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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
TBostic Gen3 conversion...Detail pix reakdown

Just got back in town, got a few rough paictures of the Tom Bostic Gen 3 conversion.









This is the last and the final modification to my SL8.

I will post more detail and pictures in the coming week.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
I broke down the conversion and took some pictures.

I will explain it as we go along.

Before anything else, I took the receiver to an engraver and have my serial number transfer to another location on the receiver, same location as the G36. I also have the serial number engraved in a few other places inside the receiver to make sure my SL8 is well identified.

But first of all, to read the beginning of my SL8 saga, you can refer to this HKPro link: http://hkpro.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50078&highlight=SMGLee

My gun went from this


to this


and then this


finally this


Not until Tom Bostic came up with the final page of my conversion with the Gen3 block.


Here is what happened.
I had a friend that is an Aerospace machinist. He under took the project as I stood by watch and explaining what is to be done.

first we cut the receiver further to accommodate the new Gen3 block.





Once the receiver was cut, my machinist decided to make a new brace since he feel the brace provided was not as exact as he would like. from mk2 eyeballs, the brace provided by Tom was right on and fit very well, but since my machinist want to make a new brace, I can't say no. the new brace was made with Stainless steel and machined to fit exactly with the cut receiver and the block.

The newly made brace is mounted to the block


Tom's laser cut brace


Also a side plate for the magazine opening and the notch to be bonded to the brass deflector in order for the stock to lock in in the folded position.







Tom recommend that two set screws are used on each side of the receiver rail interface to the block, I forgo the set screws and will in turn use plastic Weld by Devcon in the near future to bond everything together.


As you can see, everything came together quit well and with very tight tolerance.



The top of the carrier has a stud, I had to remove it in order for the carrier to fit in the newly formed receiver.


The brace blocked the carrier with the stud guide, so it was necessary to remove it. just a couple of minutes with a dremel


 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)

With all the bolts cinched tight with some blue loc-tite. notice the crack down the center of the screw hole on the last two screw on the block, that is what happened went you try to lock the allen screws in too tight. my machinist warned me, but when I took it down to take pictures and put it back together, I forgot and crack the top of the block. I will use the plastic weld by Devcon in the few weeks to bond the cracks together. sigh....


Somce slight surface difference. but nothing youcan't solved with some plasti weld


I bought a factory HK G36 buffer assembly instead of using the very well made Bostic block assembly. the price was great at 35.00 from a HKPro board member through GunBroker.






 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·

With all the bolts cinched tight with some blue loc-tite. notice the crack down the center of the screw hole on the last two screw on the block, that is what happened went you try to lock the allen screws in too tight. my machinist warned me, but when I took it down to take pictures and put it back together, I forgot and crack the top of the block. I will use the plastic weld by Devcon in the few weeks to bond the cracks together. sigh....


Somce slight surface difference. but nothing youcan't solved with some plasti weld


I bought a factory HK G36 buffer assembly instead of using the very well made Bostic block assembly. the price was great at 35.00 from a HKPro board member through GunBroker.







 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·






The crack produced by my tightening the screws too tight is also held together a bit by the KAC rail. the crack I will use the plastic weld to bond can clean up at a later date.

I have shot exact 90 rds this afternoon with out any adverse effect, but that is before I produced the crack by my own mistake. I will do a lot of shooting next weekend to find out exactly how durable this conversion is. from what was shot today, I have no doubt that the Tom Bostic Gen3 conversion is the best SL8 conversion available if you want the exact duplicate of a G36. Others such as Special Weapon which I took thate route left me undesired and still looking for more. Big thanks to Tom for making the steps to do the conversion so someone like me can finallyi say that my SL8 is now a G36.

more shooting report and pictures to come.
 

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Lee,

What's the legality of modifying the receiver that way to make it almost exact G-36 spec's...

I must admit I winced in horror after seeing the rear end of your receiver being sawed in half then pieced back together with the Gen 3 kit...

The rifle came out good after the molding and plastic welding...

