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Thread: MP5 Lighted Forends

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gilly19 View Post
    I also have the B&T light for my SP5, and I used a small hand file to try to get a clean fit, but no.....I still use a punch mallet. This weekend I'm going to break out the dremel.

    I plan to keep the light on while using it as a PDW at home, but swap for original grip when going to the range. The mallet is not a HUGE pain, but I'd rather have it quickly swappable. I will dremel it into submission at some point.
    Did you have any success? I ended up pulling the trigger on a TL-99, and sure enough, the pin hole doesn't line up at all. The hole on the TL-99 is off by ~1-2mm in the axial/lengthwise direction, and ~1-2mm in the 'height' of the pistol. Did yours look like this? Here is a picture of what I mean:
    .
    For reference, here's how the OEM one lines up:


    Quote Originally Posted by fatmat27 View Post
    Mine was a little snug as well but instead of taking material from the pin-hole, I filed the tension tab on the other end. Just used the buffing wheel to take off the smallest amount to make it fit perfectly. Got it for barely over $100 (thanks @bystok ) so I didn't really feel like I was f'n with a $500 part.
    I ended up getting a TL-99. I'm not sure that removing material from that surface alone would be enough to make the holes line up. The hole mismatch on mine is ~1-2mm on two axis. Did yours look like that too?

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by HyruleHero View Post
    I ended up getting a TL-99. I'm not sure that removing material from that surface alone would be enough to make the holes line up. The hole mismatch on mine is ~1-2mm on two axis. Did yours look like that too?
    In your case, it looks like you need more support material in that area. Once you get the fore/aft corrected, the pin should hold it at the proper height.

    Did you take too much off?

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by fatmat27 View Post
    In your case, it looks like you need more support material in that area. Once you get the fore/aft corrected, the pin should hold it at the proper height.

    Did you take too much off?
    I think the perspective is a little confusing. The hole in the handguard is too far forward - I need to remove material. I haven't removed any material yet. That will align the two holes fore/aft, but the hole on the hand guard will still be too 'low' relative to the pistol.

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  5. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by HyruleHero View Post
    Did you have any success? I ended up pulling the trigger on a TL-99, and sure enough, the pin hole doesn't line up at all. The hole on the TL-99 is off by ~1-2mm in the axial/lengthwise direction, and ~1-2mm in the 'height' of the pistol. Did yours look like this? Here is a picture of what I mean:
    .
    For reference, here's how the OEM one lines up:




    I ended up getting a TL-99. I'm not sure that removing material from that surface alone would be enough to make the holes line up. The hole mismatch on mine is ~1-2mm on two axis. Did yours look like that too?
    Mine is not even close to as bad as what you have in the top photo. That's going to take some work, for sure.

  6. #25
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    My TL-99 was slightly off, but the plus side was that it was much more snug than the factory HK handguard once installed. Only took a little bit of tapping with a nylon hammer(was amused to have the exact Picard hammer show in the TL-99 manual). Not bad overall for a part that really does not come off with any regularity.

  7. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheSt|G View Post
    My TL-99 was slightly off, but the plus side was that it was much more snug than the factory HK handguard once installed. Only took a little bit of tapping with a nylon hammer(was amused to have the exact Picard hammer show in the TL-99 manual). Not bad overall for a part that really does not come off with any regularity.
    I was able to squeeze mine up a little higher onto the pistol so that the hole is slightly off. I tried tapping with a nylon hammer to get it to line up the rest of the way, but it doesn't want to budge at all. The instructions state to use a tool to marry the hole of the hanguard up to the pistol. How hard did you have to hammer? Do you recall how 'off' it was?

  8. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by HyruleHero View Post
    I recently started looking for a lighted forend for my SP5, which will eventually become my designated HD pistol (w/ brace). I'm ruling out the B&T TL-99 based on the overwhelming number of reviews indicating fit issues - I don't want to have bust out a mallet to change out a forend because B&T couldn't be bothered to get the tolerances right.

    So that leaves surefire forends, which seem to vary in price wildly, ranging from $200-$700. Obviously new/used will have some influence on price. Other than new/used/condition, what other factors are there? Are there certain models/features that are more/less desirable?

    Also considering a front sight post/pic rail for a flashlight attachment, though that's really more geared towards the k. Has anyone used those? Are they quality?

    Thanks!
    I really like my surefire fore end, if you want it to be brighter there are modern heads available for it too. Can't go wrong

  9. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by fatmat27 View Post
    Mine was a little snug as well but instead of taking material from the pin-hole, I filed the tension tab on the other end. Just used the buffing wheel to take off the smallest amount to make it fit perfectly. Got it for barely over $100 (thanks @bystok ) so I didn't really feel like I was f'n with a $500 part.
    I finally found time and busted out the dremel and shaved ~1.5mm off the surface that fatman27 pointed to, and it now finally fits up beautifully. The fitting also doesn't leave affect aesthetics like reaming out the pin holes would. It's even sturdier than the OEM wide fore end.

    Big thanks for the suggestion, fatman27!
    fatmat27 likes this.

  10. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by fatmat27 View Post
    Mine was a little snug as well but instead of taking material from the pin-hole, I filed the tension tab on the other end. Just used the buffing wheel to take off the smallest amount to make it fit perfectly. Got it for barely over $100 (thanks @bystok ) so I didn't really feel like I was f'n with a $500 part.
    Thank you sir for the picture of the recommended fix! Glad I saw this before I destroyed my B&T fore end.

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