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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello...

New member here but not new to HKs. I had a USP CT (.45) with a LEM and loved it. Due to medical bills, I had to sell it and have wanted to get another USP (or a P2K or P30) since. There are a lot of nice gun makers out there, but personally I like HK the most and that's why I'm here.

I was looking for a P30 or P2K or USP9C (all 9mm) in a LEM in Maryland...new guns require a spent shell casing which makes getting them from out of state difficult (need a Class 7 FFL) and so a few weeks of nothing led to be considering a .40. I found a dealer who had a LE trade on a USP 40 C's (V1s I believe [standard D/S]) with Trijicon night sights and it was priced so well I figured I would purchase one.

Overall, it is in good shape but the lower frame is a little beat up as is the slide. The night sights still have what I consider to be ample illumination so I don't think I will touch them. I guess I am curious how you would advise continuing with a LE gun? Given the service lives of these things are stupidly long, I didn't have an issue buying used, but since this is my first used gun, I want to be sure to do whatever service or work is needed to keep it running optimal. From what I am gathering here, some of the things I should consider are...
-Replacing mag springs if they are fatigued (and I am guessing they are from years of being full)
-Replacing the main recoil spring
-Replace mag release spring
-Replace recoil rod brushing
-Detail stripping and cleaning (I wouldn't normally consider a DS but since I don't know the past, I assume this is a good idea?)
-Change firing pin, firing pin block, and firing pin block spring to new style (maybe?)
-Add the LEM trigger (which includes replaces firing pin spring) (or learning to like the V1 and reduce the pull)
-Buy the Armorer's manual?

It looks like all of the above can be done for about $120-ish...are they worth it? Anything else I should think of? Thanks for your time and thought!!! :300000000:

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...I've also considered refinishing the polymer frame (it seems some people prefer Gunkote/Durakote and others products dyes it such as a Rit dye...not sure of which is better) and possibly sending it to get MP3'd by Robar.
 

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If the inside looks new and not unduly worn after you clean her up, then I would say don't do anything but shoot it for at least a month or two. Don't do a FULL detail strip. DO a field strip and clean, PLUS remove & clean the extractor and it's recess, PLUS remove & clean the firing pin and it's channel. Install new HK mag-springs, and you're good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
When you say field strip and clean, do you mean just the standard breakdown into like barrel, captured spring, slide, slide release, and frame, or is a field strip more intermediate between this and the detail strip? Is the best way to remove and clean the extractor and firing pin by simply following the blowed-up guide? (I've also read some people use ultrasonic cleaners).

The inside is dirty and it is a 2001 model. Wear is not significant tho. The most wear is actually the outside polymer frame actually!
 

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I wouldn't get to carried away unless you see a KNOWN problem. The more detailed the strip the greater knowledge & familiarity required, maybe you have that. With the slide off you can get the innards a fair cleaning with some spray 'Gun Scrubber' product, then lightly re-lube. You hear mention of the magazines loaded since WW-II & how the springs are still well enough to feed. I'd clean, lightly lube, shoot & evaluate, before I went to far with replacing parts.
 

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I have to agree with the other gentleman in this thread. Take it out, shoot it, clean it up, and assess anything that you may have noticed during cleaning or firing. Because of the durability of the internals, I would be willing to say that your gun is probably in great working condition. Enjoy your new purchase!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Awesome. Thanks for the advice and the kind words! I will do this before doing much more. I already have a full case of 165gr HST...the only downer is that MD has a 7 day waiting period and with all the madness going on they are currently running at least a week to two behind. So I may figure out how to build my own .40 potato gun in which I strike the firing pin with a balpeen hammer and a small nail to get'r going in the meantime.
 

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I too have a .40C that was a former duty weapon. It was filthy inside. I was very surprised how dirty it was. Also the exterior grip area is white-grey in the grooves. Is that oxidation? Is there any way to remove it without damage? I'm going to convert my back to V1.
 

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I too have a .40C that was a former duty weapon. It was filthy inside. I was very surprised how dirty it was. Also the exterior grip area is white-grey in the grooves. Is that oxidation? Is there any way to remove it without damage? I'm going to convert my back to V1.
That is dried sweat. You can take your frame and wash it in the sink with hot water and regular liquid dish soap & a stiff toothbrush. Scrub every inch of her including inside the magwell and everywhere else you can reach with the soapy toothbrush. Scrub the grip really well. After you wash the frame, rinse it well in really hot tap water, and then shake out the water very well. Dry with a rag or paper towel. If you have access to an air compressor, you can also blow it out if you want. Most importantly, spray it down inside and out with your favorite clp to displace any remaining water. Wipe down well after clp. Spray regular Pledge furniture polish on the frame as a final step to restore the lustre, and wipe off. The white Pledge residue can be brushed with a dry toohtbrush in the grip texture, and it will disappear (& evaporate) as you brush vigorously while leaving the grip looking like new.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
I too have a .40C that was a former duty weapon. It was filthy inside. I was very surprised how dirty it was. Also the exterior grip area is white-grey in the grooves. Is that oxidation? Is there any way to remove it without damage? I'm going to convert my back to V1.
To get even nastier, it's also dried dead skin cells :p

I've always used Blue Wonder on my HKs and other guns that aren't finish-sensitive. I find the ammonia base to clean better than most with a less noxious smell, plus it offers some sterilizing properties and it doesn't have a lubricant mixed in with it that can gunk things up over time. That and a soft nylon bristle toothbrush plus about 15 minutes and you are good to go!

As far as causing damage, my experience with my previous HKs has led me to believe that as a general rule, if it doesn't damage your skin it won't damage the firearm. The only exception is over-lubing and some 'multi-purpose' cleaners/finishes designed to 'restore' color or ones that do other unusual random things. Almost all of the normal cleaners on the market are discussed on here and preference on cleaner is greater than preference on caliber or JHP bullet type/weight. As a general rule, most seem to work just fine although I would assert some, like Blue Wonder, are better cleaners than the 'all-in-one' choices.
 
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