[Demon_Mustang]

Hello, I don't have experience with H&K's but am interested in converting a SL8 into a G36C. I was wondering if anyone can guide me in doing this. I need to know all the parts that I would need and the things I would need to do. Can I install the barrel and things like that safely myself or would I need to bring it to a gunsmith?

Also, should I get the SL8-1 or SL8-6?

Anyway, assume I have no clue where to start, which is pretty much true, lol.

I own and have experience with many other firearms, but not a clue about H&K's.

Just a reminder, I am interested in the G36C version.

One thing though, I don't want to go the Class III route so I want to stick to a 16" barrel, so I was wondering, does the G36 handguard (longer) fit into the G36C upper which normally had a very short little handguard?? Also, does the G36C flash suppressor fit on a regular G36 16" barrel??

Thanks for any help.

 

[Liquidous]

If you want to stay away from class 3 you cant do a G36C. The only difference between the G36C and E is the barrel, handgaurd, and a Slightly shorter stock. You want to do a G36E if you want a 16" barrel. You can change out every part yourself, but you will need a barrel wrench to remove the barrel. It will be cheaper to have the SL8 barrel milled down to 16", and use a G36E handgaurd, and you could use a G36C flash hider if you got the barrel treaded right, but it might look weird. It might be easier for you to get a SL8-6 since it already comes with a G36E handgaurd, and you wont have to dye the gun even though that is really easy to do. You probably want to have the magwell cut professionally done to accept G36 mags, and you'll need either a M16 magwell or a G36 magwell, and a G36 bolt head. The optics is up to you if you want to spring for a dual optics carry handle or just keep the simple sight rail and put a scope or red dot on it. If you want the pistol grip and folding stock I recommend the HDPS stock block, in fact I recommend to have all the work done by Ed down at HDPS.

So the parts you need are:
M16/G36 magwell
G36 bolt head
G36E handgaurd
HDPS stock block
G36 semi pistol grip lower
G36C folding stock
dual optics (if you want them)

Work you need done:
Mill down sl8 barrel to 16"
magwell cut

Clear as mud right?

 

[dwillHK]

Also, since you aren't SBRing the gun, you'll need a number of US made parts to get the parts count down to be legal.

 

[Liquidous]

It might be a good idea to make a sticky of this.

 

[SAKO]

+1 on HDPS

I would also recommend Ed at HDPS. I did a non SBR and provided TN U.S. made Gas piston, bolt head, covington (fixed) stock and base plate/followers made by Tbostic from this site to get correct parts count to use G36 magwell/mags.

Cutting down the barrel means you (he) has to open the gas port hole, which probably is not a big deal, but not a job I felt comfortable doing. Cutting down the barrel, too (refinish)

You can get the US parts from:

https://www.shop.black-market-parts.com/displayProductDocument.hg?productId=36&categoryId=4

I sold the AR-15 magwell for $125 in about ten minutes on Gunbroker. That paid for the G36 magwell and a mag.

You could probably do the work yourself but just by the fact you are on this site proves you appreciate quality firearms, and Ed's work is outstanding. I feel much better knowing a reputable gunsmith did my gun, which also sounds better on a resale post IMO.

The HDPS website is here (conversion page):

http://www.hdps.org/htm/5-1-1.htm

I copied his price list directly from the page into an email, then deleted the stuff I did not need or want to have him do, then added up the total at the bottom. I sent him the email telling him I was shipping, and printed the email, threw it in the box with the SL8 + parts, and 5 days later whistlin dixie....

Oh yeah.. don't forget the check.

 

[Javier]

What he said! ++++++

I would also recommend Ed at HDPS. I did a non SBR and provided TN U.S. made Gas piston, bolt head, covington (fixed) stock and base plate/followers made by Tbostic from this site to get correct parts count to use G36 magwell/mags.

Cutting down the barrel means you (he) has to open the gas port hole, which probably is not a big deal, but not a job I felt comfortable doing. Cutting down the barrel, too (refinish)

You can get the US parts from:

https://www.shop.black-market-parts.com/displayProductDocument.hg?productId=36&categoryId=4

I sold the AR-15 magwell for $125 in about ten minutes on Gunbroker. That paid for the G36 magwell and a mag.

You could probably do the work yourself but just by the fact you are on this site proves you appreciate quality firearms, and Ed's work is outstanding. I feel much better knowing a reputable gunsmith did my gun, which also sounds better on a resale post IMO.

