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Discussion Starter #1
I am looking at getting a MP5 clone and was looking for some help. Here are some exterior pics and I will be getting some interior ones later. He is going to check the bolt gap for me as well (.010-.020 is GTG?) What other things can I check for to be sure I don't get a bad one. I will try to fire it before I got it.













 

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Well, these can run perfect out of the box or can need work.

Pics of the bolt group would be good to now if it is one of the MIM or by chance a milled head. Knowing the bolt gap is only good if you know what size rollers it is using.

The exterior looks good, worst case pick up a bolt head and you are set.

I'd like to see the actual trigger pack. All of my TB guns came with his ejector, which is thicker then the factory HK counterpart. Also his pack conversions aren't the cleanest work out there. You can purchase one from either Adam or Robert with great results.

If the asking price isn't bad, go for it. However, considering for $660 you can get a barreled receiver from BMP, I would pay more then $900 for a complete factory coharie with the MIM bolt group.

Financially, you can purchase the barreled receiver, RCM bolt group, semi pack from Robert and have a fine clone for about $1200...
 

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Firing it is the best way to determine whether it works or not. Bring several brands of ammo with you, try 10 rounds of each. Stay away from hollow point ammo in this test. Use 115 or 124 grain FMJ.
 

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Sorry I looked at the email again and it was +6. That is not good right?
That could just be because the current bolt group is out of spec and required such oversized rollers to take up casting problems. In general it just shows a gun with a lot of use on one of the three wear areas (reunion, locking piece, or bolt head). Of course it could be a bad press on the barrel in the trunion.

Anything is fixable with metal, but at what cost. If the deal is good enough, Jeff could fix it right up, or parts swap could fix it. However if the price is higher, then I'd say pass.


If you can shoot it, by all means put a couple hundred rounds through it. If it functions, then your happy, if it jams, start taking $100 bills off the table.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Gun is supposed to have only had 50 rounds through it. Knowing what is known about it what would be a fair price?
 

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Let's see what it might cost:

Bolt head: $199
Locking piece: $40
Trigger pack: $150

Assuming the carrier and recoil rod is fine you are looking at $340. If you need the barrel repressed to properly fix bolt gap, I think it's around $250 with refinish, Jeff recently posted a price list.

I'd offer 850 - 900. You may get a good deal or may save for future work.


One very important thing to note about all TB guns... They have lifetime warranties as long as they are in their stock condition. Under no circumstances should you ever send a gun back with parts he didn't put in the gun as they will not make it back to you. If this gun won't run right you an send it in an he will work in it. I don't know turn around times as I've never sent a gun to him. I just wanted to point this out.

Try and get a deal!
 

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Gun is supposed to have only had 50 rounds through it. Knowing what is known about it what would be a fair price?
When a gun "only" has 50 rounds through it, I'd immediately start to wonder why? Like, was it a bolt action for 50 rounds straight? That would make me unass it too. Guns that work great have hundreds if not several thousand rounds through them. Round count means nothing... until you get it up where some of mine have been. Dyer rebarreled my 51 and forget the 1919A4... I've got enough shot out barrels for that gun to almost rebar my concrete patio.
 

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$900 tops. That is based you you replacing the bolt head and locking piece at a minimum. My Coharie firing pin is starting to mushroom after 2,000 rounds of full auto fire. I would watch the firing pin as well if you decide to buy.

Keep in mind, the Coharie guns can be a great deal, just plan on replacing a few internals worst case scenario.
 

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My 2 cents, +6 rollers on a gun with 50 rounds.... improperly pressed barrel. These guns usually have to have the following replaced to run right: Complete bolt head ( OEM one is MIM cast and not very good), ejector (does not like to See-Saw in the trigger pack freely), cocking tube support ( OEM is plastic)and firing pin. The FP is prone to deformation. The CT support and FP do not impact the function but you will be changing those out at some point anyway. I got one of the last gen guns before they stopped production in 2009 and just changed out the aforementioned and it runs 100 % but the bolt gap is also 0.43mm with standard rollers. Some folks report no problems without changing anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ok I am looking for some more input. Say I did get this and had to have the barrel reattached, replace the bolt and a couple other small replacements. When I got done I would have ~$1500 in it. How good a gun would I have? I have been looking at the Dakota tactical's that HK Parts sells. They have 1 for $2500 with basicly all HK parts(I think). What about Ghillie Bear? What does his sell for?

What I am getting at is would I be better off to buy once and cry once and pay $1K or more and go first class? Feel free to make any comments to help me make up my mind.
 

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Jeff does not sell guns, he makes them. If you get him to repress the barrel and refinish it and you change out the parts that might all run around $500. Your gun then will be as good as any and reliable as well. The above CA89 is an excellent quality piece. It is extremely accurate, aluminum cans @100m no problem. Tb just skrimped on some parts on the coharie guns but the base gun is very sound. With the dakota guns, you get what you pay for as they are very well made and superbly finished. You won't be changing anything on that puppy. Anything else will cost you $1500-2500.
You could by a BMP upper, complete and painted and all you need is a lowergrip frame, FCG and forearm and stock and complete bolt group and come in around $1300-1400. The BMP uppers have steel cocking tube supports. I had all those parts and got a K model for around $600.
 
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