Thank you for taking the time to wright this up. May do this in the future.
This short guide will show you how to convert a P30/P30S/P30L/P30LS from V3 (DA/SA) to LEM (including V0, V1, V2, V4, V4.1CH, and V-TGS). Though not officially supported by H&K (and will void your warranty), it's an easy conversion that you can do yourself with a few parts and tools.
There is no official LEM kit for the P-series pistols (due to HK's position on LEM conversions on P-series pistols) but parts can be obtained individually from HK Customer Service, Brownells, MidwestGunWorks, TopGunSupply, Numrich, or HKParts.net. HK Customer Service (706-568-1906) usually have the best prices available.
If you reside within the state of Texas and would like to perform this conversion but feel uneasy about taking apart the pistol and putting everything back together, send me a PM. I might be able to offer some assistance.
HS = Hammer Spring
FP = Firing Pin
FPS = Firing Pin Spring
FPBS = Firing Pin Block Spring
TRS = Trigger Rebound Spring
TBDS = Trigger Bar Detent Spring
LEM Release Catch - aka Sear (209320)
LEM Cocking Piece (209265)
LEM Elbow Spring for Hammer - aka Cocking Piece Spring (209275)
LEM Bobbed Hammer (209321)
Heavy LEM Hammer Spring (214695)
Control Lever (209274)
V0 LEM (Decocker with a spurred LEM Hammer) option
Buy the Spurred LEM Hammer (209262)
Keep the TRS, and Sear from your V3 (DA/SA) pistol
You will not need the LEM Sear (209320) or bobbed LEM Hammer (209321) as indicated in the parts list above
Below is a photo of the spurred LEM hammer.
V1 LEM (Light LEM) option
Keep the stock V3 Firing Pin Block Spring (FPBS)
Keep the stock V3 Elbow Spring for Trigger (TRS)
V2 LEM (Heavy LEM) option
Keep the V3 (DA/SA) Firing Pin Block Spring (FPBS)
Buy the Heavy Elbow Spring for Trigger (Heavy TRS - 234405)
V4.1CH LEM (Swiss LEM) option
You will not need the LEM Bobbed Hammer (209321)
Keep the V3 (DA/SA) Firing Pin Block Spring (FPBS)
Buy the V4.1CH LEM Kit (3 separate parts)
Keep the stock Elbow Spring for Trigger (aka Trigger Rebound Spring or TRS) or buy the Medium TRS (234773) if you want a more positive reset but heavier trigger pull
Other Optional Parts
If you want to reduce the pull weight by an additional 1/2 to 1 lb, get the Light FPBS (209296)
If you want any other LEM variants (V4 or V-TGS), see this Springs Chart for the required springs.
In addition, if your P30/P30L is a recent model (BD or later), you may already have the latest Control Lever. Double check to make sure the Control Lever in your pistol is the same as the LEM Control Lever in the pictures below (note the area circled in RED). This, however, does not apply to a P30S or a P30LS as it uses a Control Lever that has a different shape.
Notes on V4.1CH LEM
You must swap the stock Trigger Bar Detent Spring (TBDS) with the V4.1 TBDS. The stock TBDS does not have enough tension to push up on the Trigger Bar, due to the changed geometry of the V4.1 Hammer and V4.1 Catch. Using the stock TBDS may cause the trigger not resetting properly. If you encounter the trigger reset issue as described in this video, it is caused by using the stock TBDS instead of the V4.1 TBDS.
If you want V4.1CH LEM with the same V1 Light LEM trigger pull, keep the stock V3 TRS.
The Medium TRS (234773) is about 0.8 lbs heavier than the stock V3 TRS and is the proper spring for factory V4.1CH LEM
Below are some pictures of the V4.1CH LEM parts and comparison of standard LEM parts versus V4.1CH LEM Parts.
V4.1CH LEM SPECIFIC PARTS
V4.1 Hammer (207934)
V4.1 Catch (207933)
V4.1 Trigger Bar Detent Spring (207932)
V4/V4.1 Medium-weight TRS (234773) <-- this spring is optional
Comparison of the standard LEM Hammer & Catch versus the V4.1CH LEM Hammer & Catch
Comparison of the stock Trigger Rebound Spring versus V4/V4.1 Trigger Rebound Spring
Comparison of the stock Trigger Bar Detent Spring and V4.1 Trigger Bar Detent Spring
Tools that you'll need
1/16 roll-pin punch (if yours is a P30S/P30LS)
3/32 roll-pin punch
1/8 punch (optional)
3/32 punch (optional)
Small hammer or mallet
If you are going to convert to a V2, V-TGS, V4, or V4.1CH LEM, you'll need to swap the TRS and, therefore, will need these tools:
A pair of thin, needle-nose pliers or the TRS Tool from HKParts.net (highly recommended)
Use the 3/32 roll-pin punch to drive out the roll pin that holds the backstrap. You can use a regular punch but a roll-pin punch will not deform the pin.
