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Discussion Starter #1
What is the best method to dye my USC? I heard 3 bottles of black to 1 bottle of green Rit is the combination...is this correct? Also, what is the procedure? Boil x-amount of water, submerse part for x-amount of minutes and...lather rinse repeat? Any and all help is much appreciated!
 

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A sticky for that would be cool.:cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Awesome! Thanks for the link and a sticky would help out plenty of others.
 

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The only thing that I would add is that you may want to consider using one of those flat rubbermaid containers for dying - the kind you see for underbed storage and such at just about every retail store. It also helps if you have an air compressor around to blow all the water out of every crack and crevice when you're done.
 

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i already asked the mods to make a sticky out of this. we'll have to wait and see what they say.

to make a sl8 or usc look like a g36 or a ump on the conversion you are doing.

check out tactical excellence or top notch parts. they charge for this service as part of the conversion process.

thanks for the kind words. this is the clearest set of instructions i've seen. i don't like the kitty litter pan either, the rubbermaid is a good idea or some other large storage pan.
 

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You could get a big aluminum pot and heat the water over a fish fryer set up. I don't know what it would do to the pot though.
 

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I use the rubbermaid, got it at a flea market for a buck, works awesome. Wrap it in blankets and anything else you can to hold the heat. The air compressor is also a huge help but rinse the weapon real well first or you could get black all over the place! Don't worry, it won't wash off.
 
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I pulled it all apart so I could dye the upper and washed it with 100% acetone. I used the rit dye method I found on the USC45 web sight. I found the liquid black dye but had to use 2 packs of powder dark green, I also used to 2 large chaffing pans from a sterno warmer to do this in. In one pan I mixed all the dye with enough water to cover the upper(I used a wire cooling rack in the bottom of the pan so I wouldn't melt it on the burners. Using two burners I kept the temp up to 175 for 3.5 hours, I had to leave for a meeting so I shut down the burners and let it sit for another 2.5 hours. When I got home I used the second pan as a rinsing pan with luke warm water. I got it all back together and it looks great, see for yourself.



 

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My dye results








Here are a couple of the guns that I have done and despite the poor picture quality, you can see that they turned out quite black. The receivers are actually darker than some of the add on parts. All I did was immerse in hot water from the stove with rit dye for about three hours then rinse. Too easy!

The Grease Gun conversion kit is for sale by the way, with 3 mags too.
 

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SL8 Dye Job.

Looks decent but I would have gone with Duracoat for a "do-it-yourself job", you spent hard earned money on your system why not protect it properly instead of the "Ghetto Dye Job" . Nohting against you but I personally wouldn't have gone that way!
 

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Well, the way I see it, I made the weapon into something new, completely changing it, not just adding a fresh new cover to it so that it looks good to everyone else. A simple paint job, to me, is too much like that born-again girl from high school that started going to church to get her slate wiped clean each week. Accepted on the outside but the same old girl underneath.
 

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Looks good

I just heated water on the stove, poured water in a five gallon bucket, added rit dye, submersed for over night. Also helps to wrap the bucket with blankets(thermal blanket) and presto. Worked for me, of course its recommended to remove all metal parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well, I finally got some time (and dye) to do up my receiver over the past weekend. I used an old Coleman cooler w/a hinged lid. I boiled up enough water to just cover the receiver, mixed in the dye and submerged the receiver for 2.5 hours. I only added more boiling water once as when I opened the cooler, the water was still scalding hot...and plenty of steam. I believe that a cheap cooler is the way to go because it is well insulated and easy to dispose of the water when done w/o getting it all over the place.
 

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Looks decent but I would have gone with Duracoat for a "do-it-yourself job", you spent hard earned money on your system why not protect it properly instead of the "Ghetto Dye Job" . Nohting against you but I personally wouldn't have gone that way!
Hundreds of people have successfully used this dye system. Not one has had any failure when the directions are followed. It does not fade, peel, lighten or come off in any way. The worst result experienced is some purple shades when only black dye is used. Duracoat on the other hand is nothing more than paint. Due to the natural lubricity of the polymer material in the HK receiver, adhesion is an issue. Even on metal firearms, duracoat will scuff, chip and peel. On a plastic one, you don't have the easy solution of reblasting and recoating. There's absolutely nothing "ghetto" about going this route.
 

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+1 on the off-base "ghetto" comment. Paint will chip/scratch period, I don't care what type it is. The dye actually penetrates a bit and minor scuffs will stay black. It can be done with no tools, with no skill, with stuff you can pick up at Walmart, and yields great results. I think it is one of the nicer do-it-yourself benefits of the polymer gun.

Trust me, the plastic doesn't need any other protection besides semi-sensible handling. Duracoat is a fine product but isn't going to make that polymer last any longer
 

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Very interesting, I might have to try this. I'm curious though, in the pics the HK logo and also the Safe/Fire icons are still there. Did you paint them on afterwards, or find a way not to dye them?

Too bad no one posted a before then an after picture.
 
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