Hey BPman. I'm just curious why my VP9 has the weird "bump" issue mentioned in this thread. I'm fully aware that the VP9 can be considered a combat pistol but I don't think that's a valid excuse to compromise for a lousy trigger, especially with an HK. If you have a VP9, does it perform similarly to the trigger pull in the video I posted? I'd like to know for certain if my trigger isn't up to par before I try out Uncle Malice's mod.

 

I see you racking the slide with you hand sweeping the muzzle.

 

Sent via LRCT ( Long Range Coconut Telegraph )

 

Just now used a small square of 220-grit paper, followed by a bit of Flitz, and re-lubed with grease. Smoothed right up, pull weight about the same. Really more of evening out the finish than removing metal.

 

It's funny, when the VP9 first came out I went and held one. I loved the grip, but the trigger seemed heavy, so I decided not to get one. Then a guy had one at that range I go to and he let me shoot it. The trigger on his was amazing and was also stock. So I went out and bought an LE model VP9 and before I bought it tried the trigger and again it was great. I guess the moral of the story is if you can dry fire a VP9 or any gun for that matter to make sure the trigger feels like it should, do it before you buy it!

 

Mine is new and the trigger is awesome. Not like the video posted on the previous page.

 

Thanks for the helpful information guys. I just sent an email to HK's cs about the issue, I'll let you know what they say.

 

What would reshaping/removing that area of the disconnector do as far as affecting operation?

Essentially, doing something like this (or more):

 

Your picture is removing MUCH more material than necessary and it may affect engagement of the trigger bar with the sear activation lever. I would not recommend doing that. On mine it was just a sharp transition with a little bit of micro burr on it. So all I'm suggesting is to smooth and polish that transition. You don't need to grind it down like that.

 

No worries. I'm not a German engineer or a watchmaker, hence the question and photoshopped image before doing anything more than hand-polishing.

 

Just finished this on my VP9, and I can confirm that it makes a BIG difference in terms of the smoothness of the takeup. It feels a lot less staged and it is more smooth, and for some reason the takeup feels shorter. Just used 220 grit sandpaper and polished with 1000 grit sandpaper, didn't remove hardly any material at all. Just smoothed a bit of the edges and polished.

I'm very pleased with the results. OP, thanks so much for sharing!

 

Awesome! Glad it worked for you!

 

Thanks for the info and the pictures detailing the work you did! The trigger on my VP9 feels exactly as you describe all the way down to the very heavy trigger pull when the action is completely dry. It has smoothed out a bit after a few hundred rounds but really it doesn't seem to be getting any better anymore.

I have decided to try and do the same work to the disconnector as I believe this to be true cause of my problem as well but I am new to this kind of work. I have all the proper tools to perform a complete takedown and am confident in doing so for cleaning purposes, but I have never done any polishing work. What kind of stones did you use? Is it something I can accomplish with no prior experience? I decided to order a new disconnector to see if that fixes my issue and if it doesn't I was thinking of polishing the new disconnector as to not destroy the original.

Any additional information you could give on the polishing process or just tools used that would be greatly appreciated!

 

The stones I used were the small sharpening stone type. I started out with a small stone like this: http://amazon.com/BOYZ-TOYS-Outdoors-Sharpening-Stone/dp/B003YUFMC4/ I don't know if this is the exact same thing, but the size seems right. This did most of the hard work by just breaking the sharp angle on and giving it a slight but smooth radius.

After that, I actually used my triangle stones from my Spyderco Sharpmaker, finishing up with the fine ceramic stone. After that was done, I just used some polishing compound and a piece of cloth to shine it up fully. You could also use DMT or other diamond stones.

Yes, it's something anyone can do and it's very easy. Just don't use power tools because you won't need to remove much metal at all. you're just easing that transition and giving it some radius instead of a sharp angle. Do the brunt of the work with the more coarse stone and put it back together to see how it feels. You'll know if it's doing well, it might just be slightly gritty. Once you have that pressure/hump smoothed out you can take the part back out and finish polishing it up.

Good luck!

 

If you want a really nice file set for fine gunsmithing type work, I would recommend the Spyderco 400F Ceramic File Set. They come in a few different shapes and are fine grit ceramic that leaves a nice finish.
Available here for example: Spyderco Ceramic Sharpener from Knifeworks

Thanks for the help guys! You helped me narrow down the tools I needed. I installed the new disconnector tonight and it didn't make a difference at all. I didn't think it would because the angle was noticeably sharp it seemed as though it would yield the same results. So I went ahead and polished it down some and the trigger is buttery smooth now! I think I may have had to take off a bit more material than you to achieve the results I was after but it has not had any impact on performance.

 

If you want a really nice file set for fine gunsmithing type work, I would recommend the Spyderco 400F Ceramic File Set. They come in a few different shapes and are fine grit ceramic that leaves a nice finish.
Available here for example: Spyderco Ceramic Sharpener from Knifeworks

 

Great! Good luck! Since you already have a spare, not a huge risk in ruining one of the disconnectors, so have at it.

 

Just for reference to those of you who want HK to fix the trigger issue via warranty, they still haven't responded to my email inquiry. Has anyone else contacted them about it?

 

I can also confirm that this works, did it today with the same results as the op. I've handled a few vp9 pistols and noticed that some have the crunchy hump and some don't. Mine did, If yours does, this will eliminate it. Very clean pull straight back to the wall.

 

Is the VP40 prone to the same trigger issue? I just pick up a VP40 and the trigger has a great feel. I went to pick up a P30SK and after playing with the VP, I left with both.

 

My VP40 had a similar crunch to it when I bought it. I can say in my initial range sessions I don't think it affected my accuracy at all. More of an annoyance than anything. But being a little OCD at times, I watched the disconnector move and saw immediately where the issue was. I also read some other posts about it smoothing out after some rounds through the gun. Without training I AM NOT one to do any gunsmithing on my defense gun. However I cleaned the gun and noticed before lubing it that it was even more crunchy. Having worked with metal most of my life, I have seen what happens with metal on metal contact, so I tried the following:

Clean and dry disconnector with a snap cap. I say and dry fired my VP40 for about 2 hours while watching some shows. After this I cleaned the disconnector again and put a tiny drop of Breakfree. Metal on metal polishing worked excellent. While it may not be perfect, the crunch is all gone. As said earlier in this thread, stamped replacement parts can have tiny burrs and they will be noticeable.

My .02

Walter

 

^^^

My new VP9 was just like that but has smoothed out fairly well after 500+ rounds. Still not what I expected.

 

Does anyone have a trick for getting the elbow spring back into place?

 

My VP9 definitely has this "hump" and it drives me nuts. Ordering the disconnector replacement and the trigger return spring tool from HKParts now. Once I get them in I am going to polish the replacement and swap it out with the factory one.

Thanks for giving me a solution to this! Will follow up once I have done it.

 

Looks like I might have to undertake this self-fix. I sent mine in to HK with this same problem, and they said there was nothing wrong with it and sent it back. Once I got it back I took a closer look with a flashlight and definitely see where it's scraping right at the spot circled in the first post.

 

I think the trick is the Trigger return spring tool form HKParts.