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Century Arms CA-3 Initial Impressions

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21K views 97 replies 30 participants last post by  usp9mm  
Two of my friends got CA3s. One is crooked, but runs. The other does not appear to be crooked, but has had about 10% FTEs so far. The crooked one had a refinished trigger housing. The non refinished one looks to be in decent shape though.

I’ve never been able to find a letter for it, but PTR has been leaving their mag release pins unwelded for a while.
I was considering a CA3, but it still sounds like some are slipping through the cracks, even though PTR is doing the majority of the work.

For some reason, I thought they had initially said the price would be around $700, but I don't recall where I heard that.

What I really wanted was a MKE factory-built G3 that was rumored to be coming here - but never did.

I have a Century Cetme C308 that I completely rebuilt/refinished, and it had no major issues, but I may have just been lucky.
 
What thread pitch is the muzzle on the CA-3?
Metric or inch?
I am guessing inch, RH 5/8X24.
Could be metric, RH 15X1.
Thanks for letting me know the rifling is 1 in 10 for the M-80 NATO round.
Most likely, it's going to shoot Federal Gold Medal Match 168gr the best, like the majority of .308 1:10 barrels.

My PTR91 shoots it at 1.3 MOA at 100 yards.
 
The claw mount bumps are not enough to attach a scope mount. The bumps are also machined to have a cut in them to interface with the feet of the claw mount. That and the absence of the proper G3 sight base is a no go for the claw mount. You may be able to attach something but your accuracy will probably suffer. It would have been better if PTR attached a picatinny rail to the top of the receiver. That's what I would do if I had a CA-3 and wanted to mount an optic on it. YMMV
I believe PTR sells a PTR91 GI model, similar to the CA-3, with and without a rail attached.

PTR91 G.I.s (model 100, no optics rail) is currently $1200 at Atlantic.


EDIT: Model 101 has a rail -

 
Well, I decided to pull the trigger on a CA-3 today.

I have a nice set of green German G3 furniture that has been waiting for a home. I'll most likely refinish the metal and add the nice furniture. I'm expecting it to be pretty rough overall. We'll see how it functions and shoots.

CA-3s are out there at a few places for about the same price as Atlantic (currently on sale at $770). I bought from Defense Depot in IL because I like to support gun businesses in IL - they can use it. They have a lot to deal with. They were about $10 more than Atlantic.

I've purchased from Defense Depot before, and they have been good.

 
Picked up my CA-3 yesterday.

About what I expected. Fairly rough in spots. The finish looks to be Parkerizing, which is different from other PTR/Century rifles. The finish looks decent.

The rear sight is smashed, and i called Century to see if they would do anything about it. The guy I talked to in CS said "we no longer service the CA-3". I said no longer - didn't they just come out? He said talk to PTR. I tried to call PTR, but they were not accepting calls. I guess I'll have to email them. (EDIT: just spoke to PTR, and they are sending a new rear sight - no problem)

I had planned to refinish the entire rifle, but probably won't now because it's Parkerized. The lower could use some touch-ups, but it's not bad. The handguard has some corners missing, but I have a decent set of green German furniture I plan to install.

Overall, not bad for right about $800 delivered.

Some photos -
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Your lower is in much better shape finish wise than mine is, but my rear sight wasn't mangled so I guess that's the trade off. Mine is still running strong 500 rounds later with 0 issues other than the 1 FTE I had in the first 150 rounds
I edited my post to include that I spoke to PTR, and they are sending a new rear sight.

They were really good about it, with no hassles. Century had no clue...
 
That phosphate finish is an excellent base for a spray on finish. Degrease thoroughly and apply your favorite finish to make it look like a million $.
I thought about it, but if Park is the correct finish for a Portuguese G3, I will leave it as is.

Judging from the original trigger housing, it's pretty close.

I powder coated my entire C308 in a satin black powder, and I like it, but I want to keep this one looking as original as possible.

C308 -
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CETME looks nice. Your grip frame was refinished after it was clipped to interface with the receiver. The original finish, or what's left of it, is what's on the end plate. Probably was manganese phosphate. To maintain the original appearance I would get it refinished to match or a replacement that was already refinished.
Was it? As Mike 0987 said, his was pretty rough, so it doesn't sound like they completely refinished them. The letters (S, E, F) on the left side don't look like they have been redone.

Not sure if they touched it up after modifying it, but the trigger guard has some open spots and a little rust here and there.

How does manganese phosphate differ, visually, from Parkerizing?
 
I haven't had mine to the range yet, but I did field strip, clean, and lube it last night.

Bolt was ok, but I cleaned it anyway. Bolt gap was .015".

The trigger group was pretty dirty, and the ejector was not moving freely until I cleaned it and lubed it.

