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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I picked up an AP5-P a few weeks ago and have yet to shoot it. I immediately filed a Form 1 and don't want to shoot it until it's approved (hopefully soon).

Being an HK noob, I don't know what to look for in terms of quality, but I will say it looks nice and well put together. However, there are a few things about it that I had questions on

1. The cocking lever support seems to have about 1/8" slop between the end of the cocking lever housing and the bolt. From some research on this forum, it looks like this is somewhat common and probably a non-issue. Is there a way to take up the slop on this piece?

2. The bottom of the magazine catch rubs on the magwell when releasing a magazine, which creates a bit of friction. I'd like to smooth this out a bit. has anyone polished these two surfaces before to smooth out the action when removing a magazine?

Thanks in advance.
 

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I picked up an AP5-P a few weeks ago and have yet to shoot it. I immediately filed a Form 1 and don't want to shoot it until it's approved (hopefully soon).

Being an HK noob, I don't know what to look for in terms of quality, but I will say it looks nice and well put together. However, there are a few things about it that I had questions on

1. The cocking lever support seems to have about 1/8" slop between the end of the cocking lever housing and the bolt. From some research on this forum, it looks like this is somewhat common and probably a non-issue. Is there a way to take up the slop on this piece?

2. The bottom of the magazine catch rubs on the magwell when releasing a magazine, which creates a bit of friction. I'd like to smooth this out a bit. has anyone polished these two surfaces before to smooth out the action when removing a magazine?

Thanks in advance.
Not sure I follow the first question, but if you are referring to the cocking handle, I have a recently purchased AP5P and an SP5 - and both have the same degree of play in the cocking piece. As for the mag well, both of mine rub on the portion of the paddle release that resides in the magwell. that piece polishes itself every time you insert and remove a magazine. Unless the friction is preventing you from easily removing and inserting mags, I would leave it to wear in by itself. I don't believe any of HK's roller guns were ever designed to have mags drop free.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Not sure I follow the first question, but if you are referring to the cocking handle, I have a recently purchased AP5P and an SP5 - and both have the same degree of play in the cocking piece. As for the mag well, both of mine rub on the portion of the paddle release that resides in the magwell. that piece polishes itself every time you insert and remove a magazine. Unless the friction is preventing you from easily removing and inserting mags, I would leave it to wear in by itself. I don't believe any of HK's roller guns were ever designed to have mags drop free.
That's exactly what I'm talking about. It's about an 1/8inch of back and forth play on the cocking handle that rattles when I raise or lower the gun. Same thing on your AP5P and SP5?
 

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That's exactly what I'm talking about. It's about an 1/8inch of back and forth play on the cocking handle that rattles when I raise or lower the gun. Same thing on your AP5P and SP5?
Yep! Same for both. Surprised me, too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yep! Same for both. Surprised me, too.
Without pulling the whole thing apart, I wonder if you could get some kind of shim or something in the cocking tube without disrupting the gas flow to take up the slop.

On the magazine catch rubbing, see the photo below. From what I can tell, the way the paddle release works is it cams the release out when you move the paddle forward. This camming action rotates the mag catch down a bit which causes it to rub on the receiver. See the two pieces rubbing are circled in red in the photo. As you can see I greased the two surfaces to reduce friction when using the paddle release but it didn't do much. This is a complete nitpick, but I'd like a smoother paddle action if it's possible.

Automotive lighting Hood Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive exterior
 

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My AP5-M is awesome. Military finish. ;) Blindfolded and actually shooting it...you wouldnt be able to tell the difference between it and an H&K. I know that opinion won't be popular on an H&K site, and I do want to get an H&K SP5K-PDW...but I'm enjoying the AP5-M immensely in the meantime.
 

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My AP5-M is awesome. Military finish. ;) Blindfolded and actually shooting it...you wouldnt be able to tell the difference between it and an H&K. I know that opinion won't be popular on an H&K site, and I do want to get an H&K SP5K-PDW...but I'm enjoying the AP5-M immensely in the meantime.
Do you own an H&K? Because I've had both, and I could certainly tell the difference. The AP5 is a very good value, but it's not the same.
 

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Yes, I own an SP5. Like I said, blindfolded and shooting...you wont tell the difference in the way they shoot. Sure, the H&K welds look cleaner, and the paint looks nicer. Yeah, yeah...and I get it...an SP5 isnt exactly a SP5K-PDW. You guys know what I'm getting at...to each his own. Like I said...I will get an H&K version.

And this past weekend, 200 more flawless rounds through the MKE. Called over my buddy who is former military and very experienced on many platforms. He said "D**n you, now I have to get one of these MKE".
 

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Not my experience comparing full size guns, while the MKE was very functional the action was a little rougher to the point where I could feel it. You could really tell the difference once a silencer was fitted, the MKE action was more audible.

The metal on the MKE is MUCH softer, my cocking tube was wearing a little bit and the metal was slightlly "mushrooming" right where the charging handle catches. The carriers on the MKE are also considerably softer, drilling them for a removable trip is much easier on drill bits than an HK.

Of course the easiest way to tell is the SEF vs ambi pack, I worry about you if you can’t tell the difference.

Both functional guns, but you can tell the difference if you are a dialed in user.
 

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So blindfolded and shooting it, you can tell the metal was softer. :D

As you put it, the MKE is VERY FUNCTIONAL. Thanks for conceding the point I was making. No need to worry about me...I'll be a-ok.
 

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Not my experience comparing full size guns, while the MKE was very functional the action was a little rougher to the point where I could feel it. You could really tell the difference once a silencer was fitted, the MKE action was more audible.
So blindfolded and shooting it, you can tell the metal was softer. :D

As you put it, the MKE is VERY FUNCTIONAL. Thanks for conceding the point I was making. No need to worry about me...I'll be a-ok.
See above.
 

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Can I just say, for a moment, that I just had the pleasure of reading what appears to be the silliest argument about this platform I have ever read? I am not sure what it means to be a "dialed in user" but I can say I never took a class on how to "feel" my mp5 in comparison to a clone. Maybe that is reserved for only the most elite operators... who knows.

MKE makes a perfectly acceptable weapon... can we all just accept that if you caress and lovingly massage the two, you might find distinguishable and disparate features that could be attributed to one or the other? They might taste differently too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
You should shoot it first (to make sure it functions) and then SBR it.
Yeah I know I should have but short efile times had me drooling, and I don't have a ton of free time these days to test it out before filing.

If it doesn't function, I'm sure I'd be out of a weapon for months sending it back to Century any way. Fingers crossed the form 1 wasn't a waste of time and money.
 

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Yeah I know I should have but short efile times had me drooling, and I don't have a ton of free time these days to test it out before filing.

If it doesn't function, I'm sure I'd be out of a weapon for months sending it back to Century any way. Fingers crossed the form 1 wasn't a waste of time and money.
Honestly, if I had a problem with the one I purchased and it wasn't functioning correctly, I would send it to one of the premiere builders for diagnosis and repair. Century and their warranty dept. leave a lot to be desired, in my book anyway.

Form 1 is always worth it because of the short approvals as of late and that could change very quickly, so get it done while you can while it doesn't take a year.
 
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