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Thread: Bolt gap

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by gulfstategaurd View Post
    AGG, Tony is the keeper of the serial numbers for most things HK related. If you send him the serial he might be able to provide you information. Part of challenge with FMP rifles is some were imported as complete rifles, some were imported as complete recievers and built with surplus parts kits. You need to pull the handguard and look at barrel stampings just in front of the trunnion, pull the bolt carrier, it should have a flat area with FMP and likely a date, look at top of bolt head. Then look at actual engraving on the reciever. Does the reciever or barrel have importer markings on them? The import markings on barrel would typically indicate it was imported as complete rifle. The barrel, bolt, carrier markings matching would also indicate a factory built rifle.

    Also verify you posted the correct bolt gap measurement.
    Usually it is expressed as follows (to steal from Dakota Tacticals own post;
    "Shipping spec from the factory:
    Min 0.004"
    Max 0.020"
    Ideal 0.014"

    Recommended "in-service" range:
    Min 0.010"
    Max 0.020"

    Is your gap .025 or is it .0025 as you posted?
    Posted bolt gap is correct. To check that, I verified an empty chamber, fully cocked charging handle, gave it the ‘Hk slap’ and pulled trigger, then measured. Although I don’t have a 0.0005 feel gauge, my guess is 0.0025 because 0.002 was too loose and 0.003 was slightly to tight. I will pull hand cover and check for markings etc.

    This help has been much appreciated.

  2. #12
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    As Dakota tactical pointed out, the barrel will need to be repressed. When you hit that gap it is too far out of safe range.

    The process consist of driving out the barrel pin, pressing the barrel out. Removing the sling eye rivet, heating the triple tree because iijt is suppossed to be sweated to the barrel. Rotate barrel to get a fresh section of barrel for the barrel pin, press the rotated barrel in to achieve correct gap, then reinstall triple tree, etc.

    I would recommend reaching out to one of the established smiths and just bite the bullet instead of wasting time. For that rifle to be that far outside the normal operating range you want a professional set of eyes on it.

  3. #13
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    Happen to know a fair priced smith (specialized in HK and relatives) that can do such a thing?

    Thanks

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  5. #14
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    I would reach out to Dakota Tactical to ask him if he can book you and his pricing.

    Then work your way through some of the others but also check their feedback here and elsewhere by doing some web searches. Not everyone is going to satisfy every client but if you see a trail of angry and enraged customers posts you at least can assume that builder may be one to avoid.

    I have not seen if Ghillie is back at work yet after his injury but check in with PCS to see and compare.

    Ask them if they feel a refinish might be needed or not. That would add to the price but if you do not have the paddle mag release installed and if you want the G3 triple tree with grenade rings and your rifle does not have it, this would be a great time to consider getting them done as well as a fresh finish on the rifle. For a FMP rifle it should be an investment into bringing it back to its market value.

  6. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by gulfstategaurd View Post
    I would reach out to Dakota Tactical to ask him if he can book you and his pricing.

    Then work your way through some of the others but also check their feedback here and elsewhere by doing some web searches. Not everyone is going to satisfy every client but if you see a trail of angry and enraged customers posts you at least can assume that builder may be one to avoid.

    I have not seen if Ghillie is back at work yet after his injury but check in with PCS to see and compare.

    Ask them if they feel a refinish might be needed or not. That would add to the price but if you do not have the paddle mag release installed and if you want the G3 triple tree with grenade rings and your rifle does not have it, this would be a great time to consider getting them done as well as a fresh finish on the rifle. For a FMP rifle it should be an investment into bringing it back to its market value.
    As of right now, I’m taking it to a local guy about 10 minutes away, Hk Gunsmiths. I’m going to have him look it over and give me my options, etc. might do as you suggested and just have it refinished because it’s a little rough. I appreciate the help though! I didn’t think this forum would be so helpful but I was wrong. Definitely need to do more research as well.

  7. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dev70 View Post
    That hurts to Read that. Hopefully that isn’t too costly. Maybe I’ll start with some rollers and a new locking piece since that’s cheap enough. Will report with results. Thanks though!
    Small bolt gaps are not dangerous unless you are fighting... they can cause the gun to short stroke since it takes more energy to cycle a gun with a smaller gap. Foreign ammo often times runs hot so small gaps a not an issue. In fact, it will tame the gun.

    Go to the range and pop off a few rounds. If the brass launches 10 feet away, you're likely fine (with THAT particular ammo). If the gun short strokes and jams the next round, the ammo too weak for the gap. Don't force it. Jam a G3 enough going into battery and you'll get roller dimples up front.
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  8. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chopstix Kid View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Dev70 View Post
    That hurts to Read that. Hopefully that isn’t too costly. Maybe I’ll start with some rollers and a new locking piece since that’s cheap enough. Will report with results. Thanks though!
    Small bolt gaps are not dangerous unless you are fighting... they can cause the gun to short stroke since it takes more energy to cycle a gun with a smaller gap. Foreign ammo often times runs hot so small gaps a not an issue. In fact, it will tame the gun.

    Go to the range and pop off a few rounds. If the brass launches 10 feet away, you're likely fine (with THAT particular ammo). If the gun short strokes and jams the next round, the ammo too weak for the gap. Don't force it. Jam a G3 enough going into battery and you'll get roller dimples up front.
    It jams at least one or twice in a full mag. Ejected casings have the neck smashed down, nice dent on the body of the casing. It’s unsafe to shoot. Hopefully I can figure something out today at the gunsmith.

  9. #18
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    I wish I would have done my research a little better on this gun before buying. Still happy with my purchase but I think I could have paid less knowing what I know now.

  10. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dev70 View Post
    It jams at least one or twice in a full mag. Ejected casings have the neck smashed down, nice dent on the body of the casing. It’s unsafe to shoot. Hopefully I can figure something out today at the gunsmith.
    Hold up... dented neck and dented casing is 100% normal on a G3. The dented case is from the ejection and the side of the case hitting the back of the ejection port (normal). The smashed neck is from the spinning motion of the spent casing hitting the receiver before it clear away (normal).

    I would check the extractor for debris and chips as well as the extractor spring (loose extractor). DO NOT OVER LUBE THE GUN. These gun favor being run relatively dry. Make sure the recoil rod is clean and not gummy from grease/oil. Outside of that, some +8 rollers will get you to about 0.010" bolt gap which may help. I personally do not like using rollers over +4 size but it is what it is.

  11. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chopstix Kid View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Dev70 View Post
    It jams at least one or twice in a full mag. Ejected casings have the neck smashed down, nice dent on the body of the casing. It’s unsafe to shoot. Hopefully I can figure something out today at the gunsmith.
    Hold up... dented neck and dented casing is 100% normal on a G3. The dented case is from the ejection and the side of the case hitting the back of the ejection port (normal). The smashed neck is from the spinning motion of the spent casing hitting the receiver before it clear away (normal).

    I would check the extractor for debris and chips as well as the extractor spring (loose extractor). DO NOT OVER LUBE THE GUN. These gun favor being run relatively dry. Make sure the recoil rod is clean and not gummy from grease/oil. Outside of that, some +8 rollers will get you to about 0.010" bolt gap which may help. I personally do not like using rollers over +4 size but it is what it is.
    So the very end of the neck being even smashed is normal? Nice ding/dent on middle of casing body is normal? What about groves around casing?

    And I think my ejector is too loose then, I can get a slight wobble out of it. Maybe that explains the FTE.

    Also, what Lube is recommended for these guns then?

    Also after a tear down, I found out it has +6 rollers already...I’ll see what the gunsmith has to say in a few hours.

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