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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Just received the Match trigger kit and was wondering if there is a difference between the Match trigger hammer and the Standard USP hammer...Maybe it's my novice eye that sees no difference...let me know..

Just noticed that the hammer is not all metal for both the standard USP and Match. Interesting.
 

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The nub is rubber but the rest of the hammer is metal. There is also an S stamped on the left side of the Match trigger, which stands for Streichholz.
Seriously, I'd like to know that as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
The nub is rubber but the rest of the hammer is metal. There is also an S stamped on the left side of the Match trigger, which stands for Streichholz.
Seriously, I'd like to know that as well.
I noticed the "S" thanks for letting us know what it stood for.

Streichholz is "Match" right?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I guess the only difference between the Match Hammer and the Standard USP hammer is the "S" Streichholz engraved on the side.
 

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the sear notch in the match hammer is a little shallower than the standard hammer for reduced creep.

Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #7
the sear notch in the match hammer is a little shallower than the standard hammer for reduced creep.

Bill
I would have never known! Great to know the slight difference. Thanks!
 

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Gonna bring this back for a moment. Found this while searching for info for another thread. Anyway, I have a USP 45 Expert with a match hammer...has the S stamped on the side. It also came with a bobbed hammer so it could fit the dimensions for competition, I presume. This bobbed hammer is different from my other bobbed hammers though. It has an 'E' stamped on the side and the tip of the bobbed part, while the exact same shape as my other bobbed hammers, has a rubber end. Have had this thing in my Expert bag since 01 and never took it out until tonight for reference. Anyone know what the 'E' is for? I'll feel stupid if it's simply for 'Expert'.
 

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They are both polished on the bottom and the rubber seems to be indentical. I wonder if there is a weight difference between the standard and match hammer?
 

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They are both polished on the bottom and the rubber seems to be indentical. I wonder if there is a weight difference between the standard and match hammer?
I read you have just installed a Match trigger kit. Does your hammer have a "S" on it?
 

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I read you have just installed a Match trigger kit. Does your hammer have a "S" on it?
Mine does, you can see it pretty clearly here:
http://www.hkpro.com/forum/showthread.php?t=166740

FWIW my USP is fairly old so my hammer was all metal and didn't have the rubber bit on it. Thought they all came that way until recently. Glad they changed it thou, I've done so much snap cap work with the old trigger my thumb wore off the finish on my original.

-Sean
 

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As Bill said, the Match hammer has a shallower sear notch cut into it. It also has more of a neutral angle to the cut of the sear notch (AKA hammer hooks).

If you watch really closely when you cock your standard USP 45 and slowly pull the trigger. . . you will see that as you pull the trigger, the hammer cocks a little more before it is released by the sear. This makes the engagement of the two parts a little more positive, and less able to go full auto by accident or wear. The geometry of the Match hammer has less postive engagement with the sear, such that when you cock your USP Tactical 45 and slowly pull the trigger. . . you will see that as you pull the trigger, the hammer almost doesn't move at all before it is released by the sear. The more neutral engagement and the shallower notch combine to make a nicer trigger pull & break with less creep. But it's engagement surfaces require very careful geometry to avoid unintentionally going full auto.
 

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As Bill said, the Match hammer has a shallower sear notch cut into it. It also has more of a neutral angle to the cut of the sear notch (AKA hammer hooks).

If you watch really closely when you cock your standard USP 45 and slowly pull the trigger. . . you will see that as you pull the trigger, the hammer cocks a little more before it is released by the sear. This makes the engagement of the two parts a little more positive, and less able to go full auto by accident or wear. The geometry of the Match hammer has less postive engagement with the sear, such that when you cock your USP Tactical 45 and slowly pull the trigger. . . you will see that as you pull the trigger, the hammer almost doesn't move at all before it is released by the sear. The more neutral engagement and the shallower notch combine to make a nicer trigger pull & break with less creep. But it's engagement surfaces require very careful geometry to avoid unintentionally going full auto.
That makes sense. Yes, mine does have a S marked on it. At first I thought it was lighter because coming from the stock hammer, it seemed like the match happer was hitting soo much softer. I think I perceived it that way because of what orfeo just said. I did notice the action you talked about. It's amazing how precise all the parts fit.
 

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Weird my hammer has a "2" on it. My originals have an "S". My HK installed 2 piece catch kit (newer style) has an "S." My newest Match trigger kit has a "2" with no "S." I am not a fan of the newer 2 piece catch kit, the older kit is much smoother.
 

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Weird my hammer has a "2" on it. My originals have an "S". My HK installed 2 piece catch kit (newer style) has an "S." My newest Match trigger kit has a "2" with no "S." I am not a fan of the newer 2 piece catch kit, the older kit is much smoother.
The V1 spurred hammer has a "2" on it. Are you sure it's a Match hammer?
 
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