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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi guys... wanted to post on my first HK like weapon build ever... I'm a virgin, and this is my first post here, so be kind.:wink:

I ordered these parts for it:
US made Hammer, Sear, and Trigger (HK Parts)
US made Foregrip, with 2 two inch picatinny rails (HK Parts), with a TAL-4 Virtical grip.
UTG Second Gen STANAG quick disconect claw mount, (Amazon)
US made Grip... the one from HK Parts, but I got it in a trade.
C-More Railway 8MOA Red Dot, (Optics Planet)
A3 Retractable Stock (HK Parts)

When I fitted the UTG mount, I had to file the feet of the mount, and the saddle on the reciever (Did this with a needle file.... was a lot of work)...BTW, the marks are from the UTG itself.... before I figured out how to operate the locking mechanism. /doh





It now takes about 12 to 15 lbs of force to lock the mount on... maybe a little more.
I added the C-More Railway...



Here is where I milled the back of the reciever and the grip, where they come together... and later I milled a little out of the stock itself, so that they match up well enough to put the retaining pin in by hand.... The last 1/4 inch requires a good bit of force... but I don't "HAVE" to have a hammer to put it in.




As you can tell, I really didn't care that much what the inside of the A3 Stock looked like, I'll throw on a little paint, and it will be good to go.



Next I added a small 2 inch rail to the Foregrip, on the right side, just like the one that was on the bottom. (This will be for a cheap "Pistol" version of a light/Laser Combo, to throw on if I use it for protection at the house at night. The pistol versions will serve adequately, and they are quick disconnect for ease of convenience.)
Then I added the TAL-4 Foregrip on the bottom.



I recieved the trigger, sear, and hammer today.... She is 922r compliant now and I will start milling the bars out of the magazine well tomorrow,... hopefully...

Here is a couple of pics how she sits atm....enjoy.



After the milling and refinishing is over... I plan on turning it into an SBR... Adding a can after that, then going for Class III greatness....
This is gonna take a while.....
 

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That will end up being a nice little SBR for you congrats. I'm doing the parts saving and round up now for my first complete build
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That will end up being a nice little SBR for you congrats. I'm doing the parts saving and round up now for my first complete build
Thank you....

I've been so nervous during this experience.... and I say experience instead of build because I've never owned a weapon I had to take a dremel and file to before...
If it wasn't for posts on this sight and you tube, I'd have been screwed.
But it just goes to show you, never say never, and you really don't know what you are capable of until you try.

Thanks to everyone here who has posted a how to, or advice on how to fix issues with these clones, MKE may be a high quality clone... but it is far from perfect. Of course I've seen similar posts on genuine HK's as well.

Oh, well... thanks again to everyone anyway. This is truly a "Pro" site.
 

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How are you going about fixing the mag block? Dremel & tile cutting bit like the online video? I am trying to decide between attempting it myself or taking it to my "normal" gunsmith.
 

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After the milling and refinishing is over... I plan on turning it into an SBR... Adding a can after that, then going for Class III greatness....
This is gonna take a while.....
When you say, "... then going for Class III greatness...", do you mean a sear or registered trigger box? If so, why not go with the sear or box FIRST? That'll save you 6 months waiting time and one extra tax stamp?




Oh, wait a sec... it's got the receiver block, right? Forget full auto.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
How are you going about fixing the mag block? Dremel & tile cutting bit like the online video? I am trying to decide between attempting it myself or taking it to my "normal" gunsmith.
Dremel and diamond bits.....

When you say, "... then going for Class III greatness...", do you mean a sear or registered trigger box? If so, why not go with the sear or box FIRST? That'll save you 6 months waiting time and one extra tax stamp?

Oh, wait a sec... it's got the receiver block, right? Forget full auto.
The reciever block can and will come out just like the bars in the magwell.... I'm doing the SBR first, becase I know the process and it is the easiest route...

I need to do alot more research before Class III comes into play....

In Louisiana, I have 2 choices as to Class III dealers anywhere close to me...
Red Jacket Firearms from "Sons of Guns",
or Silver Dollar Pawn from "Cajun Pawn Stars"

I really don't want to be a part of either.
If anyone knows of a Class III dealer close to central Louisiana, that isn't plastered all over TV, please let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I want to SBR this weapon.....

MKE uses heavier 18mm barrels, will the regular aftermarket 3 lug barrels work, or will I have to cut down the18mm.

I'm leaning toward cutting the stock barrel anyway, and threading it to 1/2 X 28. The reason being is I want to buy one can, to swap between my Glock and the rifle.

