[Chopstix Kid]

By popular request...

NOTE: When converting a G36 (or any other) pistol grip for use in a conversion, you MUST use the ENTIRE SL8 FCG.

When drilling the holes for the locking lever pin, most G36 lowers already have the spot marked (on both sides)... by-product of the plug used in the injection process I assume. Only 2-pos and 3-pos lowers need the hole drilled. 4-pos lowers already have the hole.

At this point the BHO should move upwards and spring back downwards. If it does not, check the location of the spring against the BHO lever... make sure it is on the RIGHT-SIDE.

The trigger should also operate full-range freely and spring back into position. If not, double check spring placement.

Make sure the sear toggles freely. If you feel it bind or it does not toggle up/down, you may have missed the spring hole in the trigger and the sear spring is bound-up. Remove the sear and try again.

NOTICE: In the image below, the right side spring leg is in the wrong location. It is actually supposed to be tensioned against the polymer cross-wall at the bottom of the housing, not against the pin as shown.

At this point, the hammer should lock back properly and release with trigger pull. If not, double check spring placement AND sear-spring installation.

Locking-lever installation is the most time-consuming step for the first-timer. BE PATIENT as you will probably have to retry it a few times to get it right. Rushing this step will only get you more frustrated.

 

[CNADNSL8-5]

By popular request...


At this point the BHO should move upwards and spring back downwards. If it does not, check the location of the spring against the BHO lever... make sure it is on the RIGHT-SIDE.

The trigger should also operate full-range freely and spring back into position. If not, double check spring placement.

what is the purpose of the second tab on the left of the trigger? If you were to put both springs on the tabs would it increase trigger pull? Or if you were to only use the BHO spring would this decrease trigger pull? Would the Trigger pull be too light and be dangerous?

Hey chopstix, May I post a link to this on a Canadian forum? I have a stickied thread dedicated to the SL8/G36 and this would be helpful.

 

[Chopstix Kid]

what is the purpose of the second tab on the left of the trigger? If you were to put both springs on the tabs would it increase trigger pull? Or if you were to only use the BHO spring would this decrease trigger pull? Would the Trigger pull be too light and be dangerous?

Hey chopstix, May I post a link to this on a Canadian forum? I have a stickied thread dedicated to the SL8/G36 and this would be helpful.

I honestly do not know the purpose of the second post on the trigger (left-side). You can't get the spring to seat correctly on the post anyhow... so why the trigger has a post on both sides, who knows. Even the factory G36 FCG doesn't mount a spring on it. The SL8 FCG has a lighter pull because the right-side spring has less tension.

Feel free to link to it.

 

[tbostic]

The right side hammer spring is actually supposed to go all the way down below the axle and is held down by that small wall in the lower right bottom, the left side is held in as pictured by the axle. I dont think it matters much , It will just add a bit more tension on the hammer spring. The last 5 lowers I got in from H&K have come this way from the factory.I also found an easy way to accurately drill the Axle hole on the burst pack lowers is to lay the G36 lower on its side, lay the SL8 lower on top of it and line it up so that you can slide all of the axle pins through both lowers to connect them . This way you know the rear pin hole is in the right spot, then you can line up your drill bit through the SL8 lower and drill through the G36 lower in the correct spot. Its best if you use a drill press to keep it straight. Then just flip it and do the same on the other side. This is an Awesome pictorial, this should really help clear things up for people. Thanks for taking the time to post it.

 

[seven.sixtwo]

Nice post, Joe!!
(Did you get my SL8 lever, btw?)

I have done the hammer springs on the wall and on the axle and either way works but for some anal reason I like the extra tension in the hammer achieved by putting them on the wall, like in the USC lower.

 

[Chopstix Kid]

Nice post, Joe!!
(Did you get my SL8 lever, btw?)

Yep, got it... packaged it up the same day but by the time I knew what hit me, it was Xmas... you'll have the stock SL8 levers back this week.

The right side hammer spring is actually supposed to go all the way down below the axle and is held down by that small wall in the lower right bottom

Yep yep, you are correct. Some of the early few I got were like the photo shown as well as a couple of SL8 lowers were like it too. But yeah, all the new stuff is showing up as you said. I guess I just got used to doing it a certain way... you know, the old dog new trick thing, lol.

 

[CNADNSL8-5]

you can see it just behind the BHO and in front of the sear in the pic. I have mine installed under the pin.

 

[PSG1 Nut]

Who can do remarking selectors?

 

[oenone]

Who can do remarking selectors?

You can. It's very easy. You wash out the old markings with acetone, and then fill the spot in with Devcon Plastic Welder II or some other epoxy. Then, you assemble the lower and mark off where you want the new markings to be.

Find a pin (push pin, safety pin, etc) or a small nail with a diameter of on multimeter, and heat it up on a candle or something. After bandaging your burns, apply the hot pin to the selector to melt a channel like the one you just filled in.

Any material that melts out of the selector is filed down or cut of with a knife, and the channel is painted with a tiny amount of white paint. Correction fluid will work too in a pinch, And there you go, you have remarked the selector!

 

[Chopstix Kid]

You can. It's very easy. You wash out the old markings with acetone, and then fill the spot in with Devcon Plastic Welder II or some other epoxy. Then, you assemble the lower and mark off where you want the new markings to be.

Find a pin (push pin, safety pin, etc) or a small nail with a diameter of on multimeter, and heat it up on a candle or something. After bandaging your burns, apply the hot pin to the selector to melt a channel like the one you just filled in.

Any material that melts out of the selector is filed down or cut of with a knife, and the channel is painted with a tiny amount of white paint. Correction fluid will work too in a pinch, And there you go, you have remarked the selector!

+1... this is exactly how I do them... I use a large paperclip and then put a light coat of black paint on it before filling in the white.

