I am fortunate enough to have such a set-up.
I was also super duper lucky to buy a complete HK416 upper and lower (semi-only lower) with matching serial numbers. But good news and bad news, I am keeping my one and only set locked in the safe. As opposed to changing the HK416 lower semi only FCG to Full Auto or Burst FCG (or I guess safe, semi, burst and full auto mode, which another HKPro member advised me on).
Maybe if I get a great bonus this year, and I can afford another real deal HK416 semi-only lower. I would put the RDIAS in it and change out the FCG.
But outside of the marking, my understanding is that the semi-only HK416 lower and the MR556 lower is the exact same. Does anybody know if this is true? Or just another figment of my over-active imagination????
I can’t top a real 416, but I do have a few nice kits I’m saving for when/if 922o is repealed that would make very nice registed MGs if built.
One is too rare and nice to dumb down to a semi auto reweld, I’d just as soon keep it as a cool kit, so in the safe it waits, perhaps for eternity.
As far as semi auto 416 vs MR556 receiver, the only difference I can imagine is the inside of the MR556 “shelf” may need altering to fit the DIAS, but I’m not certain of that.
I appreciate the overall discussion and I think it provides insight as to what people find as they try to understand firearms. I had the honesty to concede, do you have the honesty not to be a prick?
I've had a DoD structural steel certification for working naval steam systems. I can use a pneumatic angle grinder to cut to blue line full circumference on said piping systems (de-pressurized/locked out during work obviously) and have done so many times on D5 conversions.
Taking a grinder and making a simple 1/16" deep, 1/8" wide (approx.) wide notch in the circumference of a barrel to break the nitriding for a clean lathe cut isn't a big damn deal and makes the lathe portion of the process quicker and cheaper. Especially considering that the entirety of the ground portion is completely removed when turned down, threaded, and re-crowned. You would never even guess that's how the nitriding was broken when looking at the final product, nor does it cause any structural, stress, or temper issues. This process makes the carbide bits last almost twice as long due to only having to cut a single layer of nitriding in the bore and grinding wheels are cheaper to replace than carbide bits.
You keep thinking this is amateur hour and something done by a "youtube certified gunsmith". Doesn't bother me in the slightest.
Last edited by InshallahTech; 11-24-2017 at 05:46 AM.
This thread has been a black week indeed :)
What is the bore lined with if its not nitrided? I thought the MR 556/762 were both nitrided if they arent that or chrome lined are they just bare?
So many HKs so little time.