• Assemble the bobbed LEM hammer (or spurred LEM hammer if you're doing a V0 LEM conversion), cocking piece, and cocking piece spring
1. Bobbed LEM Hammer
2. Cocking Piece
3. Cocking Piece Spring
• Putting a few dabs of grease on the surface of the parts help keep them together
• Note the orientation of the Cocking Piece inside the Hammer and the legs of the Cocking Piece Spring
1. Complete Hammer with Cocking Piece & Cocking Piece Spring
2. Hammer Strut
3. Hammer Axle (or the Ambi Safety Shaft if you have a P30SKS)
• Drop the Hammer Strut into the frame and use a rubber band or some painter's tape to keep the Hammer Strut in place
• Guide the complete LEM Hammer into the frame. It is easier to lay the frame on its side while slowly inserting the Hammer
• Line up the Hammer Axle hole on the Hammer with the hole on the frame, then insert the Hammer Axle (or Ambi Safety Shaft) while depressing lightly on the Trigger Bar. The Trigger Bar needs to be depressed in order to insert the Hammer Axle completely
• If you have a P30SK, make sure the right side of the Hammer Axle is flush against the right side of the frame (circled in Red)
If you have a P30SKS, continue with this step. If you have a P30SK, skip to step 24
• Insert the tiny Roll-Pin on the Left-Side Safety Lever and push it in (using the 1/16 roll-pin punch) until it almost sticks out on the inside of the lever (circled in RED)
• Insert the tiny Safety Lever Detent Pin + Spring in the frame cut-out under the Left-Side Safety Lever
• Mount the Left-Side Safety Lever on the Ambi Safety Shaft (aka Hammer Axle)
• Using the 1/16 roll-pin punch, drive the tiny pin on the Left-Side Safety Lever all the way in
• The Cocking Piece Spring legs should be visible from inside the frame. Note the orientation of the legs (facing the right side of the frame)
• I find it easier to install the following parts in this order:
1. Sear (if you are converting to V0 LEM, you must re-use the V3 Sear with the decocker)
3. Control Latch/Lever
• If yours is a P30SKS, it is important that you re-use the V3 Control Latch/Lever to retain the safety function. The Control Latch/Lever on a P30SKS looks a little different than the one on a P30SK. It has a C-hook on one end of the lever.
• Locate the legs of the Cocking Piece Spring. Looking down on the Hammer, the bottom leg should be resting against the surface of the Hammer (circled in Yellow) while the other leg is facing the Sear (circled in Red)
• Use the dental pick to pull back on the second leg (compressing the legs) while inserting the Sear. The Sear sits between the Hammer and Flat Sear Spring
• You can also re-use the V3 sear (with decocker) if you do not want a gap on the left side of the hammer (more on that later) or if you are doing a V0 LEM conversion
• Verify that the Cocking Piece Spring and Sear are installed correctly
• Insert the Disconnector, Control Latch/Lever, then Catch
• When all 4 parts are installed correctly, sleeve the 3/32 punch from the right side of the frame, through all the parts, until it sticks out on the other side of the frame
• Locate the Sear Axle and note the thicker end of the Axle (circled in Red). The other, thinner end will go into the frame first
• Insert the Sear Axle while backing out the punch until the axle goes completely through all the parts. You may need to give it a light tap to seat it fully
• Make sure the Sear Axle is flush against the left side of the frame
• Remove the rubber band or painter's tape from the Hammer Strut
• Insert the Hammer Spring onto the Hammer Strut and push the spring all the way up
• Note the cut-out on the Grip Insert (circled in Red). This is where the other end of the Hammer Spring will go
• Line up the Hammer Spring with the cut-out on the Grip Insert, guide the Grip Insert onto the frame, and push it up toward the top of the frame until the catches on the both sides of the Grip Insert lock in the frame
• Mount the Backstrap and re-install the Roll-Pin using the 3/32 Roll-Pin Punch
• Congratulations! Your LEM conversion is now complete!
The picture below shows the gap on the frame when the V3 Sear/Decocker is replaced with the LEM Sear. It will work fine like this but if you are not happy with the gap, the solution is to re-use the stock V3 Sear with Decocker.
Note: If you are converting to a V0 LEM, you must re-use the V3 sear with the decocker.
Picture of the V3 Sear with Decocker if you do not like the gap (or if you are converting to a V0 LEM).