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Was looking at a .308 Hk clone for sale locally; it is a Portuguese FMP receiver and it is marked G3. The rifle has a pinned on muzzle break, and was imported/ sold during the 1994 AWB, so it has some US made furniture etc. When I asked the seller to remove the butstock for a look at the internals it would not come off; the seller said he has never shot the rifle, and has never tried to dissamble it. The rifle looked pretty decent otherwise, but I thought I would ask here if anyone has heard of this being a problem on FMP stuff. Every other FMP part I have ever seen or owned has worked great.

Anyone have any experience with this particular clone. He said he purchased it around 2002?

Any imput would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Somewhat typical, hammer and punch to gently drive it off. It will loosen up some after being fired and disassembled a number of times.

Bill
 

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I do not have any personal experience with those particular clones. However everything I have ever read rates FMP parts and receivers as very high quality. I do have a new in the white FMP parts kit and the parts are very high quality but I do not own an FMP receiver.

I have seen several new clones where the stock was a little tight. I personally would think this is a good thing and probably an indication that the rifle has hardly ever been apart.

You should be able to remove the stock pins, hold the rifle by the forearm with your left hand and use the Palm of your right hand to pound down and back on the top of the stock. Doing this a few times should be enough to get it loose. If not try the same thing but wrap the stock with a rag and use a small rubber hammer. The stock will loosen up with repeated removal for cleaning so having it tight to begin with is a good thing.
 

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Please make sure that this is not a Franken-gun. SN should appear on receiver, buttstock, etc. (like the original G3's).

Moreover,

1. Left receiver should be marked "G3S", "FMP", serial number and "1/89", "XG3S", "FMP", serial number and "3/89" or "XG3S", "FMP", serial number and "5/89";
2. Right receiver should be marked "MADE IN PORTUGAL/PARS INTERNATIONAL/LOUISVILLE, KY/CAL. .308";

3. PARTS GUN

- Left receiver should read "FMP" only;
- Right receiver should read "INTER ORDNANCE OF AMERICA LP.", "MONROE, NC" "MADE IN PORTUGAL" AND ".308 WIN".

4. PARTS GUN

- Left receiver should read "FMP" only;
- Right receiver should read "Imported by CAI Georgia VT", "Manufactured by Indep", "Portugual", serial number and "G-3".

Number 4. sounds like yours. Personally, I would take a pass!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Please make sure that this is not a Franken-gun. SN should appear on receiver, buttstock, etc. (like the original G3's).

Moreover,

1. Left receiver should be marked "G3S", "FMP", serial number and "1/89", "XG3S", "FMP", serial number and "3/89" or "XG3S", "FMP", serial number and "5/89";
2. Right receiver should be marked "MADE IN PORTUGAL/PARS INTERNATIONAL/LOUISVILLE, KY/CAL. .308";

3. PARTS GUN

- Left receiver should read "FMP" only;
- Right receiver should read "INTER ORDNANCE OF AMERICA LP.", "MONROE, NC" "MADE IN PORTUGAL" AND ".308 WIN".

4. PARTS GUN

- Left receiver should read "FMP" only;
- Right receiver should read "Imported by CAI Georgia VT", "Manufactured by Indep", "Portugual", serial number and "G-3".

Number 4. sounds like yours. Personally, I would take a pass!
In your opinion would it be worth $750.00 if it was #4? I figured I would use the FMP receiver & parts as a building block to build a sear host of some sort. Perhaps dedicate a .22 kit to it.

Thanks for the replies everyone.
 

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I'd say $750 would be a fair price for #4. If the build looks good, bore is in good shape and bolt gap is in spec.

Bill
 

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In your opinion would it be worth $750.00 if it was #4? I figured I would use the FMP receiver & parts as a building block to build a sear host of some sort. Perhaps dedicate a .22 kit to it.

Thanks for the replies everyone.
If new (with good internals), at least one magazine and sling, MAYBE.

Definitely would be better to part out- dealer probably has no market for it- so I would not put any more than $650.00-$675.00 in it. Only my personal opinion.
 

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Put a few hundred rounds through it with the pins removed. That should shake it free.

j/k of course, but it might work.
 

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Use a piece of drill rod and slide it into one of the holes in the retainer plate (buttstock). The rod should be at least a foot long. Remove the rear pins and use the drill rod as a leverage tool with both feet while pulling onto the receiver.

If that does not work, open the jaws to a vise far aprt and use the rod as leverage and lightly tap the rod between the jaws. The muzzle of the rifle should be face down when trying this. If this does not work, then pass on buying the gun. Obviously it's not straight.
 

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Large rubber mallet.

Remove stock pins, hold buttstock in one hand with muzzle pointing down, hit back of pistol grip (asuming it's a metal framed one) with rubber mallet until everything comes apart.

Lube it well prior to reassembly.
 

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stuck stock

Try RDX or C4 with blasting cap. That should work to get the stock off.
best of luck.
 

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1: remove the pins
2: cock the rifle and leave charging handle in slot
3: place a screwdriver into one of the pinholding holes
4: use a rubber mallet to tap on screwdriver shaft. or
4a: wiggle stock back and forth, side to side to gain some movement.
5: add oil if you need around the metal stock end at rear of reciever.
6: look out for flying buttstocks!
 

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1: remove the pins
2: cock the rifle and leave charging handle in slot
3: place a screwdriver into one of the pinholding holes
4: use a rubber mallet to tap on screwdriver shaft. or
4a: wiggle stock back and forth, side to side to gain some movement.
5: add oil if you need around the metal stock end at rear of reciever.
6: look out for flying buttstocks!
this is the best way...
 

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no need to lock it open.(cocking handle)..just looking for trouble.and chipped parts..try not to beat on steel with steel..have had some tight ones in the past. it gets better as time go's on.
 

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Again, a lapping compound, such as Diamond Dust will work wonders on loosening up tight parts. I've used it to "adjust" my V-53 butt cap and now it just drops on and almost falls off. Silky smooth sliding sction. I also ran a reamer through the pin holes so the stock pins just glide in and out very nicely.

You'd swear it was original Krautnik machinery.
 

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Looking for "ballpark" figure of value

Made In Portugal
PARS International
Louisville Ky
Cal .308

G3S FMP 002107
1/89

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated
 
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