The HDPS website is here (conversion page):

http://www.hdps.org/htm/5-1-1.htm

I copied his price list directly from the page into an email, then deleted the stuff I did not need or want to have him do, then added up the total at the bottom. I sent him the email telling him I was shipping, and printed the email, threw it in the box with the SL8 + parts, and 5 days later whistlin dixie....

Oh yeah.. don't forget the check.

 

[Demon_Mustang]

"If you want to stay away from class 3 you cant do a G36C. The only difference between the G36C and E is the barrel"

Ok correct me if I'm completely retarded, but there is one more major difference between a G36E and G36C, and that is the carrying handle versus the top rail with iron sights... I want the G36C top rail with a G36E handguard and barrel.

I really dislike the built in optics and carrying handle of the regular G36.

Anyway, another question is, generally the rule is that you can fire .223 ammo out of a rifle chambered for 5.56mm but you cannot fire 5.56mm rounds out of a rifle chambered for .223 ammo because the military 5.56 round is of higher grains or something like that. Is this true for the SL8 barrel? If so, would I need to change more parts for it to work with 5.56mm ammo, like maybe a heavier recoil buffer spring, mil-spec barrel, etc.???

 

[Liquidous]

"If you want to stay away from class 3 you cant do a G36C. The only difference between the G36C and E is the barrel"

Ok correct me if I'm completely retarded, but there is one more major difference between a G36E and G36C, and that is the carrying handle versus the top rail with iron sights... I want the G36C top rail with a G36E handguard and barrel.

I really dislike the built in optics and carrying handle of the regular G36.

Anyway, another question is, generally the rule is that you can fire .223 ammo out of a rifle chambered for 5.56mm but you cannot fire 5.56mm rounds out of a rifle chambered for .223 ammo because the military 5.56 round is of higher grains or something like that. Is this true for the SL8 barrel? If so, would I need to change more parts for it to work with 5.56mm ammo, like maybe a heavier recoil buffer spring, mil-spec barrel, etc.???

The optics are not specific to the different versions on the G36 series, all the optics options will fit all the varients. In other words you can put the simple sight rail with iron sights on a G36E, or put the dual optics carry handle on the G36C. I have fired both 223 and 5.56 out of the stock sl8 barrel that is specifically ment for 223 and had no problems, I now have the G36K barrel on my gun and I have fired both rounds thru it with no problems. I think of the SL8 as the sniper varient of the G36 series which was designed for 5.56mm, the recoil spring, and buffer for the Sl8 and G36 are identical. You might be able to squeeze a little more accuracy from the sl8 barrel with 223 ammo instead of 5.56, since it was designed for it, but its not that big a deal.

It will all be made clear to you when your holding the gun in your hands.

 

[Demon_Mustang]

Well, you CAN shoot 5.56mm ammo out of any rifle chambered for .223 ammo, but it's not a good thing. The problem is that from what I know military 5.56mm ammo is heavier than .223 and if you constantly run large amounts of 5.56 ammo out of a rifle chambered for the .223 you run the risk of it weakening and blowing up on you, lol. Anyway, I'm not sure if that's an issue with the SL8 barrel, but do they sell G36 barrels separately? I don't like buying .223 ammo, I buy 5.56 ammo bulk... Have been for my Rock River AR15.

Oh, also, do they make stripper clips and stripper clip guides for G36 magazines? Or do you think G36 magazines will be so expensive that I might as well get the AR15 magazine well for it??

 

[Liquidous]

Well, you CAN shoot 5.56mm ammo out of any rifle chambered for .223 ammo, but it's not a good thing. The problem is that from what I know military 5.56mm ammo is heavier than .223 and if you constantly run large amounts of 5.56 ammo out of a rifle chambered for the .223 you run the risk of it weakening and blowing up on you, lol. Anyway, I'm not sure if that's an issue with the SL8 barrel, but do they sell G36 barrels separately? I don't like buying .223 ammo, I buy 5.56 ammo bulk... Have been for my Rock River AR15.

Oh, also, do they make stripper clips and stripper clip guides for G36 magazines? Or do you think G36 magazines will be so expensive that I might as well get the AR15 magazine well for it??

