This is why you clean your MP5SD - Page 4
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Thread: This is why you clean your MP5SD

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by TPMoutfitters View Post
    This is a cross section of the front of the HK FACTORY MP5SD suppressor we cut. It's amazing the hole the bullet was bouncing through, the overall carbon build up with the layers is similar to a tree.

    I would love to know the round count through this can.

  2. #32
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    @yz125racer . Chris, THIS is what I was talking about in reference to your question about "fouling" of a Non User-Servicable can like the KAC.

    see page 1 and the photos from the O.P.

    Many thanks to @CircleSH for the heads up.

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    I'll take a contrarian view and suggest there is not neglect.

    They view it like I view the exhaust system on my car, an un-serviceable piece of equipment that gets replaced when worn out. The BBLs (like my Cat) was probably shot out too, so basically a full replace. Thank you Mr. Taxpayer.

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  5. #34
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    Default First Time Cleaning the SD

    Love my TPM SD. I have fired ~ 600 rounds through it. It has the barrel that is larger OD by the ports and narrower on down the length. No trouble for disassembly, but fouling and carbon build up in between the ports and down the outside of the bbl. I cleaned the outside of the barrel as best I could, but still a lot of carbon buildup remaining. Decided to get serious about the cleaning tool...

    The DIY tool (1/2" pipe cleaner and 1" x 12" PVC) has no purchase until the port area, and not a very tight grip there. So I tweaked the design on a 2nd unit and used a tighter radius on the cleaning end and 3/4 by 12" pipe. This new tool has a tight grip, maybe even too tight. It did a great job of cleaning off 99% of the carbon, and completely polished the outside of the bbl. A couple of very small spots remain in the port area that may require a screwdriver/scraper to completely remove.

    My question is this: Should I expect the adhesion of the carbon next time to be stronger due to the polished and scratched outside surface of the barrel? And is there a coating or chemical that would lessen the adhesion? Thanks!

  6. #35
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    I suggest FIREClean. I’ve applied it to the internals of all my suppressors and they are much easier to clean.
    Last edited by scubacuba; 07-19-2018 at 01:37 PM. Reason: ...removed signature

  7. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by scubacuba View Post
    I suggest FIREClean. I’ve applied it to the internals of all my suppressors and they are much easier to clean.
    IIRC, Fireclean has been shown to be nothing more than Canola oil. Not that there's anything wrong with that if it works, but I buy a large bottle at the grocery store for under $3.00, put it in another container with a wider mouth and just let the can soak for however long, then blow it out with the air hose.
    "We do bad things to bad people".

  8. #37
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    Thanks guys. I ordered some fireclean and may go with vegetable oil for the full suppressor soaking... I saw some IR spectra comparisons between the two, then a rebuttle by fireclean, haven't studied it out yet.

  9. #38
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    You would think that 1-2 lbs of carbon build up would already make them wonder...

  10. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lamont View Post
    IIRC, Fireclean has been shown to be nothing more than Canola oil. Not that there's anything wrong with that if it works, but I buy a large bottle at the grocery store for under $3.00, put it in another container with a wider mouth and just let the can soak for however long, then blow it out with the air hose.
    That was proven to be false actually. Yes it does have a similar base but that's like calling Frog Lube coconut oil.

  11. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by scubacuba View Post
    I suggest FIREClean. I’ve applied it to the internals of all my suppressors and they are much easier to clean.
    I used to swear by the stuff. I still have an unopened bottle of FIREClean sitting next to my computer because I refuse to use it or give it to any of my buddies in case they decide to leave the weapon unattended for a few months.

    FIREClean is great, but only if you're not going to store the whatever you're lubing with it. If you don't clean off and reapply FIREClean every few months, it'll end up solidifying. I lubed up a roommate's 1939 Colt 1911 with it and left it sitting for about 9 months. When I finally got around to reapplying lube to the weapon, I could not get the weapon to chamber a round correctly. The weapon was too gunked up for the mainspring to be able to chamber a round correctly. Granted though, the tolerances of the 1939 are tighter than any other 1911 I've ever owned. Normally this isn't a problem if you clean your guns on a monthly basis, but that 1911 was stored without thinking too much about it. I also lubed up one of my shotguns with the stuff. I applied it everywhere. The safety of the shotgun got gunked up with FIREClean so that it no longer is a easy click. I have to push the safety into the whatever position I want it in. I tried to get a LGS to sonic clean it (with ultrasound), but it didn't do much for removing the existing FIREClean on it. So I tend to avoid FIREClean nowadays. But YMMV. Just because I had a bad time with it, doesn't mean that you will.

    On a different note, I'm still a fan of bio based lubes. The one I'm currently using is ALG Defense's Go Juice. So that's an alternative to possibly look into and consider. I use the non-toxic as a covering for most areas, but if it slides, I utilize the 0000 version. Note: the 0000 version of GJ is not non-toxic. The carbon buildup still slides right off like it did with FIREClean.

    As for a post-storage report, I just checked the aforementioned 1911. It hasn't gunked up after at least another 6 months of storage with GJ applied to it. The weapon cycled dummy rounds perfectly fine. No problem with ejection either.
    Last edited by sixtwosix; 07-21-2018 at 01:22 AM. Reason: spacing for blocks of texts

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