How to Guide for HK MR556/416 Remarking - Page 2
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Thread: How to Guide for HK MR556/416 Remarking

  1. #11
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    @jbrams Great information however I do think there will still be a little bit of " I have a guy, but....". This is because your write up is true for HK made lowers. Most engravers that I talked with are not afraid to mark HK on HK but they are leery of marking HK on NON HK. Some of them stated to me that they did not believe one or two here and there was a problem but others said absolutely no go, ALL said it was because they were to small of an operation to face off with HK over some markings. I can understand that and please understand OP I am not trying to poo poo your post. I believe it is great and relevant info in the HK on HK application but not the "clone" application.
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  2. #12
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    Can we get the OO’s original post added to the locked FAQ thread started by ye ol’ pb-removed?

    Or made into a sticky like Nzfly’s 416 SF post?
    "Just because you're paranoid doesn’t mean they're not after you!"

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by RegularGuy461969 View Post

    Can we get the OO’s original post added to the locked FAQ thread started by ye ol’ pb-removed?

    Or made into a sticky like Nzfly’s 416 SF post?
    I agree it would likely cut down on redundant questions. One small suggestion would be to swap out the markings comparison picture with actual examples and not airsoft receivers.

    "Reason: People complaining about the airsoft receivers" - lol
    Last edited by Nzfly; 07-31-2019 at 03:35 AM.
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  5. #14
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    Thanks for an excellent tutorial!!!


  6. #15
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    Wish I could do this with a MR lower in NJ (I know, it sucks). Make sure you check your local and State laws before going forward with all of this. In NJ:

    According to section N.J.S.A. 2C:39-1, “deface” means to remove, deface, cover, alter, or destroy the name of the maker, model designation, manufacturer’s serial number or any other distinguishing identification mark or number on any firearm.

  7. #16
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    Jbrams, this is an informative post and thanks for taking the time to go into detail with exactly what you did.

    I would like to add, I spoke with US Anodizing about a month or two ago and they told me they aren’t accepting new orders for anodizing as they have large contracts to fulfill before the end for the year.

    I was also advised by US Anodizing that the proper way to have the Type III Class 2 hard-coat that HK uses removed, is to be removed by a chemical etching bath.

    I looked into the chemical etching more and more and along with the help from another member on the forum I found a place who does metal etching. I brought my stripped MR762 lower to the business earlier today, and within five minutes the factory anodizing was removed without any media blasting. There was a little left over in the trigger pocket and very small amounts in other areas, but that can be taken down with glass bead blasting after sanding the factory markings off.

    I’m not trying to hijack your post, just looking to offer additional information to the process.

    Here are three pictures of my lower post chemical etching:
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails How to Guide for HK MR556/416 Remarking-8c22ca7e-3e06-46c3-9e57-ab621b897559_1565037524554.jpeg   How to Guide for HK MR556/416 Remarking-0ae55516-af2e-4c73-b21e-02bad09484b7_1565037531309.jpeg   How to Guide for HK MR556/416 Remarking-39e708a2-4955-49f6-850e-119f82ae8131_1565037540510.jpeg  
    Last edited by koolaidohyeaah; 08-06-2019 at 12:56 PM.
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  8. #17
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    Removing the anodization from a receiver is something you can very easily do at home, even if it's hard anodized. However the problem isn't the de-anodizing of the receiver, but the re-anodizing afterwards. During the anodization process you're changing the molecular make up of the aluminium, causing it to simultaneously grow a very hard but porous layer both inwards and outwards. It's this outward grown layer which changes the dimensions of the items, and by removing the anodization you're also removing some of the outer layer of that part, and thus again changing it's dimensions. For that reason a firearm receiver is only allowed to be stripped and re-anodized once during its lifetime, repeating the process more than that will have too much of a detrimental effect on the tolerances. It is possible to strip and re-apply the anodized layer to the exact same thickness, hence keeping it within the same tolerances as before, but it takes great skill and experience to do that.
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