Who can do remarking selectors?

Your selectors didn't need remarking, did they?

 

[phillik747]

To cut the wall in the lower the easiest way was to use a sharp chisel and slowly cut away the area needed. This made it look very professional without any marks.

Great tutorial!

 

[jdonovan]

I realize this is an old thread, but thanks Chop. This allowed my to get the USC back together with only a minor amount of cursing.

%#@%#@%# locking lever.

 

[CNADNSL8-5]

Based on information submitted for US patents on the G36 I found the following information on the trigger spring. The left trigger spring used to disengage the bolt hold open is also designed for increasing trigger return pressure in adverse conditions. The question of the proper placement of the spring had been asked before, but I did not have a definite answer till now. I added colour to the pic to highlight the parts

Under unfriendly environmental conditions (severe frost which allows grease or oil to harden in the weapon, severe fouling by fine sand, etc.) the restoring force of the trigger spring is sometimes no longer sufficient if the spring is designed for a soft trigger. For this reason the trigger springs of military hand firearms have been designed in such manner that their restoring force is still sufficient even under the severe conditions described. This however, reduces the accuracy of the marksman.

In the embodiment of FIGS. 4 through 6, the trigger weight or the restoring force may be selected according to the environmental conditions to be expected or according to the experience of the user.

The trigger arrangement 81 (see FIG. 7) has a trigger spring which, in FIGS. 1-5, is covered by the trigger. It corresponds to the state of the art and is laid out in such manner that the trigger is "soft". In fact, the restoring force of the trigger spring can be extremely light, because the trigger consists of comparatively light material (plastic), so that the mass forces against which the restoring force must act are slight.

In the operating state shown in FIG. 4, the rear shank of the spring 73 rests on the inside of the grip piece 3. The spring 73 lying in this position provides the restoring force, which urges the trigger forward. Thus, the trigger is "soft". This operating state is chosen when favorable environmental conditions are to be expected, or when experienced persons are to use the weapon.

A spring support 79 is located proximate to the rear shank of the spring 73 on the side surface of the portion of the trigger which extends to the safety projection 37. The rear shank of the spring 73 can be deflected upward under force-storing deformation of the spring 73, and be placed on the spring support. This shifting-over can be performed simply, for example, by gripping from above, under the spring shank, with a hook and raising it. Now the spring 73 reinforces the restoring force of the trigger spring (not shown) and the trigger becomes "hard".

This position of the spring shank is shown in FIG. 5. This setting will be chosen in unfavorable environmental conditions, or when the weapon is issued to an inexperienced person, from which there cannot yet be expected a safe handling of the weapon. The desired adjustment can, of course, be made at the factory.

The two adjustments described above (effectiveness of the breechblock barrier and the restoring force acting on the trigger 33) can be made in an extremely short amount of time by an instructed person with the simplest tool. The user of the rifle, however, is not in a position to do this, since there is no handle or anything with which the user might make an adjustment. The rifle is, therefore, always in the adjustment state in which it was issued.

The disengageable breechblock locking described or the switching-on at will of an additional restoring force on the trigger can be performed in common or separately on a weapon which is not equipped with the trigger arrangement according to the invention.

 

[Chopstix Kid]

Based on information submitted for US patents on the G36 I found the following information on the trigger spring. The left trigger spring used to disengage the bolt hold open is also designed for increasing trigger return pressure in adverse conditions. The question of the proper placement of the spring had been asked before, but I did not have a definite answer till now. I added colour to the pic to highlight the parts

Great addition to this thread!
Even though the pin is notched, have you noticed any difficulty in getting the spring to actually stay on? The pin doesn't stick out far enough and it just doesn't seem stable enough to stay. Anyone try it yet? Maybe I need to go check an actual G36 trigger... maybe the pin is longer?

 

[CNADNSL8-5]

My FCG is set up like the pics in the beginning of the thread. I've got the SL8 and G36 triggers. If I remember I'll try it out.

 

[Chopstix Kid]

My FCG is set up like the pics in the beginning of the thread. I've got the SL8 and G36 triggers. If I remember I'll try it out.

Cool. I've got some G36 FCG's burried in a box somewhere. I'll see what I can find out as well. Side-note, I think Ed omits that left-side peg on his triggers?

 

[PSG1 Nut]

Cool. I've got some G36 FCG's burried in a box somewhere. I'll see what I can find out as well. Side-note, I think Ed omits that left-side peg on his triggers?

I just tried it on my conversion and it seems to want to slip off after a few actuation's. Perhaps either a longer spring end would help. Like you stated a actual 36 trigger group might be different.

 

[Chopstix Kid]

Just checked (4) G36 triggers. The left-side pin sticks out the same distance as an SL8 trigger.

 

[ringer706]

Thanks for the write-up Joe, very well done! 30 minutes and a couple obscenities later, we're rockin and rollin! Now to remark the selectors and I'm good to go.

As for the locking lever, I found what seemed to be a pretty easy way to install both springs. I first pushed the pin in from the left WITHOUT installing the left spring. I then continued your directions to finish installing the other spring. Then I pushed the pin farther to the right so I could squeeze in the left spring with a screw driver and a punch. Pushed the pin back to the left and shazam, done. I found it EXTREMELY difficult to try and line up the pin with the locking lever after installing the first spring per your directions and that by having the locking lever on the pin before installing the springs, I didn't have to wrangle things around as much to line them up.

 

[ringer706]

To cut the wall in the lower the easiest way was to use a sharp chisel and slowly cut away the area needed. This made it look very professional without any marks.

Great tutorial!

I found a small set of pliers and a file worked equally well, the plastic tears pretty easy and I was able to make a nice square hole in only a few minutes.