G3 wood stock disassembly - Page 2
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Thread: G3 wood stock disassembly

  1. #11
    pof
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    I want to do this for my mp5 badly

  2. #12
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    One has to in order to access the rear screw on the buffer.

    DG
    I fix the radar you'all try to stay under...

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Green57 View Post
    TacticalBeard,

    That appears to be the makers mark stamped into the end of the stock, but I don't know who the company is. Not even sure anybody has ever done any research into what companies made the wood for the early rifles.

    Do Not sand that stock if you don't have too and do NOT clear coat that wood stock. Do a search on how to refinish a stock using an oil finish. Tung, linseed, or whatever, there are a few out there. Read and decide which one you want to use. Just no clear coat.

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    From the man himself...

    Good skill with the restoration of your stock.

    G57
    Thanks for an idea on what the mark was. I don’t need to sand it the woods in very nice condition only very minor dings. I’ll look more into oils you’ve mentioned but why not just clear coat it with some kind of clear coat gun finish?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Callahan View Post
    I just picked up a set of wood furniture for my G3 a couple of weeks ago. Haven't even tried to put it on yet. I'm curious as to why you wanted to remove the butt pad?
    There’s another screw that holds the assembly together that’s only accessible from inside the stock. I took all the original metal off to get only the wood and put it on my allready cerakoted PTR metal

    Just so happens 60ish year old things can get pretty stuck together over time and it took a lot of work to get it apart

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    Quote Originally Posted by TacticalBeard View Post
    There’s another screw that holds the assembly together that’s only accessible from inside the stock. I took all the original metal off to get only the wood and put it on my allready cerakoted PTR metal

    Just so happens 60ish year old things can get pretty stuck together over time and it took a lot of work to get it apart
    Thanks for the explanation.
    If "Dirty Harry" had been made in 1996:
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    Tacticalbeard,

    The short and sweet, normal clear coats are not as durable as an oil finish. A clear coat will normally just dry on top of the wood and can crack and chip if it gets banged around and is much harder to touch up. An oil finish gets absorbed into the wood and provides better protection and is easier to touch up. If your clear coat is to glossy it will not look correct on a military inspired rifle, an oil finish will.

    There is a lot to learn, but there are many good tutorials on how to finish a wood stock on the web. Just read a few and you will know which direction you want to go and which oil you want to use.

    G57

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    I like the tung oil, keep in mind linseed oil is house paint without the pigment.

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    Quote Originally Posted by barrington View Post
    I like the tung oil, keep in mind linseed oil is house paint without the pigment.
    And house paint has proven durable for decades, what's your point?
    BTW, boiled linseed oil isn't raw linseed oil. There's a difference.
    I don't "run" my guns or "run" anything on them. Likewise, none of my guns are "platforms". I hold them up, not the other way around.

  10. #19
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    Our Southern Arizona Summers make linseed oiled gun wood sticky to the touch.

    Tung works pretty well.

    DG

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