HK G3 blot gap help
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Thread: HK G3 blot gap help

  1. #1
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    Default HK G3 blot gap help

    Hi guys

    Recently i have bought HK G3SG/1 (there are some left ones in Europe) and i have some question.
    I know that bolt gap should be somewhere between 0,10-0,50 millimeters. However it looks like in my gun might be 0,00

    Here are photos
    Attachment 232934
    HK G3 blot gap help-img_20190518_203917.jpgClick image for larger version. 

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    HK G3 blot gap help-img_20190518_203928.jpg


    Best regards

  2. #2
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    Conelrad's Avatar
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    I see a gap that looks fairly good. The only way to tell is to stick a flat feeler gauge in there and check it.

    Dennis
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  3. #3
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    As said above, check with a feeler gauge. Release the bolt and let slam home, drop the hammer, then insert feeler gauge, it should fit without forcing.

    Looking at your bolt it has seen hard service, looks like pitting that was cleaned up. Disassemble your bolt and examine your locking peice. Your parts may have excessive wear, particularly your locking peice and that can change your bolt gap. If your gap does measure too small and you do not have excessive wear on your locking peice you can change your rollers out for a different size to adjust the gap. If it is too far out of specifications you might need to have a gun smith reset the barrel or possibly replace the barrel.

    I would start with disassembly and examining the wear.
    With the wear you might want to look for a set of internals that have more service life left in them.

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    Thanks for feedback guys.

    It has seen some action i'm sure. This is ex Italian Carabinieri rifle made in 1974.

    I will post more photos later after disassembling.

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    Look forward to pics of the whole rifle as well. I hope it still has its SG1 lower.

    Nearly forgot, good idea to get a new bolt latch spring, recoil spring, and firing spring. The bolt latch spring being probably the most important to keep it running nice. The springs lose their qualities over time and fresh ones will limit malfunctions.
    Last edited by gulfstategaurd; 05-20-2019 at 08:52 PM.

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    @Legion343 Glad you found source of all roller locking knowledge, that I pointed you towards :)
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  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Montrala View Post
    @Legion343 Glad you found source of all roller locking knowledge, that I pointed you towards :)
    Thanks

    For rest i post more photos. I had to remove adjustable cheek-piece in order to use iron sights.
    HK G3 blot gap help-img_20190521_180006.jpg

    HK G3 blot gap help-img_20190518_154612.jpg


    HK G3 blot gap help-img_20190521_175927.jpg

    HK G3 blot gap help-img_20190521_175955.jpg


    I have measured gap and it has sth about 0,05 millimeters. 0,10 flat feeler gauge won't go inside.

  9. #8
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    I would thoroughly clean the surface rust off your locking peice, romove the roller plate and rollers by using the correct drift pin to push the roller pin down into the bolt interior, that will let you slide the roller plate and rollers out the side of the bolt. disassemble the extractor (careful not to bend the spring) by rotating front end of the spring slightly and pushing the rear forward. Then you can soak the parts in a good penetrating rust solution and thoroughly clean them.

    With the rust that is present examine the locking peice with idea that it is an important part of the reliable cycling of the bolt and it may be worth replacing it. Once you have the roller plate out of the bolt, they are cheap so it it or the rollers have rust or damage then replace them as well. The bolt head is probably serviceable once cleaned up but you might want to set it aside and look for a better condition one.

    I would highly recommend replacing all springs with fresh ones, old springs (45 years old in that one possibly) lose their strength and can create reliability problems.
    Recoil spring, bolt latch spring, extractor spring, ejector spring, firing pin spring, there are a few more in the trigger pack as well (the ejector spring is there too.)
    While you have the extractor out of the bolt examine for damage or wear and replace if necessary.

    Try to get a light in the chamber and trunnion, your bolt had moisture water in it enough to rust and pit those parts, you want to be sure your flutes in the chamber are clean and in good shape and there is no rust on the locking area of the trunnion.

    After cleaning, inspecting and reassembly then I would recheck bolt gap. The rust could have given a false reading, and definitely check the gap again if you change out bolt carrier parts.

    Make sure you look for rust and debris in your SG1 trigger pack. Those are excellent trigger units once you set the trigger but if you have the same neglect that occurred with your bolbt it may need maintenance to get it running smoothly again.

    Does that SG1 stock have the heavy buffer or the standard G3 buffer in it. If it has the standard buffer consider swapping out the stock and getting one you can put an MSG90, or heavy buffer in. The HK21 rubber buttpad is also a really nice upgrade to the rifle. They will make firing the rifle much more enjoyable for you.

    I am adding a link to an explanation of roler sizes, how to disassemble the bolt as well. Also adjusting bolt gap.

    https://images.app.goo.gl/xtBYmfCzRH7QFhL3A

    GREAT RIFLE BY THE WAY!
    Last edited by gulfstategaurd; 05-21-2019 at 09:10 PM.

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by gulfstategaurd View Post
    I would thoroughly clean the surface rust off your locking peice, romove the roller plate and rollers by using the correct drift pin to push the roller pin down into the bolt interior, that will let you slide the roller plate and rollers out the side of the bolt. disassemble the extractor (careful not to bend the spring) by rotating front end of the spring slightly and pushing the rear forward. Then you can soak the parts in a good penetrating rust solution and thoroughly clean them.

    With the rust that is present examine the locking peice with idea that it is an important part of the reliable cycling of the bolt and it may be worth replacing it. Once you have the roller plate out of the bolt, they are cheap so it it or the rollers have rust or damage then replace them as well. The bolt head is probably serviceable once cleaned up but you might want to set it aside and look for a better condition one.

    I would highly recommend replacing all springs with fresh ones, old springs (45 years old in that one possibly) lose their strength and can create reliability problems.
    Recoil spring, bolt latch spring, extractor spring, ejector spring, firing pin spring, there are a few more in the trigger pack as well (the ejector spring is there too.)
    While you have the extractor out of the bolt examine for damage or wear and replace if necessary.

    Try to get a light in the chamber and trunnion, your bolt had moisture water in it enough to rust and pit those parts, you want to be sure your flutes in the chamber are clean and in good shape and there is no rust on the locking area of the trunnion.

    After cleaning, inspecting and reassembly then I would recheck bolt gap. The rust could have given a false reading, and definitely check the gap again if you change out bolt carrier parts.

    Make sure you look for rust and debris in your SG1 trigger pack. Those are excellent trigger units once you set the trigger but if you have the same neglect that occurred with your bolbt it may need maintenance to get it running smoothly again.

    Does that SG1 stock have the heavy buffer or the standard G3 buffer in it. If it has the standard buffer consider swapping out the stock and getting one you can put an MSG90, or heavy buffer in. The HK21 rubber buttpad is also a really nice upgrade to the rifle. They will make firing the rifle much more enjoyable for you.

    I am adding a link to an explanation of roler sizes, how to disassemble the bolt as well. Also adjusting bolt gap.

    https://images.app.goo.gl/xtBYmfCzRH7QFhL3A

    GREAT RIFLE BY THE WAY!
    Thanks for advice.

    I did cleaned locking peace as best as i could and it looks fine. For rollers i think i have to buy a new set +2 or +4 but in EU these one are really hard to find (i know their German markings). For springs i will take it into consideration.
    The flutes look fine although it is hard to inspect them via receiver.

    About stock well i don't know. I would have too disassemble stock

    Thanks it is good let's say icon.

  11. #10
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    Take a picture of the end of the buffer in the backplate. That will show which buffer it is. No need to disassemble (actually it is nearly impossible to get a buffer out of an SG1 stock because of the cheek riser thimbles for the screws.

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