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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,

Wondering if you all could help me...

I have had a custom comp made by a gunsmith for the german factory barrel for the p30l.

Issue I am having is, the gun will not cycle, I am getting FTE or stove pipes.
I ran 114-147gr and had no luck...

Any ideas? Is a 10 lp spring needed? If so I cannot find one any where.....
 

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I Bleed Urban Gray
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Is the comp made of steel or aluminum? The weight difference and the way it's mounted on the barrel are likely an issue. It looks like it threads directly to the barrel so I'm betting it's not allowing the barrel to cam properly. Some closer pics of the comp on the barrel with the slide back would be helpful. @AkuChiburi
Welcome to the forum!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Is the comp made of steel or aluminum? The weight difference and the way it's mounted on the barrel are likely an issue. It looks like it threads directly to the barrel so I'm betting it's not allowing the barrel to cam properly. Some closer pics of the comp on the barrel with the slide back would be helpful. @AkuChiburi
Welcome to the forum!

Thanks man.

As requested here you go.
 

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I Bleed Urban Gray
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There are others here much more knowledgeable than I. Let's see what others have to say. I can't help but wonder if under recoil the bottom of the comp isn't striking the frame and retarding the full camming of the barrel and/or the full rearward movement of the slide.

Just so we are clear @AkuChiburi , when the comp is not mounted, these FTEs and stovepipes do not occur, right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
There are others here much more knowledgeable than I. Let's see what others have to say. I can't help but wonder if under recoil the bottom of the comp isn't striking the frame and retarding the full camming of the barrel and/or the full rearward movement of the slide.

Just so we are clear @AkuChiburi , when the comp is not mounted, these FTEs and stovepipes do not occur, right?
yup,never had a FTE or stove pipe on this gun once.

when the slide is locked back, the comp barely touches the the slide, there is no marring or damage, you can slide thin carboard between it....The smith seems to think I need a lighter spring, but I wanted to know what you thought on here
 

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Some gun guy
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This sounds like what happens when a suppressor without a booster assembly is mounted on a pistol with a Browning-style action.
I think omega is on to something. That's a big chunk of metal. When I look around for comps of that size, I see lots of guide rod-mounted and rail-mounted options. Most of the threaded comps I see are a lot smaller, probably for this reason.
A lighter spring would offer less resistance to heavier moving mass. You might get yourself an extra recoil assembly with a lighter spring and give it a shot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
This sounds like what happens when a suppressor without a booster assembly is mounted on a pistol with a Browning-style action.
I think omega is on to something. That's a big chunk of metal. When I look around for comps of that size, I see lots of guide rod-mounted and rail-mounted options. Most of the threaded comps I see are a lot smaller, probably for this reason.
A lighter spring would offer less resistance to heavier moving mass. You might get yourself an extra recoil assembly with a lighter spring and give it a shot.
Any idea where i could get a lighter spring I cant find any for hk? Should I just buy a new one and trim it down??
 

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Any idea where i could get a lighter spring I cant find any for hk? Should I just buy a new one and trim it down??
Wolff doesn't seem to offer reduced power springs for anything but full-sized USP's.
Were I in your shoes, I would get a spare factory recoil assembly with factory spring, and just cut a coil or half a coil off at a time until you get it to reliably cycle.
I recommend the whole assembly rather than just a spring just in case you want to shoot the gun without the comp at some point. It's a lot easier to swap a recoil assembly than it is to change just the spring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Wolff doesn't seem to offer reduced power springs for anything but full-sized USP's.
Were I in your shoes, I would get a spare factory recoil assembly with factory spring, and just cut a coil or half a coil off at a time until you get it to reliably cycle.
I recommend the whole assembly rather than just a spring just in case you want to shoot the gun without the comp at some point. It's a lot easier to swap a recoil assembly than it is to change just the spring.
Legend. Thats what I am thinking of doing. Thanks bro. I'll let ya know how I go
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The .40 cal spring is much stronger to offset the increased recoil impulse generated by the .40 cal cart. This would result in the opposite intended result for your situation.
Yah. I know. I just wanted to know if I could use it, as i would clip it until it worked as i cannot find a p30 spring or complete assembly anywhere. So could I use it and trim it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Also. I just realised the 147 ammo i was using was Winchester supressor ammo...should I try plus p? Or hotter ammo before ****ing with springs?
 

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Also. I just realised the 147 ammo i was using was Winchester supressor ammo...should I try plus p? Or hotter ammo before ****ing with springs?
I think you just answered your own question. For a comp to function as intended, you need to run the hottest ammo you can safely run. Especially with the longer barrel.

And that is one big chunk of compensator- the best comps for the P30 (PMM for example) tend to be lightweight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I think you just answered your own question. For a comp to function as intended, you need to run the hottest ammo you can safely run. Especially with the longer barrel.

And that is one big chunk of compensator- the best comps for the P30 (PMM for example) tend to be lightweight.
Yah. They wont ship to me though as I am in aus.

I'll try some +p and get back to you all. Thanks
 

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I Bleed Urban Gray
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Before you go +p I would start with NATO ammo (pmm NATO) which is 10% hotter than "standard" 9mm. If that doesn't work, go to +P but I'd try an keep it at the most pleasant shooting level possible.
 

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I have a similar comp and we are running into the same issues. It’s 41oz and the ports are about 4mm.
We are swapping the recoil spring right now, and if that doesn’t work we will close off the open ports.
I’ll post some pics when we get it all back together.
 
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