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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok so im going to walk you through on how i polish a barrel what u need is..

a die grinder with a felt polishing wheel gloves and microfiber cloth



now the best polishing compund is flitz hands down the small tube is enough i just have the can cuz i polish ALOT



buff off the blued finish till all is gone i had an older wheel and used it then switch wheels and now the fun begins



add a SMALL amount of flitz to your wheel and buff away be sure not to hit the corners to hard or they will grind down! continiue this till you get a nice semi mirrored finish



DO NOT I REPEAT DO NOT ATTEMPT TO BUFF THE BOTTOM OF THE SQUARE PART OF BARREL WHERE THE GROOVES CONTACT!!!!

after you get your semi polished barrell use your microfiber cloth to buff it out





add small amount of flitz to the barrel and use the cloth to buff to your mirrored finish to perfect shine!






the more you rub with the cloth the higher the gloss/shine i did this for about 30 mins to get "my" desired look..i hope u guys like!





 

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Looks awesome!

I have a usp 40, how would i go about doing that barrel?



J/k gotta have a little humor!
 

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Nice work:) Questions for the OP:

1. Does buffing the barrel remove the HE finish and expose the barrel to rusting?
2. Why not buff the area under the square of the barrel? I recently had 2 of my pistols treated with Nickel boron and it is also slick. Any issues on this?
 

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Nice work:) Questions for the OP:

1. Does buffing the barrel remove the HE finish and expose the barrel to rusting?
2. Why not buff the area under the square of the barrel? I recently had 2 of my pistols treated with Nickel boron and it is also slick. Any issues on this?
Good questions. I'd like to know also. Although, I thought the HE finish was only done on the slide and the barrel blued just like many other standard gun parts.
 

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2. Why not buff the area under the square of the barrel?
As he mentioned prior to that, polishing on the corners can actually grind them down (polishing is ordinarily minute amounts of grinding to begin with, and most polishing compounds have some degree of grit to them). The same risks apply to the locking lugs on the under side of the chamber. Alterations to those could bring them out of tolerance and could cause malfunctions in the weapon. For that matter, the front edge of the hood, where it locks into the slide is a sensitive area, as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
thx guys im glad u liked it ill tak a pic of it when i get home tonight i didnt get on here till i got to work.. yea i wouldnt buff the bottom beacuse polishing is grinding and you dont wanna remove any metal that catches the slide even tho flitz is a non abrasive i still wouldnt take the chance. hate to go out and shoot and the slide dosent catch on return! besides noone is going to see that part anyways..as far as removeing the coating if left untreated yes it will
rust like any other metal even aluminum rusts! its just not brownish red..applying the flitz will protect it from oxidation "rusting" and it would take a while for it to actually rust and im shure u guys clean your guns alot so really no worry... i have yet to do a slide if someone has one for sale shoot me a pm id like to polish a slide im really thinking about polishing my slide lock and making a metal hammer and trigger to polish and accent it!
 

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woow. looks great!

I'd assume that the buffing and polishing removes the HE finish and HK barrels are not made out of stainless steel. That being said: many 1911 barrels (Kimber certain models etc.) have no finish and are just shiny. At least Kimber has a few models which are not made out of stainless steel and if properly taken care off (wipe it down with CLP inside and out once in a while) they won't rust. So not a big deal.
 
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