Brass only

Did something bad happen??? I use steel case all the time. Put a box of 9 through the 5 and a box of 45 through the UMP conversion just yesterday. No problems at all. I make sure to clean the chamber well.

Would not run. The steel case was sticking in the chamber. Not all the way but enough that it would jam under the bolt or in the breech. I was told even HK says no to steel, I would think it would wear out/break the extractor if it sticks in the chamber.

Yeah... really. I use steel cased 9mm, 223 and 308 in all the HKs AND clones. I haven't really experienced any issues with steel cased ammo. You want issues... try the poly cased 223 if you want to see issues. Turned every one of my 223 roller locks into single shots and were a beyotch to clear the jammed rounds out as well.. Not as bad an idea as using the 308 plastic blanks were, but damned close. The German plastic 308 blanks came out of the 51 looking like popcorn... all twisted and mangles and inside-out looking. Like popcorn.

But no issues with steel. Methinks Joe might still be a bit worried about that... sum ting wong.

If you read the book "Full Circle" one finds out that part of the reason for fluted chamber was to balance the extraction force between steel cases (harder to extract but flow less into the flutes) and brass (easier to extract but flows more into the flutes).

It's all I use. Zero malfunctions.

Hey, if it's good enough for el cheapo shattered, it's good enough for me!! Lol. Jk shattered. Kinda.

I've blasted tons of steel case with no problems in my mp5 .. now in my g3 i had to polish the chamber cause cases would stick .. after polishing the chamber .. i have no problems what so ever...

so from now on i polish all chambers on any h/k i own

BlackScorpion said:

Would not run. The steel case was sticking in the chamber. Not all the way but enough that it would jam under the bolt or in the breech. I was told even HK says no to steel, I would think it would wear out/break the extractor if it sticks in the chamber.

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The difference in cost's between steel and brass is typically enough to cover the costs of a few extra extractors, even if you never need them.

My recommendation is if you are mostly a collector who might take the gun out once or twice a year to shoot a few mags, on up to a light shooter who might shoot a case a year, go with NATO head stamped first line 124 gr ammo (assuming you plan ahead, other wise it will be what ever Wally World has ;-). As you don't have the trigger time and range time to debug any issues that might pop up, besides the difference in cost for one case of ammo per year tends to lost in the lunch and/or coffee money for most. Ideally by a few cases when you can find first line ammo for a fair price.

If you shoot a little more then would look for a better buy and start checking various on line supply houses for lower cost brass ammo, then good surplus (ha now days) and steel case ammo.

My usp40 did not like steel at all I shot two mags and left the rest at the range

My Hk91 and PTR will take steel .308 all day long. The PTR won't take brass right after shooting steel though. I have to clean the PTR in between shooting steel and brass. However the HK eats it all.

The steel I'm using is Tula.

What I've noticed with steel casings is a wide range of methods of production. Different alloy compositions, different hardnesses, different treatments, all have different results in different weapons. Some work, some don't. You might want to try a different brand and see what happens.

I run mostly wolf poly steel in my .308 and 5.56 rifles without any problems at all. I generally run brass in the 9mm, since the price is closer to steel and I prefer 147gr subsonic.

Obiefox said:

I run mostly wolf poly steel in my .308 and 5.56 rifles without any problems at all. I generally run brass in the 9mm, since the price is closer to steel and I prefer 147gr subsonic.

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Which 147 gr 9mm or do you load your own?

Glad to have found this info. I have had this issue with my SR9 for the last 2 shoots. I can put down about 30 rounds and then they start sticking and not ejecting properly causing the round feeding to get all messed up. Will try a new brand this weekend.

After comparing the casings, I can see and feel the fluting in the steel case. Looks like cooked bacon all the way around. The brass case is not much worse then out of a non-fluted pistol. Maybe it needs more break in, but the condition of the case and the fact that it went from stove piping every round with the steel and then no jam at all when changed to brass. Kind of makes me wonder.

I don't think you should be able to "feel" any fluting on the spent cases. The flutes should leave nothing more than powder marks in a properly running roller locked.

John, I shoot a lot of Federal AM Eagle 147gr. suppressed. $220 a case shipped.

Obiefox said:

I don't think you should be able to "feel" any fluting on the spent cases. The flutes should leave nothing more than powder marks in a properly running roller locked.

John, I shoot a lot of Federal AM Eagle 147gr. suppressed. $220 a case shipped.

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Obie I just picked up a box of this this week. Haven't run it yet. How clean is it?

Ok, what about aluminum case ammo? Anyone use this stuff much?

BlackScorpion said:

Ok, what about aluminum case ammo? Anyone use this stuff much?

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Now THAT is one I would avoid like the plague. Maybe it's like steel, and varying manufacturers have different traits, but I'm just not willing to take that plunge. I know of at least two departments (one county, one city, each in different states and using different pistols) that have experienced problems of frequent case splitting with aluminum "training" ammunition, and both have stopped using it for that reason.

Aluminum likes being stretched even less than most alloys of steel, and prefers to tear.