Thats the scuddlebutt round here. Take pics of the bolt head markings and the top of carrier and i can tell you. Back plate may be marked HK underneath. Count the flutes in the chamber FOR ME ,PLEASE? And tell me how many rifling grooves there are. Sounds like a good one so far.
JLD Enterprises -- clarification question
For all you JLD gurus out there, I wanted to make sure I understand a few things before I make the jump to an actual NIB JLD rifle. First, for reference, the rifle is Serial# A21XX. It has the wide green handguard and supposedly had a plain 18" heavy barrel that at some time was threaded. With this in mind, if I understand everything correctly, may I assume the following:
1. This is an earlier rifle but one not so early that it has the potentila for a soft trunion;
2. It is early enough that it can fire all ammo types; and
3. It may have some German parts (how do you tell).
Am I missing anything important? Thoughts?
THANKS in advance!!!!!
1. This is an earlier rifle but one not so early that it has the potentila for a soft trunion;
2. It is early enough that it can fire all ammo types; and
3. It may have some German parts (how do you tell).
Am I missing anything important? Thoughts?
THANKS in advance!!!!!
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
If you will tell this Rookie for 91s how to count the flutes and rifling groves, I would be happy to do so. It will take me a couple of days to get over to m friends house to do it.Thats the scuddlebutt round here. Take pics of the bolt head markings and the top of carrier and i can tell you. Back plate may be marked HK underneath. Count the flutes in the chamber FOR ME ,PLEASE? And tell me how many rifling grooves there are. Sounds like a good one so far.
Thanks!
Just look thru the back of receiver down the barrel while holding a flashlight aiming down barrel from the muzzle and you will be able to count the Chamber flutes perfectly.You have to start from the 12oclock flute or the 6oclock flute and then go around and count how many.Rifling,just count the grooves from the throat or from the muzzle. Should be a WILSON barrel with 8 grooves like one of my other JLD,s.
Ok. Thanks, I will get to it this week.
Guarantee you're good to go with that rifle and serial number range.
The parts will be stamped. You're likely to mostly find FMP, which were manufactured with the HK tooling/equipment. Some HK marked parts are possible, but from what I've seen, that's generally just the backplate, as aforementioned, and the locking piece.
The heavy barrel is correct, and was originally target crowned. I'd just be sure the threading job was done well.
Verify the bolt gap measurement if able.
The parts will be stamped. You're likely to mostly find FMP, which were manufactured with the HK tooling/equipment. Some HK marked parts are possible, but from what I've seen, that's generally just the backplate, as aforementioned, and the locking piece.
The heavy barrel is correct, and was originally target crowned. I'd just be sure the threading job was done well.
Verify the bolt gap measurement if able.
I've got it at my home tonight to look at. I was told the threading job was done by Vector before they had all their problems. I'll try and take the MB off to look at the threads. As is, it does look straight and tight.Guarantee you're good to go with that rifle and serial number range.
The parts will be stamped. You're likely to mostly find FMP, which were manufactured with the HK tooling/equipment. Some HK marked parts are possible, but from what I've seen, that's generally just the backplate, as aforementioned, and the locking piece.
The heavy barrel is correct, and was originally target crowned. I'd just be sure the threading job was done well.
Verify the bolt gap measurement if able.
Here are the answers, assuming I did everything correctly.
1. 10 flutes
2. 8 groves
3. The threading looks straight and even. The crown looks uniform and flat with no issues
4. Bolt carrier group has "FMP 7/71
5. The bolt itself has P-1/04 on the top flat part and 34 on the part just on top of the left roller
6. The trigger assembly group is all metal. Towards the rear of the "S" on top is 196 with an "X" through it
7. Green furniture
8. Has an H&K bayonet that Vector parkerized that looks brand new.
Thoughts, concerns, suggestions, value?
THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!
1. 10 flutes
2. 8 groves
3. The threading looks straight and even. The crown looks uniform and flat with no issues
4. Bolt carrier group has "FMP 7/71
5. The bolt itself has P-1/04 on the top flat part and 34 on the part just on top of the left roller
6. The trigger assembly group is all metal. Towards the rear of the "S" on top is 196 with an "X" through it
7. Green furniture
8. Has an H&K bayonet that Vector parkerized that looks brand new.
Thoughts, concerns, suggestions, value?
THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!
You are good to go, you have a pakistani bolt head POF and a portugese carrier. Barrel is as I said.These are good builds.mine is an #A51** jld enterprises.
So, I now can't get the rifle back together. T bolt carrier is in (rollers properly taken care of) and ten trigger group in with the wholes for the pins lined up perfectly. But, I can not figure out how to get th buttstock to slide over the trigger group. Suggesion would be appreciated. I can not believe plow hard this gun is o sssemble vs. an AR or even a SIG 556. Sigh.......
It takes some getting used to, but is a breeze after you've been doing it a while. 
The backplate is a very precise fit. I generally just make sure the entire lower is pushed forward and up as far as it can possibly be, and start by putting the bottom edge of the backplate just over that part of the lower that extends back, then sort of lifting up/tilting forward...side to side twist as well if need be. Just look at all sides as you try pushing it on, as everything pretty much needs to be exact.
It's amusing how seemingly difficult reassembly can be until you get the hang of it, or something finally goes into place. It's like, F***K, now why was that so difficult?
I've certainly had my fair share of trials early on with the locking piece/bolt assembly, as well as getting the stock back on.
Just keep working at it, and don't force anything.
The backplate is a very precise fit. I generally just make sure the entire lower is pushed forward and up as far as it can possibly be, and start by putting the bottom edge of the backplate just over that part of the lower that extends back, then sort of lifting up/tilting forward...side to side twist as well if need be. Just look at all sides as you try pushing it on, as everything pretty much needs to be exact.
It's amusing how seemingly difficult reassembly can be until you get the hang of it, or something finally goes into place. It's like, F***K, now why was that so difficult?
I've certainly had my fair share of trials early on with the locking piece/bolt assembly, as well as getting the stock back on.
Just keep working at it, and don't force anything.
You can see these guys hassle with trying to get it back on, heh. Not the best vids by any means - just came up with a quick google search while trying to find something visual for you.
Stripping/reassembly of a G3 style rifle - YouTube
G3 disassembly/reassembly - YouTube
Stripping/reassembly of a G3 style rifle - YouTube
G3 disassembly/reassembly - YouTube
UR,
Got her together. Thanks!!!!! I took a little rolling action and she slipped right together.
Got her together. Thanks!!!!! I took a little rolling action and she slipped right together.
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
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