Remove the backstrap
Use the butt of a punch and push up on the hammer bearing (circled in RED)
While pushing up on the hammer bearing, use another punch to push out the retaining roll pin (circled in GREEN), or just wiggle the frame and the pin should fall out
Remove the hammer spring, hammer bearing, and roll pin
Leave the hammer strut in the frame. You can use some painter's masking tape to tape the strut to the grip so it won't move around.
Use the 3/32 punch to push out the sear axle (circled in RED) from the right side of the frame --> the left side as the left end of the axle is slightly larger than the right end
Remove the sear, catch, control latch, and disconnector
If you have a P30/P30L
Using the 3/32 or 1/8 punch, while depressing lightly on the trigger bar, push out the hammer axle (circled in GREEN) and remove the hammer and hammer strut
Go to Step 5
If you have a P30/P30L, skip the rest of this step and go to Step 5
Look at the bottom of the left-side safety lever. You'll see a tiny roll pin (circled in RED)
Flip up the safety lever and you'll see a detent pin that sits underneath the safety lever (circled in RED in pic #2 below)
Using the 1/16 roll-pin punch, drive out the tiny roll pin that holds the left-side safety lever (from top down)
Remove the left-side safety lever and the detent pin + spring located underneath the safety lever (circled in RED)
While depressing lightly on the trigger bar, either use the 3/32 punch to push out the ambi safety lever shaft (hammer axle) completely or just grab the right-side safety lever and pull it off the frame
Remove the hammer and hammer strut
The following V3 (DA/SA) parts will be re-used:
Hammer Catch (unless you are doing a V4.1 LEM conversion -- You'll need a V4.1 LEM Catch instead)
Control Lever <-- Only if your stock Control Lever is the same as the LEM Control Lever (see notes at the top of this thread)
If you want to keep the decocker:
Release Catch with Decocker
If you are converting to V1 LEM, skip to step 9
The next step is to swap out the TRS if you are doing Heavy LEM (V2) or V4.1CH LEM (and want to use the V4 Medium TRS for more positive trigger reset). See Steps 9 thru 16 of this thread
When re-installing the TRS, make sure the right leg (the longer leg) rests upon the groove on the slide release lever. This is important as the slide release lever in the P30/P30L is captive. If the leg does not rest upon the groove, the slide release lever will not stay captive.
If you are not converting to V4.1CH LEM, skip to step 9
Locate the Trigger Bar Detent on the back of the frame, top of the grip area
Use the blade of a small, flat-tipped screwdriver or the butt of a punch, push up lightly on the Detent to dislodge it from the frame
Remove the Trigger Bar Detent and its Spring. Note the orientation of the Detent when it sits on the frame
A comparison of the stock Trigger Bar Detent Spring and the V4.1 Trigger Bar Detent Spring
Assemble the Trigger Bar Detent and V4.1 Trigger Bar Detent Spring
Grab the assembled Trigger Bar Detent with a small, needle-nose pliers and drop it into its hole on the frame. Pay close attention to the orientation of the Detent due to the irregular shape of the top part of the Detent
Using the butt of a punch, push down lightly on the top of the Detent until it clicks into the frame
Verify that the Detent is secured and stays in place even when you turn the frame upside down
Assemble the bobbed hammer, cocking piece, and cocking piece spring. Note the orientation of the cocking piece going inside the hammer. It helps to use a little grease to hold these parts together.
Laying the frame on its right side, insert the assembled hammer into the frame
Insert the hammer axle (or ambi safety lever shaft on P30S/P30LS) into the hole while depressing the trigger bar. Push the axle thru the hammer until it sits flush with the left side of the frame (for a P30/P30L) or sticks out a little bit on the left side of frame (for a P30S/P30LS)
Note the legs of the cocking piece spring (circled in RED)
Lube or oil lightly the sear
Locate the legs of the cocking piece spring. One leg will rest upon the hammer.
Use the dental pick to pull back the 2nd leg of the cocking piece spring and insert the sear in the opening between the flat spring and the leg that you are holding.
