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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, everyone...

This is my first post on this site, and I have a question regarding the application of Gun-Kote to a G3 type rifle. It's actually a PTR-91 (not HK, I know, but I didn't win the Powerball to be able to afford one) that I am building, and want to know if after application, would that change the tolerances of the bolt carrier and bolt? I pressed in the barrel to .016" for headspace with the original finish on the carrier and bolt. I'll be sandblasting the carrier to prepare it for application of Gun-Kote. KG Industries says that it will only add .0004" to the measurement. Will this cause a problem? Also, I know this does not quite belong with this thread, however, I didn't want to wade through the other threads; this concerns barrel pressing. I found that a 10 ton press isn't needed for barrel installation. I found that coating the portion of the barrel that contacts the trunnion with anti-seize grease, inserting the barrel into the breech side of the trunnion, and pressing it in with a hub puller works just as well. Just make sure to use an impact wrench with the puller; if you don't, you will get quite the workout. Take it slow, measure often, and save yourself a couple hundred bucks by using that method. Just throwing it out there. Any advice on the first issue I posted is appreciated.
 

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I would repark the carrier ... paint is not a good ideal for the carrier . here is my number if I can help you .. 918-696-8715 or 918-871-3939 . welcome to Hkpro ..
If you have not pin your barrel call me ..
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, Ghilliebear2000. The finish on the carrier isn't really bad; I figured if I were to Gun-Kote the rest of the weapon, I may as well do the carrier as well. Thinking about it though, I may leave the carrier as is. I haven't pinned the barrel yet; still waiting on a drill press vise from Midway to come in. The last thing I need is to have an off center hole, or a pierced hand. Also, I know this is unrelated, but will the used cocking tube from robertrtg.com fit the PTR-91? I ask this because I had bought an FA-91 (stupid mistake, I know. Live and learn) and am salvaging parts from it; namely the trigger group, bolt, and carrier (all confirmed G3, not Century). The cocking tube, as per typical Century style (yes, one of THOSE) has been cut off up to about 1/2" before the cocking handle cutout, and is therefore, unusable. It is the same diameter of the receiver. So, will a used one work, or should I buy a new one from HKParts.net?
 

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A used one will work if it has been removed properly from the old receiver. There's a smaller inside sleeve that goes into the receiver.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok, thanks. I saw a used one on robertrtg.com for $40, while a new one goes for almost $90. Prices are about the same on HKParts.net. Has anyone had any experience with used cocking tubes from either dealer? I ask because I don't want to spend the money, then find out that the sleeve is damaged on the used tube and not returnable. Thanks.
 

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The used one will work fine,but the new one gives you more ability to make sure your forearm stock will fit tight because of the unwelded clevis" or mounting bracket" Used one could be dented or have pitting and possibly a bad sleeve as the guy above said.. I got a used one in mint condition from HKparts a year ago,it worked nice on a ghillie build. Its really more about the exp. of the builder. This is a tricky area to weld without burning thru and ruining it. If done wrong,you could end up with NO cocking handle gap or not enough. Goodluck bro.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The used one will work fine,but the new one gives you more ability to make sure your forearm stock will fit tight because of the unwelded clevis" or mounting bracket" Used one could be dented or have pitting and possibly a bad sleeve as the guy above said.. I got a used one in mint condition from HKparts a year ago,it worked nice on a ghillie build. Its really more about the exp. of the builder. This is a tricky area to weld without burning thru and ruining it. If done wrong,you could end up with NO cocking handle gap or not enough. Goodluck bro.
Thanks. I know that I'll need the same amount of gap for the cocking tube as I have for headspace; .016 for headspace, so I figure I'll go with .020 just to give me a .004" margin of error in case my headspace closes to .000" for some mysterious reason.
 
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