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HK223/HK416 Remove buttstock - how?

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can you tell me, how can i remove a buffer from MR223? Looks like impossible without damage a plastic nut from plate with sleeve for sling. I can´t find tutorial for disassembly this part.

Cylinder Auto part Machine

Thank you for help.
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· Premium Member
4,056 Posts
you'll need a stock wrench/castle nut wrench like this:

You will also need a vice and a jig to hold your lower securely, like this:

with the lower secured in a vice, you apply the stock wrench to the castle nut. It will be difficult, but the nut will come loose. Then as baljar pointed out, you will have to replace the plate and re-stake the castle nut to it.

not impossible, but it could be a bit challenging.....

· Premium Member
4,111 Posts
O.k., finally, answer is: impossible :)
The plate is a softer material than the castle nut, so you won't damage the castle nut. You may or may not need a new plate, depending on where the notches on the castle nut line up when you screw it back on. That's assuming you want to restake the nut. Some don't bother because it just makes it a pain if you ever want to take it off again.

· Registered
723 Posts
Buffer: Lives inside the receiver extension, rides fore and aft between the back of the bolt carrier group and the recoil spring

Receiver Extension: The tube the stock rides on, contains the buffer and recoil spring

End plate: The mostly flat bit that is held up against the back of the receiver by the castle nut. The end plate is staked to the castle nut.

Castle nut: The nut that secures the end plate and also the receiver extension in place.

· Banned
1,651 Posts
You need to have an armorer unstake it. There is a HK Staking tool for that. But JNAP probably has another way without using the staking tool.

All I do is use a Dremmel with a very pointed grinding tool. I CAREFULLY remove just enough material inside the staking area recess that it releases extremely easily. You honestly could never tell I did it unless I told you. Not sure if the grinding tool is sold like it is or if I ground it down to fit just right inside of it. It truly takes barely any pressure them to unscrew castle nut and you don't torque the hell out of the lower. Wether you choose to buy a new castle. UT or back plate to restake it properly, like it was done at the factory, is then up to you. Hit it with some cold blue and, viola.. works perfect and it is only a very minimal amount that needs to be removed. The tool I have fits in staking area perfectly so no outside marking is caused. I will post video/take photos of a couple I have to do this weekend or next week. One of the few I did last week wasn't even staked from the factory.
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