C93 Problem?!
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    Exclamation C93 Problem?!

    I went to the range today for the first time to shoot my Century Arms C93 that I got September 2018 and I put a magazine in it and pulled the charging handle back and it just clicked. I removed the magazine and then tried to pull the charging handle back and it is locked tight. So there is a unspend round still stuck in the chamber. Anybody ever have this happen with there delayed blowback guns? The rifle when I got it off of Gun Broker was from a highly rated seller. In fact it was that Department Of Defense contracted company that makes machine guns in Chardon, Ohio "Ohio Ordinance Works" which has a store on Gun Broker. The rifle is in great condition with a fancy aftermarket HK black finish on it and everything. All the times I have played around with it pulling the charging handle back it seemed to work just fine. One thing I don't know is noteworthy is that I tried to shoot steel cased .223Rem. 62 grain FMJ Wolf ammo out of it. But it isn't like the rifle was hot and the casing expanded like people have said that steel can do unlike aluminum when in the chamber. I will probably be taking it to my gunsmith eventually but just wanted to hear everyone elses two cents on when you think of it. Please let me know what you think. Especially if you have ever had that happen to you. I was mad as hell. Looked so forward to it then that happened. Didn't get to fire a single round out of it!


    "Yippy Kiyay Motherfu**er!" John Mcclane

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    So round in chamber, cocking lever will not open it? Is it fully extending ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by gulfstategaurd View Post
    So round in chamber, cocking lever will not open it? Is it fully extending ?

    Yeah it is fully extending.


    "Yippy Kiyay Motherfu**er!" John Mcclane

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    This procedure is best done at a range or other safe location, NOT in your house or your back yard.

    Ensure selector is on "Safe" and no magazine in the magwell.

    Take firm grasp on the charging handle and extend it. Place the outer edge of your hand (or the heel of your hand if you prefer) on the charging handle.

    Position rifle, muzzle up, butt approximately 20" from a firm surface. Ensure muzzle is pointing in safe direction at all times. Ensure that you aren't grasping the rifle with your other hand in the path of the charging handle as the bolt is opened.

    Bring rifle forcibly down vertically, striking the butt against the firm surface, at the same time pressing sharply down on the charging handle in a "chopping" motion.

    Inertia will help open the bolt if it's a stuck steel case that didn't go into battery. This won't help you determine why it happened, but may allow you to render the firearm safe to take to your gunsmith.
    Last edited by grumpyoldretiredcop; 02-18-2020 at 03:55 AM.

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    Be REALLY careful clearing it, safety glasses, ears on, keep in mind if it were to AD the using the inertia method the muzzle will be by your face.

    I would suggest removing the buttstock and lower to get the hammer out of the equation, then replace the buttstock if you are going to try that technique.

    As an alternate method I would suggest placing a block of wood on the extended cocking handle and having a freind tap the block with a rubber mallet, (again with lower removed)

    Once its safely cleared we can attempt to trouble shoot your problem

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    Thanks a bunch for the very very helpful tips guys. I will make sure to try those before I take it to a smith.


    "Yippy Kiyay Motherfu**er!" John Mcclane

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    If those don't work, try flooding barrel with Kroil, take trigger group out if you can, replace buttstock... use wooden hardwood dowel and big hammer keeping your hands to the side of the barrel. Tap hard and the whole bullet/bolt should get loosened, remove carrier/bolt, finish removing cartridge, stop using steel case ammo in a probably dry or undersized chamber.

    Quote Originally Posted by John_Mcclane View Post
    Thanks a bunch for the very very helpful tips guys. I will make sure to try those before I take it to a smith.


    "Yippy Kiyay Motherfu**er!" John Mcclane

    George from Alaska

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    Well, I stripped it down to the upper and then I tried tapping the charging handle with a rubber mallet and after a few strikes it knocked it loose. In the not too far distant future when I get around to it I will take it to a gunsmith and I will be sure to repost on here and let all of you know what the problem was once the smith checks it out and fixes it if it needs it. Glad that wasn't the only gun I took with me to the range yesterday. That would have taken the cake otherwise. The other guns I shot were all ones I have bought that up till yesterday were never fired. They were a Gen 3 Glock 17 I got the same day I got that C93 two years ago and the others were a HK45 (which was fun to shoot but still prefer a Model 1911 at least as far as 45ACP's anyway) a Riley Defense AK47 with orange wood furniture that I got for my birthday on the 18th of December which functioned flawlessly with a bunch of different makes of magazines and the gun I enjoyed shooting the most for the first time yesterday that I have wanted to shoot all my life my MP5 clone a PTR-9C which I will maybe go into more on another post to add to someones review of how good the PTR-9C/CT's are. Thank you all very much again for the advice. I will be sure to post on this thread again down the road once a smith sees it.


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    Quote Originally Posted by gsyoung54 View Post
    If those don't work, try flooding barrel with Kroil, take trigger group out if you can, replace buttstock... use wooden hardwood dowel and big hammer keeping your hands to the side of the barrel. Tap hard and the whole bullet/bolt should get loosened, remove carrier/bolt, finish removing cartridge, stop using steel case ammo in a probably dry or undersized chamber.

    Thanks as well for the advice. Yeah I will stay clear of steel cased ammo from now on and just use that in AK platforms only.


    "Yippy Kiyay Motherfu**er!" John Mcclane

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    HK has never recommended the use of steel or aluminum cased (pistol) ammunition... but... I shoot tons of steel and aluminum case in my HK45's but they are a no-go in my P30L's.... they will function in a sparkling clean gun but those cases will be the first to fail to extract if I mix batches of ammo - which I do at the range just 'cause I can.
    Thousands of rounds of cheap Russian steel through my 53 have gone through successfully, I don't shoot my .308's much and haven't tried steel in those.
    I remember when Blazer 9mm absolutely would not work in my German rrMP5 during the 80's-90's but nowadays the same gun and my clones feed anyone's aluminum but don't always like American made steel case 9mm.
    I remember HK in Germany telling me decades ago that the fluted chamber of my MP5, and I assume the rifles, needed the expansion characteristics of flowing brass to work properly. I'm sure you've seen the soot marks on 9 cases from the fluted chamber and have seen brass rifle cases made un-reloadable by HK rifles?
    For range work I'll experiment and be cheap but all of my mags stay stored with spec ammo.

    Quote Originally Posted by John_Mcclane View Post
    Thanks as well for the advice. Yeah I will stay clear of steel cased ammo from now on and just use that in AK platforms only.


    "Yippy Kiyay Motherfu**er!" John Mcclane

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