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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
The gun runs great without the can. With the can the spent case does not eject but a new round is stripped and jammed into the chamber. So the bolt is moving far enough to strip but not eject? Or is the can creating more pressure and the bolt is moving too fast. I doubt that. I have the short ejector.

The FTE all seem to be up against the spring rod.
 

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Im thinking the bolt is moving too fast with the extra pressure of the can. This would be a locking piece issue. Im not sure which one you should try, but there are a few members here that run their 53's suppressed.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm not getting much input from this question. Is this the correct place to ask it? I had a response on SilencerTalk that it could be the rollers, but I don't see how.
 

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The gun runs great without the can. With the can the spent case does not eject but a new round is stripped and jammed into the chamber. So the bolt is moving far enough to strip but not eject? Or is the can creating more pressure and the bolt is moving too fast. I doubt that. I have the short ejector.

The FTE all seem to be up against the spring rod.
First question is how close are you to Indiana ;-)?

Standard HK roller lock trouble shooting check list (skip any step at your own risk as one can spend years working on major issues with the minor issue caused the problem ;-)
# Check extractor spring
# Clean firearm
# Check bolt gap
# Retest with several types of ammo (M193, M885 and Wolf 55gr)

Then questions and checks:
- Is the HK53 a push pin full auto, reg trigger pack full auto, sear pack, a semi SBR, a "long" barrel HK53 that is a rifle or a pistol
- What type HK53 (i.e. who make the receiver, who did the conversion).
- What type bolt group (i.e. German HK53, cut down HK93/G33, US etc.) - including carrier, bolt and locking piece
- Is the carrier buffered or not.
- Who made the barrel (i.e. German HK53, cut down HK93, RCM etc. and check the chamber is fluted).
- What type stock (in particular buffered or not)
** What is the locking piece in your bolt group (the number and if possible the make).
- Is the HK53 failing to eject on semi, full or both
- What is the failure rate for the HK53 with a can (i.e. 100% or just well over half).
- Have you checked operation more than one range outing?
- Is the can rated for use on a 8.5" barrel (and what type adapter is used, if not one that goes over the flash hider).
** What type ammo are you using (Federal XM193, Wolf or ??), including weight of bullet.
- Have you tested follow a complete cleaning and relubing, including cleaning the chamber and face with a brush and taking the bolt group apart?
** Any movement of the extractor?
** Have you tried with a new extractor spring
** What does the extractor lip (when removed) look like - clean inside of lip with probe and retest
** Optionally try a new extractor.
** Any signs of damage on the lip of the case still in the chamber, possible due to extractor slipping?

I would guess (with out seeing or knowing more is just a guess) your extractor is slipping off the edge of the case and leaving the case in the chamber, if cleaning, changing ammo and/or changing the extractor and spring does not help - try a different locking piece.
 

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As usual JT covered bout everything for troubleshooting.
I will add
Make sure chamber flutes are clean !!!!!!!
I run mine with a YHM phantom & #15 lp ..
Try a #3 lp without can , if it cycles fine then try it with the can
 

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As usual JT covered bout everything for troubleshooting.
I will add
Make sure chamber flutes are clean !!!!!!!
I run mine with a YHM phantom & #15 lp ..
Try a #3 lp without can , if it cycles fine then try it with the can
Thanks, had listed checking the chamber was fluted but missed cleaning the hell out of the chamber ;-).
Will be interesting to see how his gun works out.

Guide to HK Locking Pieces
 

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My vector 53 worked great with the can, and great with the sear. When I combined the two, the rate of fire was crazy fast. Well, for about 4 rounds. Then it stopped and wouldnt run that combo again.

I found that my LP was cut wrong, and caused my bolt gap to go away.

Replaced the LP with genuine HK, and it works like its supposed to again
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I just looked at the LP and it is marked as a #8 which makes it a Malaysian 33 LP with a 53' ramp. I see from the "Guide" that the factory 53 has a #15 LP with 65' ramps. I'll check the factory HK53 I have access to just to see what's in that one and swap them to see if this helps.

Bolt gap is .016". Ammo is Prvi. It's relatively clean. It has always run great without the can, never a failure of any kind. I just went out back and shot it again without the can and it runs great.
 

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Check the lip of the Prvi cases that failed to eject and see if the extractor is pulling off. I have had good luck with Prvi until a close friend tried to reload them, when found they were hard to resize and got stuck in the case.

If it was me I would get a couple 20 round boxes of Federal XM193 and Steel case Wolf 55gr FMJ to see how these work.

Note if this is a Vector gun, they tended to regrind the locking pieces to what they needed ....

Good Luck and keep us in the loop as that is also how we get another data point.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I checked the FTE cases and the ones I shot this morning. All have bright marks where it looks like the extractor pulled on the cases. One of the FTE cases looks like the extractor pulled through the case although it was completely destroyed during the failed ejection. It was more likely damaged when the bolt slammed forward. With no can the spent cases are being thrown about 15 to 20 feet at about 15 degrees to the right.
 

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Starting to look like extractor pulling off ... might also wish to "borrow" the extractor or bolt head on the postie 53 .., and try different ammo than Prvi

While you are at it, try a different recoil sprint (i.e. gut the posties and try the entire bolt, carrier and spring in your ...).
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I do wonder if the factory 53 will run with this can. But that is an excellent suggestion.
 

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For clarification the OP has a C93 pistol (53 style clone). Does anyone here have a C93 pistol to compare to a factory 53 or at least a V53, in regards to the bolt carrier, cocking tube support, and length of recoil rod.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
For clarification the OP has a C93 pistol (53 style clone). Does anyone here have a C93 pistol to compare to a factory 53 or at least a V53, in regards to the bolt carrier, cocking tube support, and length of recoil rod.
Thanks JFK, but already have access to a HK53 for comparison. If you read my posts on this thread, I mention it several times.....
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The factory HK53 I looked at today has a #15 locking piece. I'll swap the parts and report back with results. Thanks to all of you for the input.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The #15 locking piece did the trick. The gun now runs great with and without the can.

I did some measurements on the HK53, a pre sample model, and the top of the bolt is about 2mm longer than the Century cut and welded bolt. The cocking piston, with the charging lever, was already tight, so the HK53 bolt would not lock in place. But I'm still happy with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Here is an image of the cut down bolt carrier, right, against the factory HK53 carrier, left. I mention above that the cocking extension, the tube that pushes on the carrier, has almost no play in it with the short carrier, so the factory carrier would not fit. Can the tube be shortened? The cut down bolt functioned fine in the HK53.



Also, the change in locking piece did not alter the bolt gap. Still at .016".
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I got a chance to try another SA trigger pack with a short ejector and all of the FTE problems disappeared. The gun ran flawless. Which ejector lever is the 53 supposed to have? And why are they different?
 
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