You can find G36 barrels on here or gunbroker now and again. The Sl8 barrel is super strong and thick, I doubt it would ever "blow up". G36 mags do have a stripper clip guide but you can also use a g36 beta mag loader on normal g36 mags, the mags themselves run about $50, maybe a little cheaper if you find a good deal, but if you go with the M16 mags I really like the HK 416 mags, which are about $45 each, both are very strong and reliable.

 

[Demon_Mustang]

Cool, cool, all good information. Thanks.

I think I might still would want to go with a G36 barrel instead of the SL8 barrel even if there is no risk to personal safety. Since the barrel for 5.56mm would fire 5.56mm rounds more accurately.

Also, I contacted the guys at HDPS.org, but has not heard anything back from them. Do any of you know any information regarding how to get a gun converted by them? Or can recommend anyone else who would do conversions like the things I talked about?

Basically, here is what I want:
G36 barrel and fore grip
G36C folding stock
G36C top rail with iron sights
chambered for 5.56mm NATO rounds

Thanks for all the help so far.

 

[Liquidous]

Going with an actual G36E barrel is going to cost you alot more than having the sl8 barrel milled down but I agree the G36 barrel would look and perform better. I havent seen many G36E barrels for sale but they are out there. HDPS has all the stuff you need for the stock and pistol grip. Its easier to email him your order then just call him later with credit card info.

 

[SAKO]

step one: open wallet.

Quote

"Basically, here is what I want:
G36 barrel and fore grip
G36C folding stock
G36C top rail with iron sights
chambered for 5.56mm NATO rounds"

If that is what you want, you will also need:

stock block
US made bolt head
US made gas piston
US made mag follower/baseplate
US made sear/trigger or KAC forend
Factory HK g36 lower

your biggest problem right now is US parts count. TN sear/triggers are sold out, and to get the bolt/piston your gonna have to dig deep or get a TN folder kit and resell the magwell and stock (you can use the magwell and make up 3 parts count using AR mags)

I would gather your parts up, check the HDPS website for stuff they have available, then read the post I put up on the first page of this thread. You tell Ed at HDPS you are shipping with the parts and the money, and you will get confirmation.

 

[LongDuck]

An interesting sidenote is that the SL8 'Target Barrel' is nothing more than a G36 barrel which hasn't been turned down to reduce weight and provide for the front bayonet lug mount. This means that the chamber was formed on the very same mandrel as a G36 barrel would be - so there will not be any difference in accuracy, reliability, or any other facet of 5.56 vs. .223 chambering.

Something to think about.

The SL8 derives its better accuracy from the better barrel harmonics of a full profile bore which has not been cut down, causing inconsistencies in barrel tension and potential problems with increased barrel whip due to less mass. A user here years ago had his SL8 barrel turned down to G36 specs and accuracy suffered horribly. The exterior machining of the G36 is to German Bundeswehr specs and as such is more dependent on final weapon weight than greatest accuracy.

If there's one thing that the SL8 in the US delivers above a German G36, it's accuracy with the right ammunition.

 

[Liquidous]

I thought that might be the case, now I dont feel bad shoting all that 5.56 out of my sl8 barrel. Man HK thinks of everything.

 

[SAKO]

US made G36 parts on WTS board

Here ya go, everything your going to need for a good price...(not my post)

http://hkpro.com/forum/showthread.php?t=62267

 

[940curtis]

What ever the SL8 barrel is made of it is hard stuff.
I cut mine down to 16"1/4" and then milled out a four prong hider down 3".
It took forever and wore out carbide tools.

The guy that turned down his barrel might have got it hot (not good) while turning.

If the SL8 barrel came off the same line as the g36 i bet the SL8 barrels were hand picked

 

[Paletiger13]

hey Curtis

What ever happened with your project?

 

[Demon_Mustang]

Alright, this is sounding more and more complicated. I thought all it was, was replacing some furniture and that's it. I didn't know it involved changing the bolt, sear, and all that stuff...

Maybe there's a reason why I never ventured into the H&K market, too complicated... Oh well, maybe one day I'll find someone selling an already converted SL8 that's similar to what I want and I can just buy it off of that person, lol.

 

[hooktanker]

HK's are one of those things where you get what you pay for. I have never been dissapointed with mine. I'm in a similar situation as you with the conversion delema. alot of it (for me anyway) is waiting to find that one part that will make it unique. don't write it off just yet.