I went with the metal HDPS stock block mounting kit to upgrade my SL8-1 to G-36 spec's but did not need to cut the receiver...

Your SL8-1 looks very impressive... I'm worried about the receiver strength...
 

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ty

Thank you very much SMGLee. I have been waiting to see what you two come up with photo wise. I have been since still looking on having mine plastic welded. I think the melting point for the plastic is 400 degress F and there is a company that makes nylon 66 welding rods. Thank you once again fellas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Lee,

What's the legality of modifying the receiver that way to make it almost exact G-36 spec's...
I did a few things to make sure it can NOT go full auto.

1. the receiver is made so the full auto carrier can't fit inside of it, I retain that feature

2. I drilledt out the SF trigger pack sear hole to a much larger size so no sear can fit inside the pack.

I must admit I winced in horror after seeing the rear end of your receiver being sawed in half then pieced back together with the Gen 3 kit...

The rifle came out good after the molding and plastic welding...
No plastic welder yet, I just photoshop the complete gun, it is currently still featuring the cut lines.

I went with the metal HDPS stock block mounting kit to upgrade my SL8-1 to G-36 spec's but did not need to cut the receiver...

Your SL8-1 looks very impressive... I'm worried about the receiver strength...
I took the SW conversion route, which is almost the same route as the HDPS or the Bomebfab way. The extended space on the receiver just got too ungainly for me. I end up cutting the fusing the stock back together using the covington conversion, as you can see in one of the photo. but in the end, Tom's conversion is exact a duplicate of the G36 and I took the plunge to make my gun to look exactly like the G36.

I have shot about 90rds so far for function test, no noticeable signs of wer, only time will tell. I think wilth the steel brace and plastic weld on all the right places, it will be strong enough to withstand years of service down the road.
 

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So much work and money I hate to criticize, or opine, but I think it would look better with the G36 rail or E model optic setup, JMO

Very nice work..I hope to have a G36ish clone one day as well
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So much work and money I hate to criticize, or opine, but I think it would look better with the G36 rail or E model optic setup, JMO
Not a problem, it is really in the eyes of the beholder.

I tried the G36 short rail, the gap allowing between the rail and the receiver is too narrow with gloves sometimes in a hurry to grab the charging handle properly. The German KSK gone over to a higher rail with more gap.

and the G36 optic, it just plain sucks so I ditch that idea.

Besides, the KAC mounts were free.....:)
 

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Lee, THANK YOU! I've been planning on getting Tom's Gem-3 kit after the 1st of the year but have been wanting to see a detail of the conversion as I plan on doing it myself. The photos and the step-through are FANTASTIC!

Tom, ever consider having Lee do a marketing/conversion video for you? :)

But seriously, thanks again for your time in putting that all together!
 

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What is the legality of moving the serial number around like that? doesn't that violate the GCA? Did you put the original plate in another location? This would seem to be the only way to keep it legal by the wording of the GCA about ser. #'s
 

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GCA 178.34 - "No person shall knowingly transport, ship, or receive in interstate or foreign commerce any firearm which has had the importer's or manufacturer's serial number removed, obliterated, or altered, or possess or receive any firearm which has had the importer's or manufacturer's serial number removed, obliterated, or altered and has, at any time, been shipped or transported in interstate or foreign commerce."

NFA 581 - It shall be unlawful for any person - (g) to obliterate, remove, change, or alter the serial number or other identification of a firearm required by this chapter;

Ok, this is just MY interpretation which has been confirmed VERBALLY by the ATF FTB. Still waiting on writen verification...

No where in EITHER regulation does it state the "moving" or "relocatiing" of the serial number. You can argue that "removal" is removing without the intent of re-attaching and that "removing" would further mean to eliminate completely. Further, no where in either regulation does it specifically state the "original mfg's application of the serial number" or any language indicating to that affect. If you move the the mfg serial number, you are not obliterating, removing or changing... arguably.

If the above argument, for some reason, can not be resonably argued, the NFA regulation applies to SBR's for which the Form-1 will take care of, as you are maufacturing an SBR from a non-SBR rifle and registering there-as.
 
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