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  1. #21
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    Those lines down the casing is from the fluting in the chamber, 100% normal.

    These are notoriously hard on brass.

    It is very easy to damage/bend the extractor spring if you do not use the correct method to remove and replace. Use a pick or other tool to rotate along the axis the spring pawl from the dish of the extractor, DO NOT PRY IT. Once rotated it will slide forward and clear of the bolt head, then lift your extractor off, clean and check for wear and damage. Reverse the process to replace with a new spring. Always recommended to buy a spare spring since it is a wear item on these.

    If you have +6 in there now that poor rifle has been milked and prodded along long enough. Its time for repressing.
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  2. #22
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    These have been sitting around for a number of years so they’re a little tarnished.

    Bolt gap-9d6ddfd4-f3e0-4d35-b713-5483734df786.jpeg
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  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by 21HK View Post
    These have been sitting around for a number of years so they’re a little tarnished.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Looks like mine except the very tip of my casings are smashed in, not the neck.

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  5. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by gulfstategaurd View Post
    Those lines down the casing is from the fluting in the chamber, 100% normal.

    These are notoriously hard on brass.

    It is very easy to damage/bend the extractor spring if you do not use the correct method to remove and replace. Use a pick or other tool to rotate along the axis the spring pawl from the dish of the extractor, DO NOT PRY IT. Once rotated it will slide forward and clear of the bolt head, then lift your extractor off, clean and check for wear and damage. Reverse the process to replace with a new spring. Always recommended to buy a spare spring since it is a wear item on these.

    If you have +6 in there now that poor rifle has been milked and prodded along long enough. Its time for repressing.
    I’ll have to do this. And yeah, I think imma go ahead and have the barrel repressed

  6. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dev70 View Post
    So the very end of the neck being even smashed is normal? Nice ding/dent on middle of casing body is normal? What about groves around casing?

    And I think my ejector is too loose then, I can get a slight wobble out of it. Maybe that explains the FTE.

    Also, what Lube is recommended for these guns then?

    Also after a tear down, I found out it has +6 rollers already...I’ll see what the gunsmith has to say in a few hours.
    In order of your questions:

    --Normal / Normal / Normal
    --Loose extractor = needs new spring = will cause extraction issues
    --Roller-locks are meant to be run relatively dry. Dry lubricant on the recoil rod (we use remoil). Weapons grease/FireClean on the bolt carrier rail channel and on the receiver rails. Same on the shoulders of the LP. That's really about it.
    -- +6 rollers and your gap is 0.0025" yeah, the gun has been shot a ton and/or poorly maintained. Might even need to new barrel.
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  7. #26
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    If the is Hk91 or G3 style...bolt gap spec by HK and for all others is .008mm to .020mm with .014 to .016mm being excellent. But the person above stating barrel replacement or repress to correct the lack of gap, is 100% correct and this low a bolt gap reading is indicative of a well worn rifle.

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