HK trigger options
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Thread: HK trigger options

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    Default HK trigger options

    It comes up from time to time, so I thought I'd get a thread going about the various trigger upgrades. Hoping a fellow member or two might be able to chime in on the options that I have no experience with.

    First up we have the trigger job by Bill Springfield. I have one of these units, and its probably the best bang for your buck in terms of upgrades. It's a standard G3 style trigger, that has been tuned and lightened. Grittiness and creep is all but eliminated (just a smidge remains), and the break is crisp. Pull weight is reduced to 4.5 - 4.75 lbs. I didn't send a unit out to Mr. Springfield to modify, I purchased a pre-done trigger unit complete. Some folks have had issues of late with his work (haven't seen any reported problems with HK roller lock triggers though), but as far as I know those issues have been rectified and things are back on course. I note that just for the reader's sake, and the reader should review and make up their own mind. Personally, I am happy with mine.
    Bill Springfield - www.TriggerWork.net

    Next up is Williams Trigger Specialties. Williams offers standard trigger jobs (which I have no experience with) and set trigger units (which I own). The Williams set trigger is a joy. In normal semi-auto mode, there is less take-up than Springfield's, zero creep as far as I can tell, and the break is just as good, if not better. Pull weight is about 4 lbs, but feels lighter as I have the "contoured straight trigger" which provides additional leverage. The contoured trigger is easy to modify (15 minutes with a Dremel) to accept a PSG1/MSG90 trigger shoe -- an add on which really does make a difference in feel, much to my surprise. In set mode, it shines. Set mode is accomplished by moving the selector to a point mid-way between safe and fire. Then one pulls the trigger and gets a click, but no bang. Then move the selector to fire - and you find a nice light 3lb pull. Take up is the same as in normal mode, again I cannot detect any creep, but the change in pull weigh is quite noticable. The Williams is personally my favorite trigger for the HK series that I have tried.
    Williams Triggers

    The PSG1 trigger. Oh, how I hate this thing. Yeah, I said it. The pull weight is definitely less than the Williams. The PSG1 trigger clocks in at 2.5 lbs, it has an ever so slight amount of creep. Comparable to the Springfield modification, in that respect. If the discussion ended there, it would be the best HK trigger, period. But, the PSG1 trigger accomplished this magic by selling its soul. It has a two-stage hammer spring. This is what allows the super low pull weight. Light springs are overcome by the pull of the trigger, and then as the hammer flies forward, a second lever and spring kick in to provide the 'oomph' to ignite the primer. Innovative. Unique. And totally a pain to use - literally; because that second hammer spring stage must be overcome when manually cocking the weapon. Right. You know how the G3 'locking' mechanism can be a bit gnarly to work and overcome? Yeah, well imagine that with a heavier spring behind the hammer that you need to overcome as well. The only reason I keep mine around is for 'correctness' with my SR9. But I hate it. No, seriously, this thing stinks. Don't pay the inflated price for one. Go buy a Williams and be happy that you've gotten a quality product for less money. Doesn't happen often in this HK game. Revel in it when you can.

    Franklin Arms binary trigger -- hot dang, now we're talking. Well, sort of. Off the bat, it gives you the binary mode thing, if you're into that. But the semi-auto trigger pull is surprisingly good. Certainly better than the stock HK trigger. And you get an ambi selector if you want. Sounds great, but one can out-run the thing in binary and end up with a dead trigger. And the levers are too long and end up getting in the way of your trigger finger when you put the second lever on. Still, its an improved semi-auto pull, and binary features, and ambi. Sort of cool. Had one, sold it -- don't like that I can out-pace the trigger. But hey, I've been playing guitar for years and have fine dexterity -- maybe you won't be able to out-run it and it'll work great for you. And the lever problem is a Dremel/file/rattle can solution away.

    And.. then we have the SG1 trigger group. Which I have zero experience with. It's a set trigger design, but the set option is performed by pushing a button behind the trigger. This seems like a better way to do things than the William's method. I have no idea about pull weights, or trigger feel of these things. I've never even seen one in the wild. If I had, I'd probably own it -- if the price was semi-reasonable. But I've heard rumor that they are out there. If any members own one, and could give a genuine assessment of its attributes relative to the above trigger groups, I - for one, would love to read it.

    Last but not least, there is the MSG90 trigger. I believe this is basically the same as the PSG1 trigger, but aimed for a Navy polymer housing. But I don't know if there are other differences as well. Any info would be welcome.
    Last edited by sickness; 08-29-2019 at 06:05 AM.
    Own: HK91, SR9, SP5k, G36k, HK416, P30L, 2x P8, 2x P8A1, USP9
    Future: Done, until HK comes out with something new & nifty. Might start building an FNH collection.

