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I'm thinking about having both my HK-91A3 (IB) and HK-93A3 (IB) refinished in the Duracoat "HK Blue/gray" finish. Has anybody used this product on their own HK rifles and if so, how close is the Duracoat finish to the original HK factory finish from the early 80's??

If it's not an exact matching color/shade, how close is it?? Is it lighter or darker??

Also, if you have any photos, please post one if possible.

Thanks!!

BTW, both my Cali-DOJ HK-94A3 (IK) and my SP-89 (IK) will soon be refinished in the duracoat "HK Black" sometime in the very near future!!!
 

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one of them makes a gun blue color
(to look like it was blued)

we did a run of AK's in it. and it looked like the Hk Blue Gray finnish
thats the best iv seen at this point
 

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Dura Coat

Hi,
I have used the Blue/Gray DC HK finish and it is dead on. You need to use a strong mix on the harderner to get the gloss close.
On the HK/Nato Black finish, it is great. I have been doing custom AK's in the finish and they are just knockouts! The Yugo and Polish finishes are so close that most people think that they are factory when finished.
I'm refinishing all of my clones in Duracoat due to the finishes on them being so sketchy.
The top 3 krinks are finished in HK/Nato Black. Hope this helps.
P.
 

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Could you please explain why?Thanx
Several reasons -

The parkerizing give a surface that is great for the duracoat to adhere to.

If you nick, scratch, or wear the duracoat away over time, the parkerizing underneath is dark as well, so it won't show shiny metal underneath.

The parkerizing is corrosion resistant in itself, so when duracoat is added on top of it, it is an extremely durable and corrosion resistant finish.

And there are probably other reasons as well I'm missing.
 

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Several reasons -

The parkerizing give a surface that is great for the duracoat to adhere to.

If you nick, scratch, or wear the duracoat away over time, the parkerizing underneath is dark as well, so it won't show shiny metal underneath.

The parkerizing is corrosion resistant in itself, so when duracoat is added on top of it, it is an extremely durable and corrosion resistant finish.

And there are probably other reasons as well I'm missing.
Aviator Dave nailed it; the parkerizing makes for a great base coat. My 33 was refinished in Duracoat without the parkerizing and the finish is wearing through on the sharp edges; my G3 was parkerized first and then coated and the wear is night and day between the two.
 

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Aviator Dave nailed it; the parkerizing makes for a great base coat. My 33 was refinished in Duracoat without the parkerizing and the finish is wearing through on the sharp edges; my G3 was parkerized first and then coated and the wear is night and day between the two.
I was thinking of parkerizing these two MP5 flats I have, even before I fold them up. Besides needing to scrape a little off to get good welds, any reason anyone thinks that would be a problem?
 

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I was thinking of parkerizing these two MP5 flats I have, even before I fold them up. Besides needing to scrape a little off to get good welds, any reason anyone thinks that would be a problem?
I would fold the receivers first and make sure everything fits before parkerizing the metal. You can abrasive blast the flat first, bend it, weld all parts onto the receiver (rear sight base, scope weldment, hanger, etc.) reblast, and dip it in the park tank when all parts are ready for refinishing.

The gold looking stuff on your flat (magwell area) is actually silver solder/silver braze. The silver braze will not parkerize.
 
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