Barrel removal in a P7
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Thread: Barrel removal in a P7

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    Default Barrel removal in a P7

    Anyone have a tool or know of a method for getting a barrel in and out of the PSP series of pistols.

    Bought a suppressor for a P7 and I'd like to get the threaded barrel in the gun.

    Any advice on the method or tool I might be able to find?

    Thanks,
    Wes

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    From what I have read, not even US based HK factory can do it, has to be sent back to Oberndorf. Require some serious hardware to pull the barrel

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    I looked into this a few years ago to try and suppress one of my P7s. I found out basically what wulkyrie posted. Things may have changed, but it was going to be a pretty big deal.

    Also, most guys that had done it seemed to be disappointed with the amount of sound suppression on the P7 compared to their other 9mms.

    Good luck with the project, let us know how it turns out.

    BTW, there is threaded M8 on gunbroker right now. You may be able to contact the seller to find out what they had to do.
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    Quote Originally Posted by wulkyrie View Post
    From what I have read, not even US based HK factory can do it, has to be sent back to Oberndorf. Require some serious hardware to pull the barrel
    According to the P7M13 armorer's manual, the only tools needed are something to hammer the old barrel out with (they recommend an old barrel and hammer), a vise or block of wood, and a pin punch to drive out the retaining roll pin.

    "9. Barrel Replacement

    Barrels of H&K Pistols P7M13 may be replaced by direct support maintenance units, or by HK, Inc. in the case of commercial models. To disassemble the barrel from the receiver, the slide stop/disconnector pin (Part 59, Figure 3) is drifted out and the barrel is removed by driving out the barrel with another old salvaged barrel and a hammer. To place a new barrel on the receiver, align the notch in the barrel with the extractor notch in the receiver, place the pistol in a vice with its parts protected by cloth (Figure 21), press the barrel into place so that the slide stop/disconnector pin hole in both the barrel and receiver are aligned, and insert the slide stop/disconnector pin. In leiu of a vice, a block of wook and a hammer may be used to drive the barrel into place so that the slide stop/disconnector pin hole in both the barrel and receiver are aligned. The insertion of the slide stop/disconnector pin automatically sets the required headspace for the barrel as well as aligning the extractor with the slide."
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    interesting... Thanks.

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    MLSECPRO that used to be on this forum used to do it so i know it can be done in the states.

    i would think the biggest problem to look for is a correctly aligned gas port in the bottom of the barrel. but indexing the barrel to the extractor slot should take care of that.

    i was thinking about getting some old HK94 barrel stubs and turning them into threaded and ported HKp7 barrels on my lathe, but i was'nt sure how different the P7's chamber fluting is to the 94's. i just havent had a chance to compare the two, maby someday.
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    Default Don't waist your time

    Quote Originally Posted by AviatorDave View Post
    According to the P7M13 armorer's manual, the only tools needed are something to hammer the old barrel out with (they recommend an old barrel and hammer), a vise or block of wood, and a pin punch to drive out the retaining roll pin.

    "9. Barrel Replacement

    Barrels of H&K Pistols P7M13 may be replaced by direct support maintenance units, or by HK, Inc. in the case of commercial models. To disassemble the barrel from the receiver, the slide stop/disconnector pin (Part 59, Figure 3) is drifted out and the barrel is removed by driving out the barrel with another old salvaged barrel and a hammer. To place a new barrel on the receiver, align the notch in the barrel with the extractor notch in the receiver, place the pistol in a vice with its parts protected by cloth (Figure 21), press the barrel into place so that the slide stop/disconnector pin hole in both the barrel and receiver are aligned, and insert the slide stop/disconnector pin. In leiu of a vice, a block of wook and a hammer may be used to drive the barrel into place so that the slide stop/disconnector pin hole in both the barrel and receiver are aligned. The insertion of the slide stop/disconnector pin automatically sets the required headspace for the barrel as well as aligning the extractor with the slide."
    Dave:
    These directions are minimal at best I can assure you and should not be followed. I have removed and reinstalled P7 barrels numerous times with HK fixtures and presses. Using these directions one will learn quickly that aligning both the pin hole and the gas port is difficult to near impossible. The barrel fits so tightly that it cannot be rotated once pressed in and if you don't have a well made holding fixture you can crack the barrel shroud and/or damage the frame. Not everything that is found in HK literature is good guidence, especially in the old "red books".

    P7's don't suppress well. The fixed barrel is a plus. The gas retardation is not. LOTS of gas and debris blow-back to the point of being unshootable. I shot one made by HK GmbH with an MP5SD can attached. We did some special P7M13 samples with AAC years back for a customer. Looked cool but no one was impressed - you betetr have googles on and a face mask with some ammo. Not worth the time or effort. The P9S Target was a FAR SUPERIOR suppressed platform.

    G3Kurz

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    Aw, come on. You don't need all those fancy tools to get your P7 barrel out. Just lay it on a cinder block and whack on the barrel with the end of a brick a few times. Or maybe a piece of driftwood you were going to make into a table some day. It'll pop right out of there. :)

    But that manual does have some missing pages - it references Figure 21, but there is no Figure 21.

    So definitely take those instructions with a grain of salt. But there are lots of things I manage to get done that aren't recommended, only because nobody told me you weren't supposed to do it. Then again, I'd probably try it even if they said not to, I'm pretty stubborn like that. Case in point - the burst pack. I'd read that "only an HK armorer should attempt further disassembly" or something like that. So naturally I reached for a punch and started pushing all the pins out until I had the while thing taken completely apart. The other fun one was the 21E belt mechanism. Getting the springs to stay inside the roller arm when the shaft went through was AWESOMELY FUN! But I figured it out.

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    Quote Originally Posted by AviatorDave View Post
    The other fun one was the 21E belt mechanism. Getting the springs to stay inside the roller arm when the shaft went through was AWESOMELY FUN! But I figured it out.

    :):):) yeah they are pretty fun to play guess which clamping sleeve go's where with :)

    even worse try MFG. it!!! if i want to turn one out on my mill i gotta dump 3500$ on an indexer. or i could spend the time to make 15 more jigs :(

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    AviatorDave Says:
    Aw, come on. You don't need all those fancy tools to get your P7 barrel out. Just lay it on a cinder block and whack on the barrel with the end of a brick a few times. Or maybe a piece of driftwood you were going to make into a table some day. It'll pop right out of there.

    G3Kurz responds:
    PLEASE POST PHOTOS OF THE BEFORE AND AFTER! :)
    Last edited by G3Kurz; 07-17-2009 at 12:03 PM. Reason: ad

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