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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Happy New Year everyone-I am looking to SBR my SW5-has anyone done or know of someone who did remove the fake can themselves or is it best to send out-any permanent marks left on the barrel? Thanks
 

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Happy New Year everyone-I am looking to SBR my SW5-has anyone done or know of someone who did remove the fake can themselves or is it best to send out-any permanent marks left on the barrel? Thanks
Just got a SW5. Looks like to me they are blind pinned to one of three lugs on the barrel, assuming you have a HK three lug barrel. If not, then I would be looking of a weld on the bottom of the fake can.

IF you are careful, you can grind the weld down to the pin, dirll out the pin VERY CAREFULLY so as not to drill into the barrel and remove the fake can.

I intend to do the same thing to mine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
OK Thanks I didn't even think about the pin-glad I asked. Good luck with yours-mine is going to be awhile please let me know how you make out. Scott
 

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Drilling the pin most likely will not work. The pin used is very hard compared to the aluminum around it. Find the weld on the rear of the fake suppressor. Drill into the weld until the bit hits the pin, probably 1/8 inch deep or so. Then use a dental pick or some other routing tool to remove the aluminum from around the end of the pin. When you get enough material removed the pin will just about fall out. The pin is not a press fit or anything so it it comes out easily once the material on top is removed. Anyone with fair skills can do this job. Now if the barrel is threaded past the 3 lug the fake suppressor may just screw off. On my SW5 the suppressor was pressed on the end of the barrel and I had to cut the piece in 3 places and split the ends to get it to come off the weapon.

There will be a small drilled hole left in one of the lugs after removal from where the pin was installed, nothing to be concerned about.

I have done two of these so I think I have covered it pretty well. I am sure someone else will chime in if I have left anything out.
 

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Drilling the pin most likely will not work. The pin used is very hard compared to the aluminum around it. Find the weld on the rear of the fake suppressor. Drill into the weld until the bit hits the pin, probably 1/8 inch deep or so. Then use a dental pick or some other routing tool to remove the aluminum from around the end of the pin. When you get enough material removed the pin will just about fall out. The pin is not a press fit or anything so it it comes out easily once the material on top is removed. Anyone with fair skills can do this job. Now if the barrel is threaded past the 3 lug the fake suppressor may just screw off. On my SW5 the suppressor was pressed on the end of the barrel and I had to cut the piece in 3 places and split the ends to get it to come off the weapon.

There will be a small drilled hole left in one of the lugs after removal from where the pin was installed, nothing to be concerned about.

I have done two of these so I think I have covered it pretty well. I am sure someone else will chime in if I have left anything out.

Thanks! That is good information. I help my gunsmith remove the blind pin on a Centrury CETME muzzle brake so I could install a fak suppressor. (Wasn't the AWB wonderful!) We had to grind the weld and pin all the way down to the barrel.

Good information to know.
 

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The pin is steel and the can is aluminum. After grinding the weld off you can heat with a butane torch the can and it should expand faster than the steel making the job easier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Alright thanks to everyone-looking forward to geting my sbr paperwork.
 

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It is a pin with a little weld over most likely. That is how most of them came. If you are not truely comfortable with the machining process to get it out, send it to a professional. Someone here a few weeks back really messed up thier gun trying to do it themselves.

Here is that link: http://hkpro.com/forum/showthread.php?t=69636
I was hoping everyone would forget about that by now.

You can do it yourself. It's easy to spot the weld on the fake can. Grind that down with a dremel slowly. You will see the pin. You shouldn't need to grind any further than just the weld. Take my word for it. After that, just torch it and the pin should free up.

DO NOT DO THIS WITHOUT A TORCH. TAKE MY WORD FOR IT. I did it without a torch, and after I finally got the damned thing off, I had dremelled into my barrel some. It wasn't pretty, and I wasn't happy.

With a torch, it shouldn't be much trouble. Without a torch, you're in lots of trouble.
 
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