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Discussion Starter #1
I am looking at how registered SEF packs (like the DLOs) are converted to burst and/or Ambi/Navy. From what I can see the selector axle hole needs to be opened up from 5/16 to circa 1/2, and asymetrical cuts made to openings, on the left a "notch" and on the right an enlarged circular area. The challenge here seems to be drilling a pretty big hole in the pack, with the risk that if the bit grabbed the work you could do some damage. To avoid this, I have thought about using a water jet to get a nice round hole you could ream or bore to size and then notch. Local quote to do this kind of water jet work was ~$300, setup and cut, getting the hole to exact size and notching it would be extra. After addressing the selector, both burst and Ambi/Navy packs need 2 holes drilled, the "Safety Release Lever Pin" hole and "Safety Release Lever Spring Pin" hole toward the lower rear of the pack. This work would seem to be pretty standard drill and ream to get the pin holes. At this point I think you have an Ambi/Navy pack, right? The last step to go from Ambi/Navy to burst is installing a "Counting Wheel Stop Pin" in the upper rear right side of the pack near the "web plate." In reading the HK armorer's manuals, this is called a pin, which normally means something that goes all the way through the pack, but is acually an "anvil," i.e. it protrudes into the pack on the right side similar to the "trigger tail stop anvil." In looking at part numbers, there are 3 different part numbers for packs: SEF, Ambi/Navy, and Burst. There are also 3 different part numbers for triggers, but it looks to me like an Ambi/Navy trigger is just a Burst trigger w/o the "sear release latch" parts installed. So my questions are:

1. Are there really 3 different packs (SEF, Ambi/Navy, Burst) and do they all start out life as SEF packs?
2. Is the Counting Wheel Stop Pin really a pin or is it an anvil? How is it attached if it is a an anvil and what would be the best way to add one to a registered SEF pack?
3. Can a burst pack be used with Ambi/Navy parts? I presume the presence of a Counting Wheel Stop Pin would not interfere with the Ambi/Navy internals.
4. Is an Ambi/Navy trigger just a Burst trigger w/o the sear release latch?
 

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Are you thinking of sending your pack off to a smith, or thinking about doing this yourself? If the latter, you are much braver than I.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Are you thinking of sending your pack off to a smith, or thinking about doing this yourself? If the latter, you are much braver than I.
Ha! For sure off to a 'Smith, or some kind of aerospace fabrication plant... I just want to understand the packology of HK and the process and options for each step of the conversion. Doug's packs are a rare chance to work on NOS in the NFA world, and with prices where they are (and where they are going) I would want to do the work w/o any compromises or "corner cutting" caused by ignorance. Also, since conversion is pretty much a one-way street, I want to be sure I wind up in a place I am happy with.
 

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I'll see what I can conjur-up for you as far as documentation on the conversion. It's not that difficult to do if you have a Bridgeport with a DRO.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Chopstix: What would the setup be for cutting the selector hole bigger given the notch on the left side of the pack? One big drill or will the DRO let you take cuts at it that will make for less risk of the tool grabbing the work? I also find the welding part a bit of voodoo and I am sure I am likely over thinking it. But I don't understand how HK attaches "anvils" in a pack and the more I read about the heat affected zone, various welding options, the more it makes my head spin.
 

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I'll see what I can conjur-up for you as far as documentation on the conversion. It's not that difficult to do if you have a Bridgeport with a DRO.
Hey Chops:
I'm interested in the info on the registered SEF pack conversion, too.
Both the ambi-navy and burst conversions.

Are you aware of any HK smiths who have done these?

Thanks,
 

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Talk to w/Michaels Machines, he can do it.
Indeed... he was contemplating picking them ALL up a couple years ago for his MM-23s. The intent, as he told me then, was to convert them all to 2/3rd burst packs.
 

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Use a 1/4" end mill on a cnc to open up the hole, then an 1/8" end mill to do the notches. If I was a ffl07/c2 I would be converting them all day.
 

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Why do you think you need a 07/c2 ffl to do that machine work? You aren't making them full auto or anything...
 

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Grand Chazzar
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You guys got me thinking .....
I just tore down SEF pack from the 53 & my ambi pack from my k ....
I'd drill/ mill that hole with the quickness ......
As far as the notches
The one on the left hand side is offset to like the 7oclock position
The other side appears straight down at 90 deg ........
From just looking at it this process would be straight foward & pretty easy .
I guess it would be easier with a "DRO" but surely not mandatory.
 

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Well, most likely what we are talking about is registered sears in packs getting called "registered packs". There really aren't anything out there in heavy enough numbers to be "converting them all day". There are FAR more guys with registered sears sitting in SEF packs that might want the service. That said, they could remove the sear and send you the plain-jane, run of the mill, non-registered trigger box for you to machine.

Trust me... there aren't enough registered trigger boxes out there to warrant getting licensed for just that.
 

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Grand Chazzar
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Mixed emotions.......
Glad for your New DLO purchases !!!
Sad, cause I think there's only one left ! If that .......
 

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Talk to w/Michaels Machines, he can do it.
fwiw -
I spoke with Mike Otte @ Michaels Machines re: this topic
Def. the right guy for the job.
He has done these before & actually seemed pretty excited at the prospect of doing more DLO burst-pack conversions...
 
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