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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just wondering if anyone ever had to replace it? & if so, was Geissele easy to deal with and forthcoming with sending another one? Cost $ if any, and will the HK rail mounting screw work? Thanks
 

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Geissele has excellent customer service. Misplaced some of the screws for my SMR rail sections. Offered to buy them and was sent some for free.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, I kinda thought that might be the case. Cheers
 

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they use a factory screw. you can try to have them get you one, it's worth a shot. but in my experience, they're reasonable. i've had to pay just for shipping for a lost glock magwell adapter (the brass insert part), which was awesome of them. and i've had to pay for the screw and shipping for the ALG 6 second mount after i had stripped one. i hate tiny hex head screws. but at least they had the spare parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
I was wondering if the factory screw would work just in case? The "head" on the Geissele looks different though than the factory? How's the HK Parts clone?
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Sure, I never look a "gift horse" in the mouth. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Quick question for everyone? while I have your attention. HK suggests 5ft/lb = about 60in/lb?
The Geissele installation instructions suggest 10ft/lb? which is about 120in/lb?
That seems? a bit on the high side? What's everyone's experience? and what values do you work with?

So in my case I was re-installing the HG and starting out @ 50in/lb since it was a "new" torque wrench (Blk Friday sale) and it sheared. Getting out the old bolt will be a bitch, but doable. Checking into the wrench and my set up?
 

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Quick question for everyone? while I have your attention. HK suggests 5ft/lb = about 60in/lb?
The Geissele installation instructions suggest 10ft/lb? which is about 120in/lb?
That seems? a bit on the high side? What's everyone's experience? and what values do you work with?

So in my case I was re-installing the HG and starting out @ 50in/lb since it was a "new" torque wrench (Blk Friday sale) and it sheared. Getting out the old bolt will be a bitch, but doable. Checking into the wrench and my set up?
Initially, HK touted that the bolt lugs could be used to loosen the screw as it fit perfect in the "+". What was not widely known was that one should use the lug opposite the extractor. I also believe this may explain the lower torque value as not to incur damage on the bolt lug.
I remember the factory quadrail's factory screw would often work loose in a good day's worth of work.
With the Geissele and factory screw finger-tight with about 1/8-1/4 turn with a flathead screw driver would hold until you wanted to take it off. Hell every Geissele I've ever had was so tight, it didn't need a screw until the finish was 100% worn off the barrel nut.
 

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Quick question for everyone? while I have your attention. HK suggests 5ft/lb = about 60in/lb?
The Geissele installation instructions suggest 10ft/lb? which is about 120in/lb?
That seems? a bit on the high side? What's everyone's experience? and what values do you work with?

So in my case I was re-installing the HG and starting out @ 50in/lb since it was a "new" torque wrench (Blk Friday sale) and it sheared. Getting out the old bolt will be a bitch, but doable. Checking into the wrench and my set up?
This literally just happened to me this morning as well. Got my new SMR MK15 rail on there, I then set my toque wrench at 10ft/lbs (been a very trusted one up to today), and the bolt head popped off at a very low range. What felt like hand/wrist tight average of 5-6lbs. Checking the grain structure of the bolt, it seems very large like sugar. Usually a very fine grain denotes a proper heat treat.

Anyways, I e-mailed Geissele today asking if the instructions were correct or maybe my bolt was defective. Till then, I have a spare MR handguard bolt in there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
This literally just happened to me this morning as well. Got my new SMR MK15 rail on there, I then set my toque wrench at 10ft/lbs (been a very trusted one up to today), and the bolt head popped off at a very low range. What felt like hand/wrist tight average of 5-6lbs. Checking the grain structure of the bolt, it seems very large like sugar. Usually a very fine grain denotes a proper heat treat.

Anyways, I e-mailed Geissele today asking if the instructions were correct or maybe my bolt was defective. Till then, I have a spare MR handguard bolt in there.
Ya that sounds identical to my experience, BTW how did you go about getting the old one out? I'm thinking to try and "notch" the threaded part that's protruding on the opposite side & try to "unscrew" it out? or it's off to the mill?

Depending on how fast and supportive Geissele respond? I may negate there bolt and go with an HK or a HK Parts bolt?
 

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Ya that sounds identical to my experience, BTW how did you go about getting the old one out? I'm thinking to try and "notch" the threaded part that's protruding on the opposite side & try to "unscrew" it out? or it's off to the mill?

Depending on how fast and supportive Geissele respond? I may negate there bolt and go with an HK or a HK Parts bolt?
Yup, that's what I did. I used a cutting wheel on a dremel and cut a small slot on what was protruding from the threaded side and used a flathead screwdriver to get it out. After you make your initial shallow notch, you can use a screwdriver to turn the bolt to protrude even more out the end to give you more space to work and cut a deeper notch. Luckily the threads are super well cut so you don't need a ton of depth on the cut the get the torque you need. But it's a very nervous operation putting a cutting that close to your new and fancy rail.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yup, that's what I did. I used a cutting wheel on a dremel and cut a small slot on what was protruding from the threaded side and used a flathead screwdriver to get it out. After you make your initial shallow notch, you can use a screwdriver to turn the bolt to protrude even more out the end to give you more space to work and cut a deeper notch. Luckily the threads are super well cut so you don't need a ton of depth on the cut the get the torque you need. But it's a very nervous operation putting a cutting that close to your new and fancy rail.
LOL, you got that right, I'll tape up the whole rail first, in case it's off to the mill. What was your opinion on going back to the Geissele bolt? and, the 10ft/lb spec? I checked the one on my RHAG and its 65in/lb and the wrench was fine.
Thanks. Cheers
 

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This literally just happened to me this morning as well. Got my new SMR MK15 rail on there, I then set my toque wrench at 10ft/lbs (been a very trusted one up to today), and the bolt head popped off at a very low range. What felt like hand/wrist tight average of 5-6lbs. Checking the grain structure of the bolt, it seems very large like sugar. Usually a very fine grain denotes a proper heat treat.

Anyways, I e-mailed Geissele today asking if the instructions were correct or maybe my bolt was defective. Till then, I have a spare MR handguard bolt in there.
Anybody ever see the head pop off the HK bolt??? I have seen dudes strip the hex out of the inside of the MR556 bolt but never pop the head off.
 

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LOL, you got that right, I'll tape up the whole rail first, in case it's off to the mill. What was your opinion on going back to the Geissele bolt? and, the 10ft/lb spec? I checked the one on my RHAG and its 65in/lb and the wrench was fine.
Thanks. Cheers
Im a little on the fence about going back to be honest, but I want to know what Geissele says because I don't see a reason why a well made crossbolt couldn't handle 10ft/lbs. Normally a torque spec is well within the range of the bolt's tensile strength parameters with a little extra as buffer. You would need to exceed the maximum limit by about 50% or more for most to snap like that. So it's possible it's a batch of defective bolts. With that said, if Geissele sends me another bolt I might just do hand tight plus 1/8 to 1/4 turn like I already do with my older SMR rails on my other uppers. As dms16 said, they are already so tight on there it's never come loose on me with that method.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I too would like to stick with the "factory" supplied bolt, however I won't be going down this road again, too nerve wracking, when I can't readily source a replacement bolt. I am getting some "spares" of the HK style bolts, whether that be HK or HK Parts versions.
 
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