You can also re-use the V3 sear (with decocker) if you do not want a gap on the left side of the hammer (more on that later)
Both legs of the cocking piece spring should look like this; one resting upon the hammer while the other is on the face of the sear
If yours is a P30S/P30LS, it is important that you re-use the V3 Control Lever to retain the safety function. The Control Lever in a P30S/P30LS looks a little different than the one in a P30/P30L. It has a C-hook on one end of the lever.
I find it easier to install the remaining parts in this order: (1) Disconnector --> (2) Control Lever --> (3) Catch
Guide the 3/32 punch from the right side of the frame thru the Disconnector --> Control Lever --> Catch --> Sear until it sticks out on the left side of frame
Insert the sear axle (from the left side of frame), pushing the punch back out (to the right side of frame) until the sear axle sits flush with the left side of the frame
When all parts have been re-installed, the hammer group should look like this
If your have a P30/P30L, skip to step 15
Insert the tiny roll-pin on the left-side safety lever and push it in (using the 1/16 roll-pin punch) until it almost sticks out on the inside of the lever (circled in RED)
Insert the tiny safety lever detent pin + spring in the cavity under the left-side safety lever
Mount the left-side safety lever on the ambi safety lever shaft (aka hammer axle)
Using the 1/16 roll-pin punch, drive the tiny pin on the left-side safety lever all the way in
Swap the stock V3 (DA/SA) hammer spring with the Heavy LEM hammer spring
Lube or oil lightly the hammer strut and hammer spring
Push up the hammer strut to make sure it sits correctly in the opening under the hammer (left pic below)
If the strut and spring are oriented like picture on the right, it is wrong! The strut should be pushed up to recess inside the opening
Use the butt of a punch and push up on the hammer bearing to compress the hammer spring (area circled in YELLOW)
While pushing up on the bottom of the hammer bearing, insert the retaining pin into the upper hole (circled in RED) on the bearing to lock it in place. There are 2 holes on the bearing so make sure the pin goes into the upper one. The lower hole is for the backstrap roll pin.
If you are converting to a Light LEM (V1) and want to reduce the trigger pull weight further (1/2 to 1 lb, resulting in a final pull around 4.5 to 5 lbs), install the Light Firing Pin Block Spring (FPBS)
See this post to replace the FPBS
Note the location of the Firing Pin Block Spring roll-pin (circled in RED). Don't mistake this with the other roll-pin (extractor), which is located a little farther to the left
After the conversion is done, you will end up with a little gap on the left side of the hammer.
Gap as shown on a P30S/P30LS
However, if you want, you can re-use the original V3 (DA/SA) sear with the decocker. There won't be a gap and the decocker can be used to release tension on the hammer spring.
Last edited by TooSixy; 04-08-2019 at 04:01 AM. Reason: Updated guide to include V4.1CH LEM
Thank you for taking the time to wright this up. May do this in the future.
Having a hell of a time with Step number 4- Use the 3/32 punch to push out the sear axle (circled in RED)
The sear axel does not want to move out more than just a bit. I've taken a hammer to the back end of the punch and still can't get it to move out. Any words of advice?
Nevermind got it!
Last edited by topslop1; 03-12-2013 at 11:20 PM.
This is quality
Wow. Great and simple to follow. Nice work TooSixy.
do these two parts have to be purchased?
• Elbow Spring for Hammer - aka Cocking Piece Spring 209275
• Control Lever - aka Control Latch 209274
According to my research, the Control Latch part number is for a P2000, and the one explicitly listed for the P30 looks identical. Is it actually different or can I reuse the one that's already in the firearm?
Same for the Cocking Piece Spring... the part number appears to be the same for all P30 variants.
Are these two being recommended for replacement due to wear? Thanks.
Rules to live by: 1. Eat meat... 2. Shoot guns... 3. Fire... 4. Gasoline... 5. Make juniors
You will need the Control Latch (209274) as well as the rest of the LEM parts. The LEM Control Latch and V3 Control Latch are a little different. Don't go by the diagram in your P-Series Operator's Manual. That diagram depicts the LEM version and not the V3 (DA/SA) version. In other words, your V3 does not already come with the Cocking Piece and Cocking Piece Spring.
Last edited by TooSixy; 01-02-2014 at 08:12 PM.
Got it, thank you.
Then the only piece I don't need to replace/order is the sear, since I'm planning on setting it up as a V0.
Well, that and the FPBS, since I already did that a couple months back.
A V0 technically is a LEM with a decocker and a spurred hammer.
So you're saying I could drop getting the bobbed hammer from the parts list? Is the spurred hammer compatible with the new cocking piece? I'm assuming that's still needed.