Then I noticed the end of the cocking lever spring was sticking out. Either it's not in the right place or the spring broke. I started trying to drive the pin out, but it's pretty snug. The cocking handle is a PTR item as well, and I plan to replace it and the spring.

The pin for the cocking lever is driven out from the bottom, and installed from the top - correct?

EDIT - ^ That is correct.
 
I saw a video the other day about the CA-3 where the guy, an experienced gun-tuber, kept calling it a "Cetme". Then I saw an ad for it at Centerfire Systems that also called it a Cetme.

The Century Cetme is a C308. The CA-3 is a Portuguese G3-based parts kit build with some new U.S. and incorrect parts. It's not a Cetme.

Not sure why they can't get it right.
 
Send your trigger pack and buffer out to Bill Springfield for his trigger job and improved buffer. You will NOT be disappointed. Shameless plug for Bill. LOL

I actually received and installed his buffer kit today. I have installed the kits in all my G3-pattern rifles.

Dealing with the 8# trigger for now.
 
Made a few improvements and replaced the damaged rear sight.

Ready to hit the range and see how it does. My other .308 Century/PTR rifles like Federal 168gr GMM. The Cetme C308 shoots about 2 MOA (iron sights) and my PTR91 DMR has done 1.3 MOA at 100.

I'll be happy if this is in the 2.5 MOA range at 100 with iron sights. The G3 sights are OK, but not the best for precision for me at this point.
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I was looking for something to put my decent German green furniture on, and this fit the bill - which was right about $800 delivered.

I know it's just a mixmaster of parts - but I like!
 
Had my CA-3 out for the first time this weekend.

Not great results.

I shot some Saltech and Igman M80 equivalent, and also some 168gr GMM. None of it was better than maybe 4 MOA - even the GMM. Some of it can be attributed to me and my struggles with open sights, so chances are it's better than that. I actually had the wrong shooting glasses on, which didn't help.

One issue did come up, and I need to talk to PTR about it (Century doesn't do any warranty work on the CA-3).

The rear sight is all the way over to the right, and it's still consistently shooting left. The elevation is also off, and I was using the "4" (400) setting on the rear sight to get the POI to be on the POA at 100 yards.

How is the elevation adjusted on the HK-style rear sight?

It did function fine all day with no issues.
 
I have a pair of these I've been toying with. I can only echo what has already been said in the not so great column. My primary gripe is with sight alignment, both rifles shooting extreme left. One will zero right at the edge of the rear sight's limit, the other won't zero any closer than around 2moa left before running out of adjustment. I think I'll make that one a scoped rifle, now that I think I finally have an answer to the nearly three feet low elevation problem I've been chasing.

I can understand (somewhat) PTR's possible reluctance in building a super cheap gun that would compete with its better built and more expensive brand labeled models. But it really seems like they went out of their way to try to make these just bad enough to convince people to pony up a bit more and buy a PTR. The missing scope mount pad/lug, missing cuts on the bulges, and lack of finishing gives that attitude away. But not being able to zero the irons is either complete BS quality control, or a **** move. And PTR has been welding these things together straight with little to no issue for years. That kind of narrows it down.
I'll let you know if they fixed that issue with mine.

The sheet that they sent back with it said "bore sighting" or something, but not "realignment of front sight tower" or anything like that.
 
Also, for those who know me, I’ve got a pretty bad back injury from about 10 years ago. I don’t generally shoot a lot of heavy recoiling rifles anymore. Not that .308 is that bad but regardless, more than I typically shoot a lot of. Will the improved buffers really help with recoil? Should I get a muzzle brake? What’s the best way you’ve found to kind of tamp down recoil on the G3 platform? Really want to like and keep this one but if it kicks my ass, I don’t know that I will.
I have the upgraded (Bill Springfield) buffers in my G3-pattern rifles, but I've not compared them to a standard buffer back to back. Other have said they do reduce recoil.

A good Muzzle Brake will help, but not with your relationship with other shooters on the line.

The M21 buttpad will help spread out the force to your shoulder.

Changing the locking piece (LP) may help to slow the carrier and reduce recoil somewhat.

Are you shooting factory ammo or reloading? There is factory "Lite" ammo (usually 125gr) that would reduce the recoil as well, but it's going to be rather pricey compared to standard M80.

Making sure the rifle is in-spec as far as the bolt gap, recoil spring, buffer, etc. is also a good idea
 
I currently only have one box of .308. Can’t remember the manufacturer but it’s like 150Gr. Maybe PMC Bronze. I don’t know what ° locking piece these come with. What degree is recommended for a 150gr because I’m assuming that’s probably most of what I’ll be shooting.
The standard LP is 45 degree.

I have a 36 degree (#17) in my PTR, and it functions fine, but I didn't notice a huge reduction in recoil.

There is also a 40 degree if a 36 won't function consistently.