I owned a police trade-in H&K stamped Benelli M1S90 over 3 years ago, before I had enlisted in the Corps. It was badly beaten and and looked like it hadn't been cleaned in years. Loved the shotgun but had to sell it at a 50% loss to me because I was leaving. I always wanted another one when my career smoothed out.
This was the time. I had another M1S90 set aside for me from the EE on arfcom. And arrived as described condtion: 90%, however dirty as hell. After a thorough cleaning I began looking for a gunsmith who could perfrom the work I always wanted to have done: shorten the LOP from 15" to 13.5" and add a kick-eez recoil pad.
I DID NOT WANT TO DO THIS PROJECT MYSELF.
As many here can relate time is a luxury we dont often get, so I was willing to pay a professional gunsmith to do this. Azexarms, Gunsite, Gray Guns, among others all turned down the job. With no other options I had to do it myself.
Shortening the Stock:
Well thats easy enough. Any type of saw could take it down to the appropriate length perscribed. Then Dremel and flat files to smoot it out. At this point the length of pull was about 12" and about 3/4" away from the recoil system in the buttstock. Perfect.
Installing the Recoil Pad:
While labor-intensive, the results made me confident of my work. Also the gentlemen over at MilitaryMorons.com were able to guide me in the right direction after questioning their own work on a M3.
It would need a new anchor point to hold the recoil pad, so I shaped one to fit the inside of the stock. A wooden dowel of the stiffest type was shaped by belt sander > dremel > hand. This part took the longest. Before installation I matched the Kick Eez recoil pad to the wooden anchor and drilled 1/8" pilot holes into the appropriate locations. One being through a new hole in the pad.
After wrapping the outside with electrical tape and sanding down the inside of the stock with 100 grit sandapaper, I began to mix Marinetex epoxy and after about 5 minutes of playing with the putty it firmed up enough to apply it on the inside of the stock. Then I covered the anchors circumference witht the putty before sliding it in, then turning the muzzle skyward and buttstock toward the deck ensure that the anchor would sit flush with the end of the stock while drying.
A piece of thin cardboard was stuck to the bottom to make sure none of the putty slid out. Two hours later the putty was hard, however I gave it a full 24.
The expoxy now being dry for 24 , I attached the recoil pad (which had sit in the freezer for the past 5 hours to prevent melting on the belt sander) through one factory hole and one custom hole. The fit is rock solid.
Flipped "ON" the Belt sander and began to shape the pad to its final shape. Last passes were done by hand.
Hope this helps all those who want to do this. If you possess a moderately high attention to detail and a couple power tools that are not firearms specific you can do this easily.