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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have picked up an old 770 complete with scope base that I'd like to have the wood restored by a master craftsman that I've used on some great wood for other guns.

Does anyone have complete tear down instructions or video for this? I've found the owners manual for removing the bolt but I want to get the receiver and barrel completely removed for the restoration to begin.

Thanks.
 

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Cock the bolt back first.

The trich is the safety lever!
As you raise it you pull out and as it passes the white dot it can be pulled comletly out. (Mine needs pliers!)
Then it's down to losening the action screws. (5mm hexkey all of them)

The recess for the safety lever is a piece of plastic and i have no idea of how to pull it, you're on your own on that one.
 

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Apparently there are no true breakdown manuals on these sporters available. I recently sent mine to a certified HK Armorer and he did want to remove the trigger components without such a manual.

Be careful of the front sight post. Mine recently fell off. My understanding is that solvents gradually eat away the silver solder used to attach them; similar situation with those that have the flash hider, which mine does not.

If you can, video or photo document it.

Can't wait to hear how it goes.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Got it off! Thanks ChickenThief! Ill update this post once I have the in process pics for the wood restoration and once I get the metal parts back after re-bluing.
 

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Welcome to the site, and congratulations on a nice acquisition--- pics of the restoration, upon completion!!! :biggrin:

Tony
 

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Apparently there are no true breakdown manuals on these sporters available. I recently sent mine to a certified HK Armorer and he did want to remove the trigger components without such a manual.

Be careful of the front sight post. Mine recently fell off. My understanding is that solvents gradually eat away the silver solder used to attach them; similar situation with those that have the flash hider, which mine does not.

If you can, video or photo document it.

Can't wait to hear how it goes.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sorry mate, it's only tin solder.
I know because i took mine off and cut the rifle for a suppressor:



 

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I heated it with a propane torch and pulled the muzzle brake off with a pair of pliers. It is soldered on at the stepped down part at the front.
Took the action out of the stock and trued the barrel in the lathe.
Then i trued the @13.2mm~.519" tinned part down to .496" for a ½"-20 thread.
With that done i threaded a piece of brass and turned it down to .510".
That i tinned with a soldering iron, threaded onto tha barrel and tapped the front/brake on with a hammer.
Lastly i heated it with a propane torch and trued it to horisontal (5 times, it kept overshooting 12'oclock when unscrewed and screwed on again).

Thats why you see female threads in brass in the muzzle brake.
I know it looks cruddy, it's been at the range several times since it was done so burnt powder crud get's pushed back into the threads when using a suppressor.
 

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I heated it with a propane torch and pulled the muzzle brake off with a pair of pliers. It is soldered on at the stepped down part at the front.
Took the action out of the stock and trued the barrel in the lathe.
Then i trued the @13.2mm~.519" tinned part down to .496" for a ½"-20 thread.
With that done i threaded a piece of brass and turned it down to .510".
That i tinned with a soldering iron, threaded onto tha barrel and tapped the front/brake on with a hammer.
Lastly i heated it with a propane torch and trued it to horisontal (5 times, it kept overshooting 12'oclock when unscrewed and screwed on again).

Thats why you see female threads in brass in the muzzle brake.
I know it looks cruddy, it's been at the range several times since it was done so burnt powder crud get's pushed back into the threads when using a suppressor.
That impressive, would you mind flying to the States and re-attaching my Front Sight Post to the barrel:wink:
 

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If it indeed is silver soldered/brased to the barrel then re soldering it will render the bluing FUBAR. Normal tin solder temps can be done without colour shift and matting.
Some dremel work on the mating surfaces will clean up the bad silver solder and tin them with a good soldering iron. Just a wery thin layer.
Then you tie the post to the barrel using some bailing wire. When it's just right you heat it with a blow torch and it should stick.
 
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