I need any and all advice on this from anyone with MKE SBR experience, even with 3 lug barrels with 1/2 X 28 threads as well, the pros and the cons... lay it on the line...
 

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Dremel and diamond bits.....


The reciever block can and will come out just like the bars in the magwell....
Yea, that's sort of a bad idea. The blocking bar is required...
 

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I recently saw a video of somebody running an MKE 94k in full-auto. I think it was ghilliebear from this forum, and the MKE wasn't modded out of legal specs?
 

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I want to SBR this weapon.....

MKE uses heavier 18mm barrels, will the regular aftermarket 3 lug barrels work, or will I have to cut down the18mm.

I'm leaning toward cutting the stock barrel anyway, and threading it to 1/2 X 28. The reason being is I want to buy one can, to swap between my Glock and the rifle.

I need any and all advice on this from anyone with MKE SBR experience, even with 3 lug barrels with 1/2 X 28 threads as well, the pros and the cons... lay it on the line...
Easiest/cheapest is to cut down your barrel and thread it. The 3lug can be added so you can have the navy 3lug and threaded barrel so you can also use your thread attach suppressor. The threaded 3lug adapters are easy to find.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Yea, that's sort of a bad idea. The blocking bar is required...
Just shows what I know.... I told you guys, lots more research before full auto.... but with a motivated metal worker and a machine shop... of which I have access to, anything is possible.

Easiest/cheapest is to cut down your barrel and thread it. The 3lug can be added so you can have the navy 3lug and threaded barrel so you can also use your thread attach suppressor. The threaded 3lug adapters are easy to find.
Thank you very much...

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The magwell is now completely un-nuetered, and sporting MKE 30 round mags... It's amazing the difference a 30 round mag makes asthetically... isn't it?

I'm getting all warm and fuzzy imagining her as an SBR.

And now... for the picture I've been waiting for......


 

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Congrats on getting the magwell "right". Any tips or tricks you can give me? I think I'm going to spend some quality time with my 94A2 and Dremel tonight. How many bits did you end up using? Are the blocking bars welded the full length, or just tacked at the ends? Did you polish out the magwell or get everything done with the diamond bit?

Finally...did your MKE come with the slim forearm or the wide? I'm looking for a slim one for mine and would be willing to buy yours if you don't need it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Mine is the wide, but it's not US made, I would buy one made in the USA.. they are cheap and help with 922r.

OK, the hows and whys...

I know everyone says they are welded on the top and bottom only, but I ended up having to grind all of it out. It's not like you can just hit the top and bottom and pull it out.

I used a profesionsl reaming bit from a metal milling machine in a 3/8s drill... It was slow, but thanks to the bit, not too slow. My buddy reamed about 95% of it out with that.

After that, it gets tricky... The diamond bit was ssssslllllllooooowwwwwwww, so we tried the cheap blue metal grinding bits that came with the kit.....
Talk about a cluster, I broke 1 as soon as it touched the metal.
Then my buddy broke out this long barrel shaped but slim blue metal grinding bit he has had for a while. It was like night and day. The moral of the story.... spend lots of money on your bits. More $$$ does equal vastly better quality.
Anyway, the stone finished out the job in record time. Fitting the magazine at various intervals to make sure of clearance.
At home I hit it with some polishing paper... (2000 grit)
Flooded the whole thing with brake cleaner to get the filings out.... but on second thought, I wouldn't do that again. I spent the better part of half an hour cleaning some strange gummy substance off of the receiver.... no clue what it was, but a little elbow grease took care of it.
Next I wiped it down with alcohol and applied the touch up paint.

After an hour, I cleaned, lubed, and reassempled the weapon and took the pic. If you use brake cleaner, do clean and relube the entire weapon...

I have since photochopped a comparison of what it will look like as an SBR.

 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hey guys,

Given all the work I've done on this thing, and the fact the stock is an A3, would I be completely out of line to refer to it as an ATI AT94A3.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
True that, I've been looking at the E&L shrouds for a while....
But then if I get the stamp, I'm going to have to have the barrel work done anyway.... And It will add value If I sell, for the buyer to know the work is already done....

I've been kicking this around for a while, and it seems to be the best to go ahead and dish out the cash.

Or is my reasoning flawed?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Does anyone know whether the AT94 can handle +P+ ammunition?

Also, can you buy and own a Full Auto carrier and lower, without paperwork, if your gun has the block to prevent you from using it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Somebody asked for these over on ARF, so I figure I'll include em here....
/shrug

First where the lower joins the receiver.


The PTR Trigger Pack I'm using...



The Original MKE Trigger Pack, which I'm told is a modified Full Auto Pack... hence the different geometry on the sear pin.

 
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