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CAUTION: HK pistol designs represent an optimization of a combination of safety, speed of deployment, accuracy, dependability, and durability. Do not attempt to make an HK pistol “better” by altering any of its components. Altering any part of the pistol or magazine may cause injury or death and will also void any HK warranty on the product.

See attachment for PDF instructions.
 

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TooSixy, thank you, this was a real eye opener as to the proper way to dis-assemble the P30. Your tips w/ the stir sticks, and, the directional removal of the pins is extremely helpful. The pic's detail everything and make a "must add" to any personal library.

c4
 

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Thanks so much for putting this up. This helped me a lot when I upgraded my P30L with the flat sear spring, light firing block spring, and light main spring. I will be getting an HK45 in a few weeks. Is this also going to work with the HK45?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
No, the HK45 is a little different. The only similarities are the removal of the slide components, backstrap, hammer spring, and ambi slide release levers. The rest is similar to the USP series so you might want to search for the USP disassembly YouTube videos.
 

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This is a tremendously helpful post for those of us who are taking apart our P30's for the first time. Thank you!

I want to contribute a bit with comments on the installation of the flat sheer spring. I noticed that when pushing the flat sheer spring into place, even with much force the spring might seem stuck and refuse to budge. At this point you can reach the backside of the grip to pry the spring into place. Feels much safer than pushing down on the spring and risk bending it.

Looking from the back where the hammer spring is located, you can see the end of the sheer spring:


Now just take a size 0 or any small flat head screwdriver, you can pry the sheer spring into place:
 

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Dude, great job!! I love the coffee stirrer trick. I'm going to have to try that instead of all the cussing I normally do..
Agreed. I wish I would have found this thread before I did mine.. (continue below)

Come on!!! We're 14 years into the millennium. Where's the youtube video?!?!?!
Seriously, nicely done. I'll use this for my next cleaning.
I actually found a You Tube video. The guy in the video push, not sorry, hammered the sear Axle out in the wrong direction! Fortunately, I'm not one to force things. After looking at the pin in the video, I tried pushing it out the correct way and it came out with little force.

This is an outstanding tutorial. I'm indebted. Thanks so much for taking the time to share your knowledge on this!
Agreed, very useful post. Thank you.
 

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This is a very useful post. Thank you for posting.

As a first time user, I found the process of replacing the trigger return spring almost impossible. First, you MUST have a vise or some sort or a partner help you. If you don't have a vise or partner, plan on hours of frustration. It is too hard to do it otherwise. It's like attempting to thread a needle with someone actively thwarting you. As one who is fairly handy, just save yourself the time and don't attempt it without this.

Second, the coffee stirrer trick is clever, but it was very difficult for me to find a suitably small coffee stirrer. All the ones I found were too big. I wound up using the plastic tube from a Bic ball point pen. Even that was a little too big, so I "solved" the problem by melting the plastic a little bit which helped it shrink/be shriveled enough to stay attached to the spring leg. A few weeks after I needed it, I did eventually find a stirrer of the right type.

Third, a warning. When I was attempting to muscle the TRS into the space, I tried to do so using various tools like pliers and punches. It is possible to scratch/chip the plastic frame. I managed to chip a small piece of plastic off the internal frame. It's not affecting operation, even after a hundreds of rounds, but I feel bad about it. Thus, I strongly caution against excessive force. I think most people should, in order, (1) buy the TRS custom pliers from HK Parts for $20; (2) pay a professional to do it (call it, $150) or (3) don't bother because you either really don't need to go from V1/V2/V3 to whatever or, if you do, you should just sell the gun you have, get the gun you want and pay the $200 in the trade. The way this "operation" makes the most sense if you really like tinkering with things and will view the hours spent as "fun". I thought the first two hours were fun, the last two hours frustrating.
 

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Wow... this is fantastic. Subscribed!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Third, a warning. When I was attempting to muscle the TRS into the space, I tried to do so using various tools like pliers and punches. It is possible to scratch/chip the plastic frame. I managed to chip a small piece of plastic off the internal frame. It's not affecting operation, even after a hundreds of rounds, but I feel bad about it. Thus, I strongly caution against excessive force. I think most people should, in order, (1) buy the TRS custom pliers from HK Parts for $20; (2) pay a professional to do it (call it, $150) or (3) don't bother because you either really don't need to go from V1/V2/V3 to whatever or, if you do, you should just sell the gun you have, get the gun you want and pay the $200 in the trade. The way this "operation" makes the most sense if you really like tinkering with things and will view the hours spent as "fun". I thought the first two hours were fun, the last two hours frustrating.
With the right coffee stirrers and a vise, or a set regular long needle-nose pliers and a vise, or the TRS pliers from HKParts, I can reinstall the TRS in about 5-8 seconds tops. When I did this tutorial with the coffee stirrers, it took me merely 3 seconds. There is not much to it when you have the right tool.

If you are converting a V2/V1 to other LEM variants and if a TRS needs to be changed, it is definitely cheaper (and much less hassle) to buy the TRS pliers instead of selling your gun or trading your gun for the one you want + $200.
 

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WOW! This thread is HUGE. Just picked up a P30-V3 for $650 this am and it had the nickel plated sear spring in the box. Tore right into it and replaced it. Firearm got a thorough cleaning as well. Had picked this up just to trade for some thing else but am really liking the feel of it. Going to have to run a couple boxes through her tomorrow. May end up keeping this one!
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