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Thread: Dry-firing

  1. #11
    P30
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    What HK write about dry-firing:

    OPERATOR’S MANUAL P30 / P30L / P30SK PISTOL (page 8) (heckler-koch.com/en/service/operator-manuals.html):
    Avoid dry firing of the hammer. Dry firing of the hammer can lead to premature wear.
    BEDIENUNGSANLEITUNG PISTOLE P30 / P30L / P30SK (page 8) (heckler-koch.com/de/service/bedienungsanleitungen.html):
    Vermeiden Sie Leerabschlagen des Schlaghebels. Leerabschlagen des Schlaghebels kann zu vorzeitigem Verschleiß führen.
    The German wording is more precise. The first sentence means: Avoid dry firing of the hammer on an empty chamber.

    I'm sure, if you dry-fire a P30 or USP one hundred times on an empty chamber, it will be no problem. One thousand times? Not so sure. So, when I dry-fire, I usually use snap caps.

    For DA/SA pistols, snap caps work fine. For LEM and striker-fired pistols, not so fine. (With LEM and SF pistols, you can't easily cock it without racking the slide. Racking the slide ejects the snap cap. Therefore I've removed the rim on one of my snap caps.)
    Last edited by P30; 07-09-2019 at 08:12 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by P30 View Post
    What HK write about dry-firing:

    OPERATOR’S MANUAL P30 / P30L / P30SK PISTOL (page 8) (heckler-koch.com/en/service/operator-manuals.html):



    I'm sure, if you dry-fire a P30 or USP one hundred times on an empty chamber, it will be no problem. One thousand times? Not so sure. So, when I dry-fire, I usually use snap caps.
    If you did a 30 minute dryfire session...with 5 shots/minute (which would be slow and boring AF), you'd execute 150 "fires" a session. That's 1050 in a week. I will tell you with supreme confidence...it would be fine.

    Per the manual, 99% of people are cleaning/lubing incorrectly, using improper ammunition as well, and all these parts changes/upgrades are "verboten".
    Never understood how HK could be so cavalier about their spring life estimates, but completely the opposite on dry fire.

    More Lube, More dry fire, Fewer rounds before spring replacement. Drive on!

  3. #13
    P30
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    Quote Originally Posted by dms16 View Post
    Never understood how HK could be so cavalier about their spring life estimates
    Which of their spring life estimates is too optimistic from your point of view? Trigger return spring?

    Maintenance-relevant data from Todd Green's P30 extreme test:
    hkpro.com/forum/hk-handgun-talk/150475-recommended-spare-parts-usp-expert.html#post1122843
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    Quote Originally Posted by P30 View Post
    Which of their spring life estimates is too optimistic from your point of view? Trigger return spring?

    Maintenance-relevant data from Todd Green's P30 extreme test:
    hkpro.com/forum/hk-handgun-talk/150475-recommended-spare-parts-usp-expert.html#post1122843

    Yeah...I've read ALL of Todd's old tests including the non-HK one's too...SEVERAL times.

    "Can" and "should" are not the same things. I ran a 416 well past it's scheduled changes...and Jon Canipe did it 3x over...doesn't mean it didn't put a hurt on the guns. I like my guns and I like to keep them working. Case in point, the rule was to change 1911 RSA's every 1000 rounds. I saw one run 10,000 rounds straight with only lube added to the barrel hood. You know what happened next...it was scrapped. The internals were totaled and the slide/frame rails were jacked. A quick look at the M9 history in the military is another prime example of how an entire system can go up until a point and then you can't bring it back form negligence.

    There was some good insight not long ago where some spring-makers talked about their products...very sobering and nothing in the gun is mechanically meant to go in excess of 5-figures worth. Kinda like changing your oil in your car....3001 ain't gonna hurt anything...nor is 5000, but waiting 20,000 is just stupid even IF some "influencer" showed you they did it for the likes.
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    If I dry fire a hammerd fired gun I just grab the hammer with my thumb so it doesn’t hit hard!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Drp2hrd View Post
    well pretty much all the people I talk to give me mixed signals about dry-firing a handgun. I was brought up never to do that but recently people have been saying that they do it more commonly. also ive read that the USP models have a decocker on it. But I cant seem to figure out where it is on all the models I go to look at or how it would work.

    Also I heard that if you dry-fire a gun alot that the firing pin breaks.

    Any input would be awesome.

    Not rim fire so don’t dry fire 22 long rifle. All centerfire I dry fire all the time. Don’t like dry fire revolvers. I use dummy’s for that.

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    I’ve never had any issues by dry firing

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    For all my hammer fired guns I simply put a thick o-ring right behind the firing pin and the hammer. Actually just bought another pack. Danco #31. Like 3.00 for ten. You will wear out your trigger return spring before you go through a pack of these.

    Hammer hits o-ring and softens impact to slide/hammer and firing pin doesn't move.

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    Funny thing. The OP (Drp2hrd) was banned from the forum. Latest post was on 8/1, and he never did respond on this thread.
    Last edited by Vincent04; 08-13-2019 at 11:03 AM.

  11. #20
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    Just FYI... the HK operator’s manual for the P2000 LEM V2 states to dry-fire it once to relieve pressure on the spring when putting the weapon away for storage.

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