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    I have an MSG-90 group, and the internals will fit fine in a metal housing. Changing the selector is required, and a normal G3 one works. I didn't use the ambi one that comes with it.

    DG
    I fix the radar you'all try to stay under...

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    Quote Originally Posted by Conelrad View Post
    I have an MSG-90 group, and the internals will fit fine in a metal housing. Changing the selector is required, and a normal G3 one works. I didn't use the ambi one that comes with it.

    DG
    Interesting. The PSG1 group will fit in a plastic housing, but obviously the selector is not long enough. A normal G3 selector does not work.

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    That is obvious...the plastic housing is slightly thicker, and the selector shaft needs to be about 1/8" longer.

    The take away is selector levers need to stay with the housing, not the internals.

    The nice thing is selectors for MSG90/PSG internals are the same as regular internals.

    BTW, PSG housings are metal.

    DG
    Last edited by Conelrad; 08-30-2019 at 06:05 AM.

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    I have one of Denny Williams "standard" trigger jobs on a (Ambi) FBI pack. Wonderful trigger IMO. It's lighter and a lot less creep but not a precision trigger like you might expect from a fine bolt action rifle. For a semi-auto gun, though, it's great IMO. The actual pull weight will vary some depending upon which hammer spring you use, of course. A G3 spring will of course produce a heavier pull weight then a 9mm spring. I just need to have the rest of my FBI packs converted once of these days.

    Thanks for the informative thread!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Conelrad View Post
    That is obvious...the plastic housing is slightly thicker, and the selector shaft needs to be about 1/8" longer.

    The take away is selector levers need to stay with the housing, not the internals.

    The nice thing is selectors for MSG90/PSG internals are the same as regular internals.

    BTW, PSG housings are metal.

    DG
    Negative on that for the PSG1. Yes the PSG1 housing is metal, but the selector is different than a G3 selector. I just tried a PSG1 group in a plastic housing with the longer style selector for that housing -- and while it assembles, it will not fire. Same for a metal housing. PSG1 group needs a metal lower, and the PSG1 specific selector.
    Last edited by sickness; 08-30-2019 at 07:25 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Player_To_Be_Named... View Post
    I have one of Denny Williams "standard" trigger jobs on a (Ambi) FBI pack. Wonderful trigger IMO. It's lighter and a lot less creep but not a precision trigger like you might expect from a fine bolt action rifle. For a semi-auto gun, though, it's great IMO. The actual pull weight will vary some depending upon which hammer spring you use, of course. A G3 spring will of course produce a heavier pull weight then a 9mm spring. I just need to have the rest of my FBI packs converted once of these days.

    Thanks for the informative thread!
    The Williams set trigger, in set mode, is comparable, I think, to a bolt action trigger. Maybe not a 'fine bolt action' -- but maybe comparable to the low end bolt actions I've shot. I've never done a side-by-side with them. So I can just go from memory and impressions, but I would say its better than a Mosin Nagant trigger and on par with a Savage trigger. Just anecdotal info there -- I have only shot one example of each, and that was some time ago. I don't own any bolt actions any longer. Last bolt gun I owned was an FN SPR, and it was certainly in another class than the Williams for sure.

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    Mine works fine with a G3 selector, what can I say.

    You're cursed by HK....

    DG

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    Has anyone heard from Springfield recently? I've emailed and called about trigger work and a heavy buffer but haven't heard anything back. Phone goes straight to voicemail.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Conelrad View Post
    Mine works fine with a G3 selector, what can I say.

    You're cursed by HK....

    DG
    No, it seems like we're inadvertently not being precise.

    HK trigger options-20190830_132917.jpg
    PSG1 selector on the left, HK91 selector on the right.

    As you can see, the selectors are distinctly different. This thread confirms that others experience the same thing: https://www.hkpro.com/forum/hk-long-...gger-pack.html
    The selector is part #9233-3500. As seen in better detail here: https://www.midwestgunworks.com/page/mgwi/prod/224695

    So, I did some digging and went to the PSG1 maintenance manuals. The PSG1A1 maintenance manual doesn't have very detailed pictures of the selector, nor a parts list to confirm they are different numbers. But, the one drawing and one picture that it does have leads me to believe the PSGA1 may use a standard G3 style selector or at least one that is close enough to work, while the original PSG1 uses the PSG1-specific safety, part #9233-3500.

    That, or what you have is something like this:
    https://www.facebook.com/24175064253...9669905080678/

    As an aside, this brief excursion into the nitty gritty on the PSG1 has led me to a new way to search for obscure Heckler & Koch documentation: Google for "heckler RANDOM-PART-NUMBER filetype:pdf"

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