon, via manually using it, simulating bolt carrier travel by cocking the hammer, etc. Make sure to "catch" the hammer so it's not pounding against the FCG since it would be outside the weapon for this.
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    I will have to get pictures later tonight. When I run the FCG out of the receiver, the hammer catches just fine when I push it with my thumb. Heck with the SL8 Hammer and SL8 sear I love the trigger pull when testing outside the firearm. But when I run it in the gun, it's like the BCG isn't able to push the hammer down for enough for it to catch on the sear. So far the only safe setup that functions the best is the G36 hammer with the SL8 sear. I'm rather confused to say the least. Also the US Made metal sear works, but the trigger reset is just ungly and gritty and sometimes will get stuck on both the G36 and SL8 hammers.

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    And I apologize for posting in the wrong thread. Thank you for moving

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    If the FBI lower is a G36 FCG housing/lower, it must have been modified to fit the T36 receiver (a little material removed on the top). I wonder if not enough material was removed from the G36 FBI fire control group housing/lower, causing it to sit slightly too low against the receiver and in turn the carrier, however, if this was the case I wouldn't think the take down pins would slide all the way through. Since the receiver is a T36 receiver you might want to contact Tom Bostic to see if he has any ideas. I don't have any T36 examples on hand to test with my modified FBI housing with SL8 trigger parts.

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    That's what I thought too. The housing was shaved down to allow it to fit and the pins all fit just fine and tight. So I'm kinda at a loss. I'm guessing it's the sear because when I have the US Sear in, the SL8 hammer works, just the reset is ugly and gritty and I don't have a spare new SL8 sear to test with it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Shrapnel04 View Post
    That's what I thought too. The housing was shaved down to allow it to fit and the pins all fit just fine and tight. So I'm kinda at a loss. I'm guessing it's the sear because when I have the US Sear in, the SL8 hammer works, just the reset is ugly and gritty and I don't have a spare new SL8 sear to test with it.
    Do you have any HK sears? The G36 and SL8 sears are identical as far as I know, however, the SL8 and G36 have different sear springs. The SL8 has a lighter spring. Not sure if that makes any difference in your situation.

    If you don't have any HK G36/SL8 sears, that would be an inexpensive option to try.

    Sear:
    https://www.midwestgunworks.com/page/mgwi/prod/205439

    G36 Sear Spring:
    https://www.midwestgunworks.com/page/mgwi/prod/205421

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    G36 vs SL8 hammers have slightly different in the sear contact notch locations, if I remember right. The bottom SL8 semi carrier rides a little higher than a G36, therefore the hammer does not get pushed back as for the sear to engage the sear properly. I can set these up for you with trigger work, I work G36, UMP's and most other HK rifles and pistols.
    Bill
    triggerwork.net

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    I'm also wondering if I can maybe polish up the US made sear to function a little better since I know that works on the SL8 Hammer

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    Quote Originally Posted by Shrapnel04 View Post
    That's what I thought too. The housing was shaved down to allow it to fit and the pins all fit just fine and tight. So I'm kinda at a loss. I'm guessing it's the sear because when I have the US Sear in, the SL8 hammer works, just the reset is ugly and gritty and I don't have a spare new SL8 sear to test with it.
    I have g36/sl8 sears. Happy to send you one. PM me

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