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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm wondering how often I need to clean the firing pin channel on my P2000, and also how difficult this is to do. I have a friend whose Glock stopped functioning due to crap in the striker channel, and I'd like to ease my mind about this on my P2000.

Thanks.
 

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I scrub around the fireing pin everytime I clean my Glock. Their isnt alot of build-up but their always some black stuff on the rag after.

I have yet to shoot my Heckler & Koch USP Tactical but from the manual the USP seems a little more buggy about cleanliness. just dont put any lube on it.
 

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Be at ease....

I have 35k rounds through an Expert, and the firing pin channel was fine. The extractor groove, however, was very dirty.
 

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I shot probably 10-15,000 rounds through one of my USP's without anything but a standard field strip clean. I sent one back to the factory for a LEM conversion and Travis the armorer mentioned that my firing pin channel was so clogged, he was suprised that it was functioning. He also said I had a large amount of buildup under the extractor.

Needless to say, I'm not much of an armorer, but it appears you don't have to clean it too often. ;)

Doc
 

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My USP45 is very problematic if the firing pin isn't kept clean. It'll start to light strike the primer if it is dirty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Does anyone know how to actually clean the firing pin channel on a P2000? I can't figure out how to get in there.

Also, is it difficult to remove the extractor for cleaning?
 

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Pop the roll pin towards the middle to remove the firing pin. The other roll pin to the side is for the extractor.
 

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Not supposed to lube the firing pin? I usually put some rem oil in the hole, then hit the hole with compressed air. It's worked great so far.
Why would you not oil the firing pin? buildup?
 

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Does anyone know how to actually clean the firing pin channel on a P2000? I can't figure out how to get in there.
Filled with Hoppe's #9.
 

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Actually, all I have ever done to clean the the fireing pin hole is use snap caps. Useing snap caps knocks out some of the crud. I've never had a problem.
 

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The major problem with gunk in the firing pin "channel" is more of an issue when guys spray stuff into it, and when normal fouling gets rubbed into it through the firing pin hole during cleaning. When the cartridge is fired, the firing pin hole is tightly covered. . . hence it is very unlikely that any of the normal fouling goes in there upon firing. It is upon cleaning that the majority of crud ends up in there. When you clean the breech-face, you've gotta be careful not to push fouling into it, and EXTRA careful not to spray anything in there. Another potentially serious problem with spraying is that if you get oil in there, it can leak out into the primer of a round in the chamber (especially if your weapon is in a downward-facing holster). Most all reloaders know that the way to render a primer unfireable is simply to spray penetrating oil on it. We usually do that to all live primers that need to be discarded for whatever reason. If you have oil in your FP hole, you very well may get a failure to fire at a critical moment due to penetrating oil leaking into the primer of your chambered round. . . very not cool.

If you think you have crud in there, take it apart and clean it carefully. Lube it lightly and wipe it back off. Thereafter, do not spray anything in there, and try hard not to rub crud into it when you clean. :)
 

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I read this old thread which caused me pause.

Does not the mannual say to put some lube in the firing pin and extractor areas? Pages 42-43 of p2000SK mannual. Light lube for slide internals and medium lube for extractor.

I have asked about disassembling the slide before and many told me to not attempt it. Now I am hearing this will eventually be necessary. Can someone clear up my confusion on this issue. Thanks.
 

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If you have oil in your FP hole, you very well may get a failure to fire at a critical moment due to penetrating oil leaking into the primer of your chambered round.
What are the chances that you could accumulate that much oil to penetrate a primer and cause failure ~ my assessment = zero.

Any method of applying a lubricant isn't a factor (spray, swab, wipe..whatever) as long as you leave the proper amount where it needs to be.

...and who uses penetrating oil on a gun anyway?
 

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these birchwood casey synthetic gun formula solvents have enough propellant to strip any and all residues and oils from your pistol. Of course this means you gotta replace all the protective oils and lubricants you just blasted out. I also don't see how you can even accumulate enough residue inside the 'firing pin channel' to cause actual operative failures, but then again I clean my guns after every trip to the range. At any rate the normal cleaning procedure will pretty much suffice for basic firearm maintenance, compressed air is a plus if you can be meticulous enough to not blast residues _into_ that channel.
 

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Question about this...

Why not just strip the slide and clean the channel and the firing pin? Does it void the warranty?
 
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