G36 Trigger Take Down - Help/Tops
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Thread: G36 Trigger Take Down - Help/Tops

  1. #1
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    Default G36 Trigger Take Down - Help/Tops

    I have a T36 Trigger Lower Housing I need to replace, due to the housing breaking near the pin. I could not find any good trigger disassembly take down videos. I am competent enough with putting trigger packs together when I have too, but I am not an expert. I have the new housing and this looks like a project for this weekend between honey-do chores ;)

    I am wondering how complex the take down and rebuild is compared to an AR? And if there is any advice I should have before I start pulling it apart (or maybe a good how to somewhere on the forum).

    Cheers!

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    Quote Originally Posted by tenhunter View Post
    I have a T36 Trigger Lower Housing I need to replace, due to the housing breaking near the pin. I could not find any good trigger disassembly take down videos. I am competent enough with putting trigger packs together when I have too, but I am not an expert. I have the new housing and this looks like a project for this weekend between honey-do chores ;)

    I am wondering how complex the take down and rebuild is compared to an AR? And if there is any advice I should have before I start pulling it apart (or maybe a good how to somewhere on the forum).

    Cheers!
    It's not hard. Though not exactly what you have for FCG, this might be helpful.

    https://www.hkpro.com/forum/hk-refer...r-sl8-fcg.html

    If your FCG is like a converted G36 group, then it's pretty easy. The locking lever on a SL8 or burst group is the worst part.

    I find putting the legs of the hammer springs where they belong, and then pulling the springs with needle nose pliers to catch on the hammer to be my preferred way of doing it.
    Last edited by kbinmt; 05-15-2020 at 04:20 PM.
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    Agreed with Kent. I use the end of my punch to slide the legs of the spring back and over the catch. Good luck!
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    Quote Originally Posted by kbinmt View Post
    It's not hard. Though not exactly what you have for FCG, this might be helpful.

    https://www.hkpro.com/forum/hk-refer...r-sl8-fcg.html

    .
    Its the US T36 lower, not the SL8 conversion.

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    I think what he is showing you in that thread is generally how the parts go together/come apart. If that doesn’t work for you you could also hit it with progressively larger hammers...or just send it to Bostic.
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    The easiest G36 fire control group to work with is the FBI (safe & semi) and 3 position G36 fire control group.

    The SL8 one is a tad more challenging. I've done all of the above.

    The burst lowers, I send to the pros. Never handled a T36 FCG. How did the housing break, if you don't mind me asking? I'm sure Tom will make it right if you talk to him about it.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nzfly View Post
    I think what he is showing you in that thread is generally how the parts go together/come apart. If that doesn’t work for you you could also hit it with progressively larger hammers...or just send it to Bostic.
    Yeah, I was just updating! Its helpful.

    Quote Originally Posted by sweersa View Post
    The easiest G36 fire control group to work with is the FBI (safe & semi) and 3 position G36 fire control group.

    The SL8 one is a tad more challenging. I've done all of the above.

    The burst lowers, I send to the pros. Never handled a T36 FCG. How did the housing break, if you don't mind me asking? I'm sure Tom will make it right if you talk to him about it.
    Not warranty related IMO, got stepped on outside of the firearm by my daughter.. Tommy is great.

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    Thanks for the help! The T36 was definitely simple to take down, and had less components than the SL8. Doing it in stages was pretty easy. The SL8 instructions helped troubleshoot the hammer not locking back properly and release with trigger pull (spring got loose). Actually the only thing that confused me was the selector switch not being as much of a no brainer as I expected.

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